MUSLIMS OF RAINAWARI HELP IN REPAIRS OF OLD SHIVA TEMPLE

"Mr Parvaiz from Asian Age is coming today to see how Our muslim brethern from Rainawari are actually helping us in repairs of the old and historic shiva temple . Can you come over for half an hour ?" said a voice on the phone to me . It was Mr Bushan lal jalaji orginally a resident of Rainawari now associated with newly formed Shiv Ji temple Welfare committee Rainawari .

I was tempted to join him. In this Shiva Temple ( BOAD MANDHAR ), i had spent many memorable evenings sitting on the steps leading to the canal Ghat ( MAAR )and watching shikara laden tourist going to Nageen lake . Women , men . young girls and boys sitting on small roofless boats called DEMB NAAV would paddle their way with vegetable , household items or weeds of Dal Lake . Some would say "MEEMI Salaam " to women tourists in Shikaras . My friends from Rainawari especially Mohd Yaqoob Mir , Zahoor Shair ,Neelamber Mattoo ,Autar Krishen Jalali, Ashok Kaw and many more were always there sitting on steps of the Canal Ghat . we would also look at the beauty of the house owned by a Mattoo family just opposite the temple . Our seniors would tell us that the movie Ek Musaafir Ek Haseena was shot in this area only . In fact Joy Mukerjee had also visited the temple and given 100 rupee note to the pujari of the temple in those days.The water in the canal ( MAAR )near the temple was neat and clean at that time . I learnt my swimming in this canal ( MAAR ) only . Later i also saw Gopi nath Ji, noted singer, singing kashmiri songs and Bhajans in the temple compound in his Melodious voice. A good number of his listeners were local muslims .Pandit Pitamber Nath Ji ( Pitah Kaak )used to teach Bhahgwat Geeta to girls and and boys in one of the rooms of the temple. Muslim Boys would join the Janam Ashtami Celebrations of this temple .The inside walls of the temple had exquisite painted images of Shiva in various poses of TANDAVA. I was once told by late Sh Predimen Krishen Wattal of Rainawari that he personally saw Lata Mangeshkar visiting the temple on her way to Nageen lake ( in a Shikara) . Late Sh Sri Kanth kak ( I A S ) the then controller Tawaza and Director Tourism had also confirmed to me that V S Naipaul had also visited this temple in early sixties when he stayed in kashmir for about 6 months. In fact his novel cum Travelogue AREA OF DARKNESS is full about stories connected with this area of the city .Naipaul had met Kak Sahib twice for renewal of some permit of the House Boat owner from Dal Lake wherein he was staying . Kak sahib was younger brother of Late Radha krishen Kak Senior Journalist and special correspondent Indian Express. They lived in Naidyaar area of Rainawari and later Radha Krishen Ji had shiifted to Residency Road Quarters mostly occupied by Journalists in those days . My friend Aijaz ahmed had his wood Carving Shop cum showroom a little opposite the temple near the Jogi lanker bridge ( Gh Hassan And Sons, Manufacturers and Exporters of Quality Walnut Wood Carving Items ) .Rainawari had a pluralistic Society with residents well intermixed and interdependent sharing joys and sorrows of each another .

The temple gates have been opened after a gap of 20 long years . Mr Bushan lal Jalali , Mr Kishore Mattoo , Mr Maharaj Krishen Pandita , Mr B L chowdhary assisted by local Muslims of Rainawari are determined to put the temple in shape .

" Now that these young men from Rainawari have taken it to themselves to bring the old glory back to this temple , we shall help them in all possible ways " said Bashir Ahmed a local resident .

"We shall not allow them to stop the repairs work . The temple has to come to old glory " said Mohd subhan a shopkeeper of Rainawari.

"I also see that the labourers do their work sincerely as these Pandit brethern are employed and can not come daily to supervise the work. I have told them that they can come at their will. Inshallah old glory shall come to Rainawari."

said another shopkeeper .

" With the cooperation and support of our Muslim brethern from Rainawari , we believe that we shall complete the extensive repairs to this temple complex before the snow fall . Frankly speaking local shopkeepers are giving us liberal credit but they are to be repaid . we have acute shortage of funds. Donations from Pandits in srinagar are insufficient . We have opened an acount in SBI under no 30854632231 under the name and style of Shiv Ji Temple welfare committee Rainawari. We are now requesting every old resident of rainawari to help us out in this cause .I am personally thankful to the Muslim brethern of this area for their support . See for yourself how Happy they feel to see the repairs work progressing ." said Mr Busan lal Jalali an old resident of Rainawari and presently associated with this Temple welfare committee. Enjoy the views of this old temple undergoing repairs at present .

