Friday, September 11, 2026

FROM COTTON FLOWER TO CLOTH : LAL-VAAKH PAINTED ON PASHMINA CLOTH BY ARTIST MASOOD HUSSAIN



                                          


FROM   COTTON FLOWER TO CLOTH :  LAL-VAAKH  PAINTED ON PASHMINA CLOTH BY ARTIST MASOOD HUSSAIN 


Vaakh in Kashmiri 


“Lall ba draayas kapas poshi sazchiyi

Kaed ta dhoonei karnam yetchie lath

Tuyi yeli kharnam zaviji tuye 

Vovir vaana gayam alaainz lath

Dhoeb yeli chhaavnas dhoebi kaeni pyathai 

Saz ta saaban mazchnam yetchie

Sietch yeli firnam hanie hanie kaatchie

Adha lall me praavim param gath”  


Translation 


(I, Lalla, set forth into the world,

hoping to bloom like a cotton flower.

But the cleaner and the carder struck me with harsh blows.

Spun into fine thread, I was stretched upon the weaver’s loom.

Then the washerman beat me upon the stone

and scoured me again and again with soap.

At last, when the tailor cut me, piece by piece,

only then did I attain the highest state.)



Commentary on the Vaakh


Lalla Ded’s image of cotton passing through carding, spinning, weaving, washing and cutting is a profound allegory of spiritual transformation. Read through Kashmir Śaiva Tantra, the Vaakh describes the progressive removal of contraction, Mala ( impurities ), which conceals the innate freedom of consciousness. The seeker is not acquiring divinity from outside. She is being stripped of everything that prevents recognition of what she already is. A particularly relevant Śiva Sūtra is 3.28: “Dānam ātmajñānam”, true giving is knowledge of the Self. Lalla’s cotton must surrender every earlier form before it can become something fit for a higher purpose. Tantra similarly understands Sādhana as the disciplined refinement of body, breath, mind and awareness until limited individuality yields to Śiva consciousness. Vedānta reads the same process as the erosion of Avidyā, ignorance, and Ahaṃkāra, ego consciousness. The carder’s blows are discrimination, Viveka; the loom is disciplined concentration; the washerman’s stone is repeated purification; and the tailor’s cutting is the final severance of false identification with name and form. Lalla’s “highest state”, therefore, is not reward after suffering. It is recognition after refinement. What is destroyed is not the Self, but everything mistakenly taken to be the Self.


Commentary on the Painting 


The artist transforms Lalla Ded’s metaphor of cotton into a powerful visual meditation on spiritual refinement. The loom occupies the centre like a sacred field of Sādhana, spiritual discipline. Its multitude of vertical threads suggests consciousness passing through restraint, tension and ordered transformation. Cotton is no longer merely material. It becomes the individual self undergoing purification before attaining its subtler form.

The subdued earth colours, ochres, browns, faded gold and touches of blue create an atmosphere at once ancient and contemplative. The surrounding manuscript fragments suggest inherited memory and scriptural tradition, while the luminous gold around the loom introduces the presence of Prakāśa, the self revealing light of consciousness in Kashmir Śaivism. Blue, appearing within the structure, evokes depth, interiority and the infinite. Tantrically, the loom may be read as the field of Śakti, where apparently separate strands are drawn into unity. Each thread retains its individuality yet participates in a larger pattern, recalling the Śaiva vision in which multiplicity is not separate from Śiva.

The painting thus gives visual form to Lalla’s spiritual insight. The blows, stretching, washing and cutting of cotton become stages in the removal of Mala, impurity. The finished fabric signifies Pratyabhijñā, recognition. Nothing new is created. Consciousness simply recognises its own original freedom.

Behind the taut warp of the loom, the silhouette of Lal Ded appears veiled yet luminous. She is the cotton flower that set forth to bloom, now stretched into thread, enduring beating and spinning. Her calm profile transforms craft into pilgrimage, from raw blossom to refined cloth, from embodied self to liberated consciousness.


( Avtar Mota )




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CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
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Thursday, September 10, 2026

LAL DED : VAAKHS IN SILENCE : TWENTY PAINTINGS BY MASOOD HUSSAIN

                                        
                     
           
                                     

                                       
  
   
                   
 
LAL DED : VAKHS IN SILENCE

(Vakhs Painted on Pashmina by Masood Hussain)


MAQAM, the People Craft Place at Rajbagh opposite Convent School in Srinagar, invites you to a first of its kind exhibition. Titled Lal Ded: Vakhs in Silence, where Lal Ded's timeless words become colour and Pashmina becomes poetry, this is an exhibition of hand painted Pashmina shawls by noted artist Masood Hussain, inspired by the Vakhs of Lal Ded, the fourteenth century saint poetess of Kashmir 


The show is on view from 7 to 14 September, 11 AM to 6 PM daily at MAQAM, Rajbagh, Srinagar. Masood Hussain's paintings bring together colour, memory and the poetry of Kashmir, transforming the words of Lal Ded into a unique visual language on Pashmina. It is an exhibition celebrating Kashmir's poetry, art and living craft traditions, presented under the banner of Art Poetry Craft Kashmir.