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PAHALGHAM VIEWS AND FARUGH FARROKHZOD

In one of my posts , while commenting on the poetry of Pakistani poetess Parveen Shakir , I had also introduced a name Farrugh Farrokhzod . This lady from Iran was a terrific poetess. Very Sensitive, Modern and like Parveen Shakir, essentially writing on issues concerning women , their hopes , desires , expectations , male domination and pain and anguish in love . I believe that even when you Put barriers of race , religion ,culture , language or forms of governance ; Nothing stops good thoughts to travel. They fly like birds of free sky. Good thought are like bottle loads of perfume thrown in air . Can any one put the morning breeze in boundaries ? The intellect demands Liberty of thought and communication with fellow Human beings . It pierces the steel gates and ignites fires in glaciers . It boldly declares that none can stop it from passionate engagement with humanity . Humanity, that is free of the divisions of race , religion or colour.

My purpose to write above lines was to build a background for introduction of FARUGH FARROKHZOD renowned Iranian Film maker and Poetess . Like Albert camus , she too died in a car accident in Tehran in 1967 at a very young age .Born to a Military officer , she was married to Perviz Shahpour an acclaimed theatre personality of Iran and the marriage lasted only two years. I read some of her poems in translation from original Persian . The translations are by Farzanah Milani and Girdhard Tikku. Faiz wrote on her death and so did Pablo Neruda write a poem on her death.Ali Sardar Jafri too had some meetings with this great modern poetess of Iran. For you to enjoy i have uploaded some lines from her two poems .In one of her poems she she lodges a protest with Poetry . Here go the lines

O Poetry - blood thirsty Goddess .

You seem quite oblivious of the sufferings you have inflicted

Upon your followers .

Once you had instilled your love in them,

You tore them apart from every thing .

Other than two tearful eyes ,

WHAT HAVE YOU LEFT OF ME ?

In another poem concerning a woman's expectations and male demands she adds

He wants wine and bidding kisses from me ,

How can i deny his waiting lips ?

He thinks of pleasure alone ,

Unaware of my search for the eternal,

I want from him sincerity of love

to sacrifice my whole existence .

So Today this great poetess from Iran along with some views of the valley of shephards known as Pahalgham. Pahalgham is a hill station of kashmir about 85 kms from srinagar city .Lidder river flows through this picturesque hill resort . Perched in the lap dense pine forests , Pahalgham is the base camp for annual Amar Nath Pilgrimage . Two valleys , very beautiful and capitivating are close by to this station . one known as ARU and the other as BETAAB valley . While ARU is about 12 kms from Pahalgham , BETAAB is just 7 kms on CHANDANWARI road .River rafting , horse rides and trekking in lower Himalays are other attractions of this hill resort..

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REYMBARA OF SHOPIAN AND NAZIR AKBARABAADI

.

                                 

PEOPLE'S POET ...NAZIR AKBARABAADI. (1735-1830)
...
Aashiq Kaho Aseer Kaho aagray Ka Hai..
.Mullaa Kaho Dabeer Kaho Aagray Ka hai ....
Muflis Kaho Faqeer Kaho Aagray Ka hai ...
Shayaar Kaho Nazir Kaho Aagray Ka Hai ...
......,.
He loved . lived and died in Agra( Taajganj ).

.A sample of his Dohas is a sunder :-


Kook karoon to jag hansey
Chhu ke laage gaav..
Aissay kathin sneh ko
Kiss vidhi karoo upaav.
Jo me aissa jaanati
Preet kiye dukh hoye
Nagar dindoraa peetati
Preet na keeje koye..
Dil chaahe dildaar ko
Tan chaahe aaraam
Duvidhaa mein dovoo gaye
Maaya mili na Raam..
Virah aag tan mein lagi
Jaran lage sab gaat
Naari chhoovat vaid ke
Parray fafolay haathh..
Neh Nagar ki reet hai
Tan mun dehoo khoye
Preet dagar jab pag rakhaa
Honee ho so hoye.


And Nazir Akbarabaadi writes about Guru Nanak Dev Ji..


Dukh Dard Mein Apnay Dhyaan Lagaa
Jis waqt Guru Ka Naam Liyaa
Pal Beech Guru ne Aan Unhein
Khush-haal Kiyaa aur Thhaam Liya
Iss Baksheesh Ke Iss Azmat ke
Hain Baba Nanak Shaahe Guru
Sab sees Navaa Ardaas Karo
Hardam Bolo Sab Vaahe Guru 


In is Poem "Mussadas Kareema" , Nazir writes ...


Sada Dil Mein Aey Momin e Paakbaaz
Vuzoo Kar Ke Parr Panj Vaqti Nimaaz
Ba waqt e Munaajaat Ba Sad Niyaaz
Yeh Keh Apne Haathhon Ko Kar Ke Daraaz
"kareema e Bakshaaye bar Haal maan
Ki hastam Aseer e Qamandhe Hawaa "


In his poem "Ganesh Ji Ki Astuti " Nazir writes ..


Ek Dant Ko Jo dekha Kya Khoob Hai Bahaar
Iss par Hazaar Chand ki Shobhaa Ko Daaloon Vaar
Inn Ke Gunaanuvaad Ka Hai Kuchh Nahin Shumaar
Har waqt Dil mein Aataa hai apnay yehi Vichaar
Har Aan Dhyaan Keejiye Sumiran Ganesh Ji
Deveingay Ridh sidh aur Ann Dhan Ganesh ji 


Some lines from his poem Banjara-naama ..


Tuk Hirso Hawa ko Chhod Miyaan
Mut Des Bides Phire Maara
Qazaak Azal Kaa Lootey Hai
Din Raat Bajaa Kar Naqaara
Kya Bagiyaa, Bains ,Bhael ,Shutur
Kya Goune Palla Sar Bhaara
Kya Gainhoon, Chaaval, Moth ,Matter
Kya Aag, Dhuvaan, Aur Angaara
Sab Thaath Pada Reh Jaavega
Jab Laad Chalegaa Banjaara......
.
On Idd ul Fitr Nazir writes:-

Rozon ki Sakhtiyon me na hotey agar Aseer
Tau Aisee Eid ki Na Khushi Hotee Dilpizeer
Sab Shaad hain Gadhaa se lagaa Shah Ta wazir
Dekha jo Hum ne Khoob to Sach hai Miyaan nazir
Aisee na Shab Baraat na Bakr Eid ki Khushi
Jaisi Har Ek Dil Ko Hai Iss Eid Ki Khushi.


Nazir wrote a beautiful poem of Baal leela or Childhood of Sri Krishna...I quote some lines..


Taareef Karoon Ab Mein Kya kya
Us Murlee Adhar Bajaiyaa ki
Nit Seva Kunj Firayaa ki
Aur Bun Bun Gavoo Chareyaa ki
Gopal, Bihari , Banwaari
Dukh Harna Mehr Kareyaa ki
Girdhari Sunder Shyaam Baran
Aur Haldhar Joo Ke Bhaiyaa ki
Yeh Leela hai Us Nand Lalan
Manmohan jasumati Chhaiyaa ki
Rakh Dhyaan Suno Dhandout Karo
Jai Bolo Krishen Kanhhaya ki..


Nazir was born in the year 1735. Around this time, Naadir shah had started his plunder and attacks on Delhi . .Ahmed Shah Abdaali also attacked and ransacked Delhi thrice ( 1748,1751and 1756 ). Fed up with this loot and plunder , Nazir's family shifted to Agra permanently and lived in Taaj Ganj. He was proficient in Urdu , Persian , Punjabi , Maarwari , Purbi and Hindi . For most of his life he did nothing except teaching six sons of Lala Vilaas Ram of Agra wherefrom he got 13 rupees per month as his salary for many years . He spent his life with this income only. Nawab Saaadat Ali Khan of Lucknow and the Nawab of Bharatpur repeatedly requested Nazir to shift from Agra but this simple man was content with an income of just 13 rupees per month . Nazir wrote for all. He wrote for children , youth , old people and women. He wrote for hindus , Muslims and Sikhs
Nazir wrote poems on Eid, Deepawali, Shab e Baraat, Holi, Mahadev ji , Sri Krishen Bal Leela, and Muharram..


Nazir was a people's poet. Read him and you find him a master who knows the art of representing pain with a smile and wit: .