I have perused, beheld and internalised the spirit and the philosophical profundity of the entire corpus of twenty paintings by Masood Hussain, having translated the Vakhs into English and having exegeted these remarkable works in the light of Kashmir's glorious Shaiva Darshana, the Shiva Sutras, the Upanishads and the Tantras. For this reason alone, I possess a close, comprehensive and intimate cognizance of this oeuvre, unique in all respects.


Masood Hussain, a noted artist from Kashmir whose life work has been an unwavering chronicle of the valley, its people, its loss and its resilience, has here moved from testimony to metaphysics. For years his canvases recorded  grief and everyday endurance. For the first time he has painted twenty Lal Vakhs, the mystical four line verses of the fourteenth century poet Lal Ded, upon Pashmina shawls. Twenty shawls, two years of labour, as he himself has noted at the opening of this show at MAQAM.


The idea itself is radical and deeply apt. Pashmina is not a neutral support like canvas or paper. It is the very skin of Kashmiri culture, woven memory, labour, sanctity and survival. For centuries the shawl has been prized for its warmth and fine needlework. By choosing Pashmina as his pictorial field, Hussain performs an act of cultural reclamation. The Vaakh, which for six hundred years survived as voice, as oral breath before it was ever written down, is returned to cloth, to the body, to wearing. A shawl becomes a scripture. A scripture becomes wearable. The artist has rightly noted that painting on Pashmina offers a novel dimension alongside traditional weaving and embroidery, and may open new ideas to boost the local handicraft industry towards international fashion exhibitions. But the achievement here at Rajbagh is far beyond craft innovation. It is philosophical.


Masood Hussain presents Lal Ded not as an abstracted icon nor as a blurred syncretic figure, but as a Kashmiri  woman in pheran and Taranga, the traditional long headgear . This is a conscious historical retrieval. Lal Ded was born near Srinagar in a Pandit family, suffered in her marital home, left at twenty six to become an itinerant mystic . Her Vakhs, from Sanskrit Vaak meaning sacred speech, are among the earliest compositions in Kashmiri and the foundation of its literary tradition. To clothe her again in the attire of her birth is to restore her to her source in Trika Shaivism while retaining her universality. In painting after painting she appears, white veiled, sometimes seated in meditative equipoise before fire, sometimes standing upon a lotus crossing the blue ocean of existence, sometimes as a solitary witness at the edge of the void. She is never decorative. She is the experiencing consciousness itself. What unifies the twenty works at MAQAM is a highly disciplined and symbolic use of colour, which never remains ornamental. Colour becomes doctrine, a chromatic theology.


Blue in its many registers, indigo, turquoise, cobalt and ultramarine, dominates the corpus as the chromatic analogue of Chit, pure consciousness. It is at once sky, lake, Bhavsagara and inner ether. In the Vaakh of the royal swan that has fallen silent, blue becomes the lake of samsara through which the soul must navigate. In the Vaakh of the burning lake of anger, blue becomes the field of containment where wakefulness dawns. In the Vaakh of the fragile boat, blue becomes the immeasurable ocean of worldly existence that the soul must cross with a thread. Red and saffron, vermilion, ochre and deep maroon, carry the energy of Shakti, of Tapas, of karmic agitation and of transformative heat. The womb mandala painting that interprets die before you die pulses with red splashes that signify mala, the first contractions of ego that must be offered in inner sacrifice. The painting of lust, anger and avarice uses sharp reds for desire that has become serpentine and must be starved not by force but by withdrawal of attention. White and gold carry the grammar of transcendence. White is the untouched Atman, the ever pure self described in the Chandogya Upanishad. Gold is Prakasha, self luminous revelation. In the painting of Onkar, where Lal Ded sets her mortal frame aflame with the fire of Om, gold traces nadis like constellations, halos and mandalas ascending from red fires of purification into cooler blues of inward stillness. In the painting of regeneration, where mind becomes ever new after the great cosmic flood, gold frames the lake of consciousness that overflows, rises to sky and empties into nothingness. Green and yellow appear as renewal after dissolution. The flower garden or bagh Vaakh, where the seeker prepares herself and enters to behold her own essential form, is rendered in emerald hills strewn with white blossoms, the rupture in indigo sky pouring white light as the veil of limitation breaks.


The strength of the exhibition lies in how each shawl  sustains philosophical precision while remaining visual poetry. From the twenty Vakhs, Masood Hussain extracts a complete spiritual biography. There is  forgetfulness, the royal swan that once sang in freedom and has fallen silent, the mill that has halted, the grain taken away, a meditation on death consciousness that sharpens ethics. The painting shows Lal Ded as witness beside the white swan of original splendour, a memento mori in the corner, lotus rising after ego death. We move to remembrance, the pledge made in the womb, Caitanyam Atma of Shiva Sutra, consciousness prior to identity. Here the shawl becomes a womb mandala in white gold, red marks pulsing within like karma that must be surrendered.