I have also uploaded  some views  Reymbara stream  flowing near Shopian as well as a  view of the Ziyarat of Sheikh Noor ud din or Nund Ryosh at Chowgam . This  Reymbara  stream has nothing to do with Veshav which originates from Kounser Naag . Reymbara is the name of the river straem  below shopian area and originating from Pir Panjal hills .At  present , the Mughal road under construction , passes through this area. Some elderly men of Shopian as well as some old Pandits of of Bijbihara call this river as Vaitarani . Dr Vaid kumari Ghai also confirms this in her translation of Nilamata Purana ( see Page 36 Volume I ), Alas , this river is also drying up . 

( Avtar Mota )

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MAKHDOOM'S POEM CHAARAGAR ( HEALER )

PADDY HARVESTING IN KASHMIR

( Photographs  Avtar Mota  )

“Here in this room we had a meeting .Makhdoom came in with many progressive writers of Kashmir and outlined the purpose and issues involved in establishing and strengthening the progressive writers movement . He was fiery , radical and always anti establishment in his words . He was restless and would change postures as he sat or talked. His fingers involuntarily moved towards his hair. He had Sheer Chaay ( Salted tea Taken by Kashmiris )prepared by my Aunt and asked for TELVORU ( Locally baked bread ). Down to earth . Simple but fiery and restless .”

This is how Mr Mujoo , my friend’s uncle described Makhdoom Mohi Ud Din’s visit to his house in Rainawari Srinagar. Makhdoom instantly fell in love with Kashmir and its beauty and got touched by the prevailing poverty . Makhdoom , the fiery poet of Hyderbad wrote
Hayat Le ke Chalo , Qaynaat Le ke Chalo
Chalo to Saare Zamaane ko Sath Le ke Chalo.

( Carry the life alongwith you,
Carry the entire universe along with you,
Should you move ,
Learn to carry everybody with you .)

During college days we had formed a cultural council known as BAZME ADAB headed by the noted Kashmiri poet Prof Ghulam  Nabi Firaq . Some times late Prof Hajini or late Hari Krishen Koul noted Kashmiri short story writer would also drop in . Other members of this council were Iqbal Fahim, Nazir Fida , Altaf Hussain , Rafiq Raaz and many others who i don't remember at this moment .  The discussions in Bazme Adab  usually centred  around Makhdoom , Faiz and Majaz .we lost track of each other after our college days as all moved in different fields and directions.

“He was a Naxalite ” one amongst us would say.

“He was profound in thought and had a unique style ” another would say .

“ He had no appreciation for beauty. He was a dry man ”another would add.

In spite of disagreement with his political belief , Makhdoom had created interest in
every thinker in the country with his revolutionary songs. To Urdu language he did what
Nazrul Islam had earlier done to Bengali. Both enriched the language with their fiery
diction and style. As a matter of fact Makhdoom went ahead when he wrote

Ye Jung Hai Junge Aazaadi
Aazadi Ke Parcham Tale .

( This is the war of independence ,
Independence of the Myriad souls,
Under the Flag of freedom. )

He rose in revolt against the NIZAM and later became the leading light of the TELENGANA movement .
Having read his poetry ,I brush aside the arguments put forth by many that Makhdoom was not a lover of beauty or was not touched by it. I may disagree with his political thought but I have yet to find the deep romantic sensibilities in any other poem as Makhdoom put forth in his poem Charagar  ( Healer ).

(Chara gar )

Ek chambeli ke mandvey   talay

Mai-Qadey se zara duur us mod par

Do Badan Pyaar ki Aag mein jal gaye…….

Pyaar harf-e-wafa

Pyaar un ka khudaa

Pyaar un ki chitaa

Do Badan..

Ouss mein bheegte, chaandni mein nahaate huey

Jaise do taaza ro taaza dam phool pichhley pahar

Thandi thandi subak ro chaman ki hawaa

Sarfe Maatam huyee.

Kaali kaali laton se lipat garm rukhsaar par

Ek Pal ke liye ruk Gayee……….

Hum ne Dekhaa unhein

Din mein aur raat mein

Noor-o-zulmaat mein

Masjidon ke minaaron ne dekha unhein

Mandiron ke kiwaadon ne dekha unhein

Mai Qadey ki dararon ne dekha unhein

Az Azal taa Abad

Ye bataa chara -gar

Teri  zambeel mein

Nuskha-e-keemiyaa-e-mohabbat bhi hai?????

Kuch Ilaaj-o- Madaawaa-e-ulfat bhi hai?????

Ek chambeli ke mandvey talay

Mai-Qadey se zara duur us mod par

Do Badan

Chara gar!..................

( Makhdoom Mohi Ud Din )

 (Healer)

,

Under the Jasmine  adorned support,

A little away from  the tavern,

 on that turn of the Path ,

Two Bodies  lost in the flames of  love .

Love ! A word of faithfulness .

Love !Their god at the moment .

Love ! let it be their Pyre .

Two Bodies .

 Bathing in Moonlight ,

Drenched  in the  dew ,

Like two new flowers at morning time ,

The Cool gentle breeze of  the garden

stumbled in grief,

Meandering itself through the black  tresses ,

hung around  for a moment on the warm cheeks .

We saw them

In the daybreak and in the hours of darkness,

In rapture and in anguish

The mosque's minarets saw them

The temple doors saw them ,

And the splintered ramparts of the tavern saw them,

From the creation to the end of this world  ,

O Healer ! Let me know ,

Does your Box  of remedies  

Contain something like the concoction of love?

Has it  any cure  for the love-sick?

Under the Jasmine  adorned support,

A little away from  the tavern,

On that turn of the Path ,

Two bodies,

Healer!..................

( Translation from original Urdu by Avtar  Mota )

This poem was picturised in a movie CHA CHA CHA with Iqbal Qureshi rendering it to an immortal film song . Noted film Direcotor Muzaffer Ali used his another poem Aap Ki Yaad Aati Rahi Raat Bhar (Throughout the night your memory kept visiting me ) and converted the lines to a beautiful film song . Such poetry only emerges once the poet has a passionate engagement with humanity and love for joys and sorrows of life. Kudos to a group from Hyderbad consisting of Jayanthi Alam , Lakshmi DeviRaj , Mohd Zia Ud Din Ahmed and Mazhar Mehdi for forming ALAM KHUNDMIRI FOUNDATION and organizing centenary celebrations of this great son of the soil from Andhra . Individuals should similarly step in when governments fail to honour heroes . Makhdoom too died unsung. Enjoy a small poem Apna Shehr ( Our City ) by Makhdoom Mohi Ud din along with 5 fresh views of Paddy harvesting in Kashmir . The views were captured at Khrew just below the Jwala Ji Temle on 02.10.2009. This poem in blank verse is an All time relevant master piece .

Apna Shehr

Ye Shehr Apnaa Ajab Shehr hai ,
Ke raaton ko Sarak pe Chaliye Tau,
Sargoshiyaan si Kartaa hai.
Bulaa ke Zakhm Dikhaata hai ,
Raaze dil Ki Tarah .
Dareeche Bundh ,
Galii Chupp,
Nidhaal Deewarein ,
Gharon Mein Mayattein Thehri Huyee Hain Barson Se
Kiraaye Par _____ !

( Makhdoom Mohi Ud din )

Our City

This our Strange city ,
Whispers to me at night ,
When I walk on its Roads ,
Yells me to see her bleeding wounds ,
So as to Open the secrets of its Heart,
With its windows shut ,
Silent Alleys ,
Lifeless and tired walls ,
Houses with Locked doors ,
God !why have thee put corpses
in these rented houses for all these years .
( Translation from original urdu by a k mota )

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AHARBAL WATER FALL OF KASHMIR

AHARBAL WATERFALL OF KASHMIR

I have been to Aharbal many times. The first time was as a college boy, with friends and a packed lunch and far too much noise. The last time was in 2009. Between those years the road changed, the parking changed, the tea stalls multiplied, but the fall itself never did. It still roars the same way. It still throws mist into your face and dares you to come closer.

Of all the places to see in Kashmir, Aharbal stays with you. Not because it is the highest or the grandest, but because it feels alive. 

The Fall and the River

Aharbal is about 76 kilometres from Srinagar if you take the shorter route via Pulwama and Shopian. The other route is through Khanabal and Kulgam, roughly 95 kilometres. From Shopian town, it is another 16 kilometres to the site. 

The waterfall is created by the River Veshaw, also mentioned  in Sanskrit texts as Vishnupaad. The Veshaw begins at the high-altitude Kounser Nag Lake, a glacial lake that Kashmiri pilgrims have associated with Lord Vishnu for centuries. From Kungwattan, the river gathers force and drops 24.4 metres  at Aharbal before continuing down to join the Jhelum, or Vitasta, at Sangam near Bijbehara Bridge.