We ascend through Mantra Sadhana, where Om is mastered and six paths are abandoned for the seventh, the hidden way, a clear allusion to the ascent through inner centres into Prakasha Sthana, the abode of light. Hussain paints seven forms of Lal Ded before seven fires, each fire Tapas, each halo a rising state of consciousness.


We witness purification through the allegory of cotton, carding, spinning, weaving, washing and cutting, a perfect visual analogue for removal of mala until Pratyabhijna dawns. The loom sits at centre like a field of Shakti where separate threads retain individuality yet participate in one pattern. We then enter cosmology, where the Lord pervades earth, breath and unstruck sound, rendered as a yantra with a fiery orange red Bindu pulsating in infinite blue, and where measurement itself becomes bondage.


Midway, the exhibition turns ethical. Three gates of ruin, kama, krodha and lobha, are shown not as moral slogans but as contracted expressions of consciousness that must be starved by restraint, the central form gathering stillness while serpents coil at the margins. Purity is then affirmed as innate, Siva Svabhava, ever pure, crossing the ocean of existence unstained like a lotus. The celestial horse Vaakh follows, where Lal Ded rides from heaven to heaven beneath constellations and finds no end to the Lord's power, ending in neither name nor form, where fractured planes of ochre, violet and crimson show the self distributed beyond outline.


Later paintings deepen into ontology. The lake that brims three times and empties seven times, seen between Harmukh and Kounsarnag, becomes a map of Spanda, the pulse of creation, sustenance and dissolution, and of Satisara, the ancient lake of Kashmir as origin, with seven circles as seven emptyings into Shunya. The Vaakh of five, ten and eleven, the most enigmatic, is rendered with rope as metaphor for integration, where scattered powers are gathered back into unity, Lal Ded as witness formed partly from manuscript text, eye vigilant. The flower garden, the burning well of anger weighed and found weightless upon the scales of reason, the hoopoe piercing timber till all poems speak one truth, the whiff of fresh air when three gunas are crossed and meditation becomes ecstasy, the crossing of Shunya where reason falls away and the lotus blooms like Lalla pamposh, the eternal return where Shiva creates and dissolves and creates again, the paradox of colourless Lord who colours the world with many hues yet remains without attribute, and finally the fragile boat dragged by loosely spun thread across the sea while life seeps like water from an unbaked cup, tiny boat almost helpless within blue infinity.


Throughout, texture is crucial. Surfaces are distressed, torn, layered with manuscript, abraded, as if time itself has laboured upon them. This is not affectation. It enacts Sadhana, the labour of purification.  The torn openings, the webbed forms, the serpentine loops, all suggest that the world is not rejected but recognised as manifestation of Shiva.


The use of Nastaliq script alongside the imagery, as noted by critics, is itself a curatorial act of bridge building. It restores Lal Ded to both Pandit and Muslim memory, reaffirming her as the  great mother of Kashmiris , the composite consciousness of the Valley.  It is perhaps the first time a contemporary painter has attempted to translate the philosophical nuance of  Kashmir's Shaiva Darshana into textile art.


Masood Hussain has therefore achieved something rare in contemporary Indian art. He has not illustrated Lal Ded. He has transcreated her. In giving her Vakhs a home on Pashmina at MAQAM, Rajbagh, from 7 to 14 September, he has given Kashmir back a portable shrine, where word becomes image, image becomes textile, and textile becomes contemplation. For a region often defined externally by militancy , this exhibition at Rajbagh offers a profound counter memory, that Kashmir was and remains a seat of luminous Shaiva thought, where a woman mystic could declare herself Shiva and be embraced by all.


I happen to be in the US these days and miss this great event. My best wishes to the team especially  Mujtaba  Qadri and Masood Hussain . Friends,  do visit this exhibition. The shawls at MAQAM are not merely to be seen. They are to be circumambulated.



( Avtar Mota )                            

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Based on a work at http:\\autarmota.blogspot.com\.

Wednesday, September 9, 2026

MY SHORT STORY : THE EPISTEMOLOGY OF INSTANT KARMA

                                          



The Epistemology of Instant Karma


Derek, an emblem of contemporary professional rationality, was deputed to Chicago for official engagement. He was accommodated in a four star hotel whose composure invited a suspension of ordinary judgement. The silence, the immaculate linen, the city refracted through glass, engendered a sense of elevation. He recalled his friend Paul, who had valorised the collection of minute hotel luxuries, soaps and grooming ephemera, as evidence of entitlement.