What many visitors do not notice at once is that there are two falls. The main fall is the 24.4-metre drop that everyone photographs. About 50 metres downstream,  there is a second fall, around 7 metres high. It is smaller, but in monsoon it is just as furious. The sound of both together, with the spray rising like smoke, is what people mean when they say Aharbal is "horribly beautiful". Horrible in the old sense of the word: it inspires awe and a little fear.

The geology here matters. The Veshaw cuts through soft Karewa soil and harder rock. That is why the gorge is deep and narrow, and why the water has such power. Government surveys have noted that Aharbal has a potential of about 100 MW of hydroelectric generation. For a power-starved state, that number has been discussed for decades. 

 Memory, Tragedy, and Caution

I remember my school days when we heard a sad and tragic news about death of two students  at Aharbal . They had come on an excursion organised by the organised by the University of Kashmir.  A Muslim  girl slipped near the edge. A Kashmiri Pandit  boy jumped in after her. Neither came out. 

I was reminded of it again in 2009 when I last visited. I spoke to Ghulam Hassan, a casual employee with the Aharbal Development Authority. He has worked there for years. He told me, plainly, that accidents still happen every year. People climb past the fencing to get "the perfect photo". The mist makes the rocks slick. The current below is not forgiving.

There are now 100 well-laid steps from the car parking spot  down to the main viewpoint, with railings. There are designated view spots. But water does not negotiate. If you go to Aharbal, go with respect. Stand back. Listen.

The People and the Place

The Aharbal area is being developed steadily by the Aharbal Development Authority. When I first went, there was one Dhaba and a dirt track. By 2009 there were small restaurants, wooden huts for night stays, tea stalls, and proper parking. Work continues.

The villages around are inhabited mostly by  Gujjar and Pahari-speaking communities, with  some Kashmiri speaking families living in and around as well. In summer,  you will see Bakarwals with their sheep. In winter the place empties and the fall half-freezes at the edges. The silence then is different , heavier.

Hospitality is simple. You will be offered Noon chai, Rajma-chawal, and directions that involve "turn left at the big pine". People know the river. They know when it will rise. 

The Road to History: Mughal Road and Bafliyaz

Just 3 kilometres from Shopian town, near Chowgam village, a road branches off towards Bafliyaz in Poonch district of Jammu . This is the old Mughal Road.  I have been familiar with the name Bafliyaz since school. Krishen Chander, the renowned Urdu writer of the subcontinent has mentioned  this area in his novels . He has mentioned Bafliyaz  in his  short stories as well  . For a boy reading in Srinagar, that name linked literature to a real place on a map.

The Mughal Road is about 75 kilometres long, connecting Shopian to Bafliyaz. Mughal emperors used this route to enter Kashmir. Armies used it too. In 1819 AD, the Sikh army of Maharaja Ranjit Singh marched through here from Lahore, defeated the Afghans of Kabul, and took control of Kashmir. A pitched battle was fought in Shopian town itself.

Near Chowgam stands the Ziyarat of Sheikh Nur-ud-Din, revered as Alamdar-e-Kashmir, the Patron Saint of Kashmir. It is said he meditated in these hills. People from the surrounding villages visit this Ziarat  especially on Thursdays.  The Mughal Road is now  fully open and upgraded, Aharbal now sits  on a corridor that connects the Valley to the Pir Panjal and beyond. 

Visiting Notes of 2009 

A few practical things, because people always ask:

Best time: April to October. In spring the Veshaw is full from snowmelt. In autumn the surrounding forests turn gold. Winter visits are possible but the steps ice over.

Stay: The Development Authority huts and a few private guesthouses are available. Book ahead in peak season. 

Food: Local dhabas serve Kashmiri and simple North Indian food. Try the Harisa in Shopian town on the way back.

What to carry: A raincoat or windcheater. The mist will soak you in ten minutes. Good shoes. Do not rely on phone signal.

Respect: Do not litter. Do not cross fences. This is not just advice. It is what the place demands.