In the marbled bathroom the proposition materialised. Upon the vanity lay a miniature shaving assemblage, two perfumed soaps and diminutive phials of shampoo and bodywash, designated complimentary. In a gesture both trivial and revealing, Derek reserved his own toiletries and transferred the hotel provisions into his luggage. He mistook appropriation for prudence.


Upon return to Dallas the denouement unfolded with unembellished logic. He arranged his acquisitions with curatorial pride and then sought his own leather case containing three new razors, shaving gel and after shave lotion. It was absent. Memory restored the image instantly. He had abandoned it upon the same marble ledge that he had denuded.


What transfixed him was not loss but immediacy. Consequence had not been deferred to a metaphysical future. It had been synchronous. The world had not adjudicated, it had responded. Existence functions as a reciprocal field returning precisely the intentionality invested in it. To grasp is to be rendered graspable. Freedom persists not in accumulation but in conscious participation within a pattern that never bargains.


Contemporaneously arose within him an older metaphysic articulated upon a battlefield discourse between the charioteer and the confused warrior , that action must be discharged without attachment to its fruit. Desire driven action enchains, action performed in equanimity liberates. Derek preserved the pilfered soaps thereafter untouched. They became not commodities but axioms.


( Avtar Mota )



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CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
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MIRZA GHALIB, THE VEIL ,AND THE REALITY






MIRZA  GHALIB, THE VEIL ,AND THE REALITY 


"Bekhudi besabab nahin Ghalib

Kuchh to hai jis ki parda-daari hai"


(O Ghalib, this self forgetfulness is not without cause,

There is surely something whose veiling is being kept.)


What Does Ghalib  Convey in the Light of Yog Vasishtha and Upanishads ?


This couplet of Mirza Ghalib holds within it the entire philosophy of veil and reality, of forgetting and remembering, which the sages of India have called Avidya and Maya, and which Ghalib calls parda daari. Bekhudi is not mere intoxication. In Ghalib's lexicon it is the state where the small self, the limited Ahamkara, becomes absent. The poet says this absence is not causeless. If the ego has slipped away, it is because something else has demanded its absence. Something so luminous, so intense, so total that the eye cannot bear to see it directly and so the mind arranges a veil. This is precisely the position of Vedanta. The Upanishads declare that the Self is ever present but is covered. The Katha Upanishad says:


"Na samparaye pratibhati balam pramadyantam vittamohena mudham"


This world and the next does not shine forth for the childish who are intoxicated and deluded by wealth.…... (Katha Upanishad 1.2.6 )


And then in the same Upanishad, the method of veiling is explained:


"Paranchi khani vyatrinat svayambhu tasmat paran pashyati nantaratman"


The self existent Lord pierced the senses outward, therefore one looks outward, not within....( Katha Upanishad 2.1.1).


Ghalib's parda daari is this outward piercing. The senses are made to look away because what is inside is too formidable to behold without preparation. Yog Vasishtha, which is the most poetic and most psychological of Vedantic texts, speaks again and again about this veil as Chitta or Sankalpa. Sage Vasishtha tells Sri Rama:


"Chittam eva hi samsaro raga adi klesha samyutam

Tad eva ashuddham samsarah shuddham moksha iti smritam." 


(The mind itself is samsara, together with attachment and affliction. That same mind, impure, is bondage, pure, it is called liberation.) .....(Yog Vasishtha 3.4.15)


Elsewhere Vasishtha is even closer to Ghalib:


"Drishtim jnanamayim kritva pashyed brahmamayam jagat"

Having made the vision full of knowledge, one should see the world as full of Brahman. .)....(Yog Vasishtha 3.4.19)


What Ghalib calls bekhudi, Vasishtha calls the moment when Drishti, ordinary perception, collapses. Why does it collapse without cause. Vasishtha answers, because the world you see is not the world that is. There is a parda.


"Mana eva manushyanam karanam bandha mokshayoh

Bandhaya vishayasaktam muktaye nirvishayam smritam"


(Mind alone is the cause of bondage and liberation for humans. Attached to objects it is bondage, free from objects it is liberation. )


Ghalib intuits this. His bekhudi is nirvishaya mind. It has become free from objects not by effort but because some greater attraction has pulled it. What is that something. Kuchh to hai. That indeterminate something is the central pointer of the Upanishads. They refuse to name it as a thing, for to name it would make it an object. The Brihadaranyaka Upanishad says:


"Yatra hi dvaitam iva bhavati tad itara itaram pashyati"

(Where there is duality as it were, there one sees another.).....( Brihadaranyaka Upanishad 4.3.31)


When that duality disappears, what remains cannot be called something in the ordinary sense. Yet Ghalib says kuchh to hai. The Upanishads say neti neti, not this, not this, and still affirm asti, it is.


"Tat tvam asi, " "That thou art. " .....(Chandogya Upanishad 6.8.7)


"Aham Brahmasmi," " I am Brahman.".... (Brihadaranyaka Upanishad 1.4.10)


"Prajnanam Brahma, " " Consciousness is Brahman." ...( Aitareya Upanishad 3.3)


"Satyam Jnanam Anantam Brahma," " Brahman is Truth, Knowledge, Infinite. " ...(Taittiriya Upanishad 2.1.1)


That kuchh is Sat, pure being, which veils itself by its own power. Yog Vasishtha explains this self veiling with extraordinary beauty:


"Yatha tarange kalalam yatha vahnau visphulingakah

Tatha aham ityadirupam chiti sphurati chitsvayam"


(As ripples in water, as sparks in fire, so the notion of I and so on flashes forth in consciousness by itself. )....(Yog Vasishtha 3.9.32)


And then:


"Jagat sarvam idam drishyam ajnanat svapnavat bhavet

Jnanat brahmamayam shantam iti prajna vidam matam" 

(All this visible world, through ignorance, becomes like a dream. Through knowledge, it is seen as tranquil and full of Brahman. This is the view of the wise. )...(Yog Vasishtha 3.11.7)


Parda daari therefore is not deception by another. It is self concealment. The Ishavasya Upanishad states it directly:


"Hiranmayena patrena satyasyapihitam mukham"

(The face of truth is covered by a golden vessel.) .....(Ishavasya Upanishad Verse 15)


Gold is luminous. The veil is not darkness but too much light. Bekhudi happens when the golden vessel shines so strongly that the eyes close.

Thus Ghalib's couplet becomes a perfect summary of Vedantic epistemology. The jiva experiences bekhudi, a loss of limited self awareness. Reason says this cannot be causeless. There must be a cause. The cause is not in the world of cause and effect. It is that which stands behind the veil and holds the veil in place, out of compassion, so that the unprepared mind is not burnt. That is bekhudi. And Ghalib, like a Rishi, does not claim to know what is behind the veil. He only affirms with utter certainty, "kuchh to hai" . Something is. That affirmation is "Shraddha" , which is the beginning of all inquiry in Vedanta.


( Avtar Mota )


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CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
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Tuesday, September 8, 2026

WHY MEXICAN FOOD FEELS SO CLOSE TO INDIAN FOOD

                 
                                           

                                             



 


                                             

                               


Why Mexican Food Feels So Close to Indian Food

I have always liked Mexican food once I am away from India. It makes me feel comfortable. Although some Turkish vegetarian dishes like Baba Ganoush made with roasted aubergine remains my preference, Mexican food is the one that feels like home when home is far.

If you have ever sat down for tacos after growing up on rotis you will know the strange comfort that comes with Mexican food. For many Indians living  across the United States,  Mexican food is the first foreign cuisine that does not feel foreign. The reason is not a coincidence. The two culinary traditions share history, ingredients, technique and philosophy.

A Shared History of Spice

Both India and Mexico sit at the crossroads of ancient trade. Long before Europe understood chilli, Mexico was cultivating it. When the Spanish and Portuguese explorers reached the Americas in the sixteenth century,  they carried Mexican chillies, tomatoes, and corn to the rest of the world, including India. In return they brought back spices that had reached Europe from India such as black pepper, cinnamon, cloves and coriander. The Columbian Exchange essentially married the two pantries. That is why the spice shelf in a Mexican kitchen looks remarkably similar to that in an Indian kitchen. Cumin which we call Jeera, coriander or Dhania, cinnamon, cloves and dried red chillies form the base of both cuisines. Mexican mole and Indian curry are both complex sauces built by toasting and grinding many spices together.

The Logic of Heat and Balance

In both cultures spice is not meant to simply burn. It is meant to create layers of flavour. Indian cooking tempers spices in hot oil in a process called Tadka. Mexican cooking does something very similar by frying chillies, garlic and onion in oil to create a sofrito. Both then build depth with tomatoes and onions. Both understand that heat needs balance. In India , we use yoghurt, Raita or Chutney to cool the palate. In Mexico,  they use crema, guacamole, lime and fresh coriander which they call cilantro. The pairing of a hot main with a cool and acidic side is identical. Whenever I miss Indian heat, a plate of enchiladas with a spoon of cool crema gives me that same sense of balance that I find in a bowl of curd rice with pickle.

Corn and Its Place

Corn deserves special attention because it explains much of the kinship. In Mexico corn is sacred. In India corn or makka is a staple across Punjab, Rajasthan, Gujarat and the Himalayan regions. The uses are strikingly similar. Here is how corn appears in both worlds.

1. Flatbreads. Makki ki roti in Punjab is conceptually identical to a corn tortilla in Mexico. Both are unleavened breads made from corn dough, cooked on a hot griddle called a Tawa in India and a Comal in Mexico.

2. Roasted street corn. In India we call it Bhutta, roasted over coal and rubbed with lime, salt and chilli. In Mexico it is Elote, roasted and dressed with lime, salt, chilli, cheese and mayonnaise.