I have seen Aharbal in a student group, with family, alone with a notebook, and last in 2009 with a friend who kept saying "just one more photo". Each time it gave me something different. Once it gave me grief. Once it gave me quiet. Once it gave me that line from Nadim stuck in my head for days. Aharbal does not belong to any one story. It belongs to the Gujjar shepherd, to the tourist from Delhi, to the college student, and to the engineer who dreams of 100 MW. If you go, do not rush. Sit for an hour. Let the roar get into you. Then, when you leave, you will carry a little of that fury and a little of that calm with you.

                                                                   

Why Aharbal Feels Different

Kashmir has many waterfalls. But Aharbal is not tucked away like a secret. It is accessible, loud, and public. That is why families come, why students come, why poets come. There is a Kashmiri idea that water is not just scenery. It is character. It shapes temperament. The Veshaw at Aharbal is restless. It does not meander. It breaks, it falls, it remakes itself.  That is perhaps why the lines of Dina Nath Nadim feel so right here. Nadim, one of the great voices of modern Kashmiri poetry, wrote about youth, change, and responsibility. Standing at Aharbal, you understand what he meant.

"Tse Naar Chhuk Aalaav Chhuk,  

Tse Yaavnuk Jalaav Chhuk.  

Tse Neir Koh Te Van Tsatith,  

Toofaan Tul Toofaan Bun.  

Tse Mir e Karwaan Bun,  

Kashiri Paasbaan Bun."

(You are fire and fury,  

You are the flame of young hearts.  

You break through mountains and forests,  

And carve your own path.  

 Bring change, and lead that change,  

 For you are the guide of Kashmir’s caravan.  

Be the protector of Kashmir too.)

( Avar Mota )

 

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LONELINESS REFLECTED THROUGH NIGHT VIEWS OF KASHMIR

Raat Soyee Hai Le Ke Sanaata,

Aey Ghame Dil Zaraa sa Aahistaa.

Neend waalon ne Kis ko Chaaha hai ,

Chaahne waala kabh Balaa Soyaa .

so gaya hoga Siachin pe Jawaan

Aey mere dil tu kyon nahin soyaa .

The Night sleeps in total silence ,

come slowly o thee my Heart Pain.

Never have they been in love who sleep in siilence this moment,

Did a lover ever sleep? tell me my heart ?

Even a sepoy on siachin Glacier must have slept this moment ,

what keeps thee awake my heart ?

CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
Based on a work at http:\\autarmota.blogspot.com.

RATTAN RANI HOSPITAL - A HERITAGE INSTITUTION OF KASHMIR

I had made good company with my father till I cleared my middle school examination. He was my constant companion. I believed every word he spoke to me . I thought perhaps he was the most informed person on the earth to feed my quest for knowledge as the world gradually had started opening up to me . He introduced me to the poetry of Allama Iqbal and his kashmiri connections . later my quest for scientific knowledge and logic brought me close to my maternal Uncle Janki Nath Tiku an accomplished Engineer by profession.He also taught me excellent mathematics , Physics and broadened my outlook for seeking any and every knowledge . He himself had good exposure to modern world as he had done his AMIE Degree in Mumbai and did some initial job in that city as well. He would talk about sharing food and accommodation in Shere punjab Hotel with Ali Sardar jafri , Sahir and others. I had gradually started withdrawing from my father 's close company and would spend more time in my maternal uncle's house . My Mama read The illustrated weekly edited by khushwant singh and the weekly Nwespaper Blitz published from Mumbai while father would subscribe to Indian Express only. But Quite often in the company of my father I would walk from Rainawari to Habba kadal area where his sister lived and he would relate stories about shops and Buildings on our route . This kept me still drawn towards him even when i spent more time at my Mama's house . One such story that he related was about Rattan Rani Hospital. Care to listen and here it goes .

                                    

            (Dr Omkar Nath Thussu) 

                        (Dr Rattan Rani )
 