3. Corn with cheese. Makki with grated paneer or cheese in the hills mirrors Mexican esquites where corn kernels are sauteed with cheese and spices.

4. Corn dough snacks. Indian corn Pakoras and Mexican Tamales both use corn flour batter mixed with spices, herbs or fillings and then steamed or fried.

5. Corn as animal feed and ritual. In both agrarian cultures corn stalks are used for cattle and corn is offered in harvest festivals, such as Makar Sankranti in India and Dia de la Cosecha traditions in rural Mexico.

This shared reliance on corn gives both cuisines a similar texture and earthiness that wheat based European cuisines do not have.

The Pulse and Grain Combination

Nutritionists have long praised the combination of a grain plus a pulse. India perfected it with Roti and Daal, rice and Sambar, or Chawal and Rajma. Mexico perfected it with tortilla and refried beans, rice and black beans. Both pairings provide complete protein. Both are born from farming communities that needed affordable and sustaining food. Both are served with pickled onions, whether it is Sirka Pyaz in India or Encurtidos in Mexico.

Vegetarian Traditions and Family Style Eating

Both countries have deep vegetarian roots. While Mexico is known for meat, its pre colonial diet was largely vegetarian, based on corn, beans, squash and chillies. Indian vegetarianism is well known. Even when meat is used both cuisines use it as a flavouring rather than the centrepiece, cutting it small and stewing it slowly so that a little goes a long way. The Thaali and the Mexican Comida Corrida are both served as a spread of many small bowls meant for sharing. Eating is a family activity where tortillas or Rotis are used to scoop rather than forks and knives.

Slow Cooking and Earth Ovens

Technique also unites them. Both cultures use slow braising. Dum cooking in India where a pot is sealed with dough and cooked on low heat is much like barbacoa where meat is wrapped in agave leaves and cooked slowly in an underground pit. The Tandoor and the Mexican Horno are both clay ovens heated with wood. Both produce smoky breads and meats with charred edges.

The Freshness Factor

Finally both Mexican and Indian cuisines worship freshness. Coriander leaves, green chillies, lime, raw onion and tomato are added at the end in both. A curry is not finished without chopped coriander and a squeeze of lime. A Taco is not finished without cilantro, chopped white onion and lime. That bright lift at the end is the same instinct.

In essence Mexican and Indian food are like distant cousins who grew up on different continents but learned the same values from their grandparents. They respect spice, they honour the grain and the pulse, they celebrate corn, they balance heat with coolness and they cook for community. That is why an Indian who has just landed in  the US , can walk into a Taqueria  and instantly feel at home.

( Avtar Mota )



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CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
Based on a work at http:\\autarmota.blogspot.com\.

Monday, September 7, 2026

FULL DAY VISIT TO BILTMORE ESTATE IN ASHEVILLE ,NORTH CAROLINA

                                        
                                              




                            





    

Biltmore Estate America's Largest Private Home


We woke early at our cosy Airbnb accommodation in Leicester just outside Asheville. After a quick home cooked breakfast we packed our pre booked tickets water and comfortable shoes and set off by car. The drive to Biltmore Estate was only twenty minutes along winding country lanes past small farms craft barns and autumn coloured woodland glowing in morning light. Soon the famous three mile approach road designed by Frederick Law Olmsted began leading from wild forest into formal parkland. At the gate our tickets were scanned we parked near the house and saw the limestone façade rising above the gardens feeling excited to arrive.
                                        

Biltmore Estate in the Blue Ridge Mountains outside Asheville in North Carolina is not simply a house. It is the most complete symbol of America's Gilded Age, a period when vast industrial wealth was expressed through European grandeur and a belief in land stewardship.


The Vanderbilt Family

                                             
                                            
                                       







The story of Biltmore belongs to the Vanderbilt family. The name comes from the Dutch Van der Bilt meaning from De Bilt. The dynasty was founded by Cornelius Vanderbilt known as The Commodore. He began with a single boat on Staten Island and went on to build an empire in shipping and railroads. At his death in 1877 he was the richest American of his time with a fortune of more than one hundred million dollars.

His son William Henry Vanderbilt doubled that fortune. William had eight children. The youngest was George Washington Vanderbilt the Second who lived from 1862 to 1914. George was unlike his brothers. While his brothers built grand mansions on Fifth Avenue in New York and elaborate summer cottages in Newport in Rhode Island, George was quiet, intellectual and scholarly. He was a voracious reader, a serious art collector and was fluent in eight languages. He was less interested in business and more interested in books, art and science.


In 1898 three years after Biltmore was completed George married Edith Stuyvesant Dresser. Their only child Cornelia Stuyvesant Vanderbilt was born in the house itself in 1900. George died suddenly in 1914 after an appendectomy at the age of fifty one.


The Vanderbilt fortune declined because it was never protected by a family trust like the Rockefellers. Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt died in 1877 worth over one hundred million dollars, more than the US Treasury then. His son William split it between eight children, and by the third generation there were over forty heirs sharing the same money. They spent lavishly on ten mansions on Fifth Avenue, The Breakers, Marble House and the two hundred and fifty room Biltmore Estate, all of which were later demolished or turned into museums. Income tax from nineteen thirteen, heavy estate taxes, expensive divorces and marriages to European aristocracy finished what was left, so by the family reunion in nineteen seventy three there were one hundred and twenty descendants and not one millionaire.


The present heirs number more than two hundred. The only branch that kept wealth is the Biltmore branch in Asheville, owned through The Biltmore Company by William A V Cecil Junior and his sister Diana Cecil Pickering, both great grandchildren of George Washington Vanderbilt the Second who built Biltmore. Other well known descendants include Anderson Cooper, son of Gloria Vanderbilt, screenwriter James Vanderbilt, and the Duke of Marlborough through Consuelo Vanderbilt.

Profession and Fortune

( The Grand Central New York was originally built by Vanderbilt family)


The Vanderbilt profession was transportation. Cornelius controlled the New York Central Railroad and major shipping lines. George Washington Vanderbilt the Second did not run the railroad day to day. He inherited around ten million dollars from his father in 1885 which is equivalent to around three hundred million dollars today and lived as a gentleman, philanthropist, patron of the arts and scientific farmer. He used his fortune to realise a vision rather than to enlarge it.


The Idea to Build


In 1888 George was twenty six. He was travelling with his mother to Asheville because mountain air was prescribed for respiratory illness. He was captivated by the climate, the beauty and the views of Pisgah Mountain.

His idea was far larger than a big house. It had three parts. First a rural retreat where he could escape New York society in the manner of the great estates of England and France. Second a showcase for architecture and conservation. Much of the land he bought was overlogged and eroded farmland and he wanted to prove that private wealth could restore it. Third a self supporting working estate.

To achieve this he employed two of the most famous men in America. Architect Richard Morris Hunt was the first American to study at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris and the architect of New York high society. Landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted was the designer of Central Park in New York and the father of American landscape architecture.

Hunt designed a French Renaissance chateau modelled on the Chateau de Blois in the Loire Valley. Olmsted designed not only formal gardens but the management of the forest. He created America's first scientifically managed forest. The man hired to run it Gifford Pinchot later became the first chief of the United States Forest Service.

Construction began in 1889. It took six years, a workforce of around one thousand men and a private railway spur built simply to bring materials to the site. The house was formally opened on Christmas Eve 1895 with a grand banquet in the Banquet Hall which is seventy two feet long.


Scale and Numbers


At its largest the estate was vast. Original acreage was one hundred and twenty five thousand acres or about one hundred and ninety five square miles. George bought it parcel by parcel through agents to keep prices low. Current acreage is approximately eight thousand acres which still makes it one of the largest private holdings on the East Coast. Edith Vanderbilt sold eighty seven thousand acres to the federal government after George's death and that land became Pisgah National Forest.

                                      









                                   










The house itself covers one hundred and seventy five thousand square feet or four acres of floor space. It is officially America's largest privately owned home.


It contains two hundred and fifty rooms including thirty five bedrooms for family and guests, forty three bathrooms which was an extraordinary luxury in 1895, sixty six servants bedrooms with twenty six in the main house and forty in the stable complex, sixty five fireplaces, sixteen chimneys. The Banquet Hall is forty two by seventy two feet and seventy feet high with a forty foot table that seats sixty four guests. The Tapestry Gallery is ninety feet long.


For its time it was technologically advanced. It had forced air heating, central clocks, fire alarms, a call bell system, an electric Otis lift and its own dynamo producing electricity from its opening in 1895 due to Vanderbilt's friendship with Thomas Edison. It had a refrigeration plant that could make ice.


Servants and Staff


Running Biltmore required a small village. In George and Edith's time the house had dozens of live in staff including butlers, footmen, housemaids, kitchen staff and laundry maids. The estate also employed foresters, farmers, gardeners, stablemen and dairy workers.









Today The Biltmore Company employs approximately two thousand three hundred people in Buncombe County and the surrounding counties including curators, conservators, gardeners, winemakers, hotel staff and guides. During Gilded Age dinners the ratio of staff to guests was often two to one.


Artefacts and Collections


Biltmore is a museum preserved as it was lived in. George was a serious collector.











The house holds original furnishings and antique furniture from the sixteenth to nineteenth centuries, a library of more than twenty two thousand books in eight languages with two secret doors hidden in bookcases, thousands of works of art including paintings by Pierre Auguste Renoir, John Singer Sargent and James McNeill Whistler, a famous collection of Flemish tapestries in the Tapestry Gallery and Banquet Hall, Napoleon's chess set and a Louis the Fifteenth settee, a nineteen sixteen Skinner pipe organ in the Banquet Hall, an indoor swimming pool which was never properly heated and so was too cold to use, a bowling alley and an enormous basement kitchen complex, and the Halloween Room where guests on New Year's Eve 1895 were invited to paint stories on the walls.