Dr Omkar Nath Thussu had a roaring medical practice in Srinagar city prior to 1947. He had a good wife Rattan Rani by name who bore him four children . Rattan Rani was a devotee of Ragnya Goddess and would frequently visit Kheer Bhawani shrine. One Saturday , along with her family , she went to Tulamulla in a Doonga . The family stayed for the night atop a Halwai’s shop who would always cook food for them when they were in Kheer Bhawani.A devastating fire engulfed the Halwai’s shop and the entire shopping area at Tulamula . Rattan Rani and her four children including a toddler perished in this blaze . The doctor Luckily survived  as he was not with them that particular day . When he came to know about this tragedy, he was in total shock for many many  days. This tragic incidentt  changed the doctor completely. He shifted his total focus to free service to poor  and needy kashmiris by establishing a hospital in 1942 at Barbar Shah Srinagar ( presently Known as Nai Sarak )in the name of his deceased wife . The Hospital came to be known as Rattan Rani Hospital . Dr Omkar Nath ji worked as a physician and a surgeon in this hospital with a group of some dedicated kashmiris to assist him in this Noble cause. Pandits and Muslims would queue outside the hospital for free treatment . He would come late to his house for sleeping only and begin his day at 7.30 AM and end his work at 11.30 PM. This hard work started telling upon his health. Add to this he continued to remain silent and lost at his residence, lesser and lesser attending get togethers in the family . To make him a little cheerful the family started putting pressure on him for a remarriage . A proposal from influential and well connected ATAL Family of Lahore ( Old kashmiri Pandits who had migrated out during Pathan rule ) with explicit consent of Dr. Jagat Mohini MBBS from King Edward medical college Lahore was finally approved on a clear understanding that Jagat Mohini shall not seek material comforts and shall join hands with Dr Thussu in treating poor Kashmiris in the valley. The Atal family had connections with Pandit ji, Maulana Azad and even Sir sikander Hayat Khan close advisor to Quaid Azam Mohd Ali Jinnah. ( as per an An article by Mr Zahir Ud Din in a local news Paper Rising Kashmir in its edition dated 21st august 2009 ) Jagat Mohini proved and rose beyond expectations to stand by her commitment. She quickly learnt kashmiri. She went far ahead of Dr Thussu in ameliorating the pain and suffering in Kashmir especially for the helpless poor kashmiri women hailing from Pandit and Muslim community . For this she earned the affection and a nickname Mummy . Some called her Florence Nightingale of kashmir while some compared her with Mother Teresa . She stood like a rock in the valley till her death serving poor and helpless women . Alas this great lady died unsung in Kashmir on 14th June 2009.

I had the privilege to meet Dr Jagat Mohini ji several times and she continued to remain gracious, active and kind till her last breath. I know for certain that a good number of poor Pandit and Muslim women living around her hospital , got themselves operated upon by her only, quite often free. She opened knitting and embroidery centres for women. She opened a Nursing school which provided livelihood to many local women. The hospital was visited by me on 30.09.2009 when I had to visit the area for some official work . Her son Sh Ashok ji who had settled in Delhi doing good business has decided to pack up and live in Srinagar with his wife smt Promila ji. They live in the Dingy Hospital building only. Ashok ji has plans to Upgrade the present Hospital to a state of Art Medical institution and join the family tradition of serving kashmiris. He has two daughters who are well settled and married happily. 

Shri G M Bawan adds on my Facebook post:

 "  Dr Jagat Mohini was a candidate in 1977/83 elections where she was hurt by a stone pelter  but in spite of that she fought to the last. She served people tirelessly. Dr Onkar Nath was a great man .He and Kanhaya lal Koul advocate from Baramullah had become members of Kashmir Cultural Forum formed by P N Bazaz"

Dr Tamesh Tamiri adds on my Facebook post :

"  Dr.Thussu and poet Abdul Ahad  Azad had an association that went beyond doctor-patient relationship.They shared commonality of ideas and believed in philosophy of MN Roy, a Marxist turned humanist. Dr.K N Tiku, a relation of Dr.Thussu, poet Azad, Kanhaya Lal  Kaul, S L Yacha, Pitamber Nath   Dhar  Fani, J N Sathu,P N Bazaz, Mir Abdul Aziz, A S Yatuoo,Dr.Padam Nath  Ganjoo, Nand Lal  Wattal,  and many more  were part of a group of the group called Royists. It was Kanhaya  Lal  Kaul who introduced P N Bazaz to Roy's ideas "

(Auvar Mota )

PS

Mama means mother's brother in kashmiri language also. . Photographs have been taken by me from Hindu High school compound in Sheetal Nath . Sh Ashok Ji son of Dr jagat Mohini has also been photographed . some photographs have poor resolution on account of the fact that my camera got a little bit damaged as it slipped from my hand in lal chowk Area . It has been given to one Mr Bashir Prop Bashir and Co in Abi Guzar area who runs the only repairs shop for cameras in the valley .

CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
Based on a work at http:\\autarmota.blogspot