A team of twenty highly skilled curators, conservators and collections managers preserve these treasures and often clean them with a toothbrush.


Facilities Then and Now


Originally the estate was designed to be self sufficient with a dairy farm, poultry farm, market gardens, an arboretum and a village built for workers and their families just outside the main gate. That village is now known as Biltmore Village and was designed by Richard Sharpe Smith.


Today Biltmore has grown into a major hospitality enterprise while remaining private. It now includes Antler Hill Village which features the award winning Winery which is the most visited winery in America, Antler Hill Farm, shops and restaurants. For overnight stays there is the four star Inn on Biltmore Estate and the Village Hotel and private cottages. There is an Equestrian Centre with miles of trails. The gardens cover seventy five acres of landscaped gardens including the four acre Walled Garden, Rose Garden, Italian Garden and Olmsted's three mile Approach Road. The Deer Park covers two hundred and fifty acres. The estate welcomes more than one million visitors each year.


Importantly Biltmore receives no governmental funding or grants which makes it one of the most significant National Historic Landmarks in the United States preserved solely through private funding.


Who Owns It Now


Biltmore has never been sold outside the family. After George's death Edith and Cornelia managed it. Cornelia married British aristocrat John Francis Amherst Cecil and they had two sons, Cornelius Vanderbilt Cecil and William Amherst Vanderbilt Cecil who lived from 1928 to 2017.


William Amherst Vanderbilt Cecil is credited with saving Biltmore. Edith had already opened it to the public in 1930 to generate income and create jobs during the Great Depression. William took over The Biltmore Company in 1960, added parking, restrooms and cheerful tour guides and turned it into a profitable visitor attraction. The family turned its first profit in 1969 and that profit was seventeen dollars.


Today The Biltmore Company is owned by the Cecil family and operated by his son President and Chief Executive William Amherst Vanderbilt Cecil Junior and his daughter Dini Cecil Pickering. His brother George Henry Vanderbilt Cecil formed the separate company Biltmore Farms in 1979. So it remains family owned by George Vanderbilt's grandson and great grandchildren.


Annual collection and expenses at Biltmore

The Biltmore Company is private so full accounts are not public but in 2016 the company reported about 207 million dollars revenue and recent analyst estimates place it between 200 million and 300 million dollars per year now. About 1.4 million guests visit annually. Income is almost entirely self generated. House admission provides the largest share at 70 to 90 dollars per adult with timed upgrades, rooftop and behind the scenes tours adding 35 dollars each. Hotels are the second pillar with the Inn on Biltmore Estate with 210 rooms and Village Hotel with 209 rooms running 300 to 600 dollars per night and 80 percent occupancy at peak. Then come ten restaurants, the winery which produces 150,000 cases a year, retail shops, equestrian activities, weddings and brand licensing. Expenses are huge. More than 2,400 staff, continuous preservation of the 250 room mansion built in 1895, garden upkeep, insurance, utilities and taxes. As the family motto says we do not preserve Biltmore to make a profit we make a profit to preserve Biltmore. 

CNN Broadcaster Anderson Cooper

( Anderson Cooper )


Anderson Cooper is a Vanderbilt. His mother was Gloria Vanderbilt who lived from 1924 to 2019, the famous fashion designer, heiress and socialite. Gloria was the daughter of Reginald Claypoole Vanderbilt. George Washington Vanderbilt the Second and Reginald were both grandsons of William Henry Vanderbilt and great grandsons of Cornelius Vanderbilt. Therefore Gloria was George's cousin.


That makes Anderson Cooper the great great great grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt and a cousin removed a few times of the current Biltmore owners. The Biltmore Estate itself has said that William Vanderbilt Cecil is a cousin removed a time or two to Anderson Cooper. Anderson Cooper does not have any ownership in or receive any special privileges at Biltmore Estate although they would love to have him visit.


Cooper is the son of Wyatt Emory Cooper and Gloria Vanderbilt and is listed as a contemporary descendant of the Vanderbilt family. He co authored the book Vanderbilt The Rise and Fall of an American Dynasty.


Conclusion


It was a satisfying day for us. We left feeling that every dollar was well spent and that we had seen American history alive. The estate is valued at more than three hundred million dollars for the house and land alone and the private company value is estimated above one billion. It earns no government money. Income comes from timed house tickets at about seventy dollars per adult, plus rooftop and behind the scenes tours, two hotels the Inn on Biltmore Estate and Village Hotel charging three hundred to six hundred dollars per night, more than ten restaurants and cafes, the winery with tastings and bottle sales, the equestrian centre, weddings, conferences and licensed products. This private model pays two thousand three hundred staff and preserves the house gardens and forest for the Cecil family and for visitors.


( Avtar Mota )






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