Friday, August 21, 2026

SHIVA NAIPAUL : A GENIUS FORGOTTEN AND OVERSHADOWED

                                       


Shiva Naipaul : A Genius Forgotten and Overshadowed 


In Europe and America, there is a wonderful concept of sharing books. Read a book, put it in a mini library in some park or any public space for others to read. No storing in homes. No book packed almirahs in apartments. These mini libraries display a notice: “Drop a book, pick up one.” It is through these libraries that I pick up books and read. Buying is unaffordable here. 
                                       




It is here that I picked up Kafka, Balzac, Marcel Proust, Schopenhauer, Milan Kundera and reread them. It is through one such library that I picked up "North of South" by Shiva Naipaul. I have always liked Shiva’s writing and observation power. His sentences are clean. His eye is unsparing. I read and returned it faithfully, apart from dropping some books that were with me from India into the same box for someone else to find.

The spine of Shiva's  book had  faded. The name on the cover meant nothing to most people who passed that box. Everyone knows V.S. Naipaul. Nobel Prize. A House for Mr Biswas. In a Free State. A Bend in the River. A towering figure, impossible to ignore. A name with a reputation that filled rooms before he entered them. His younger brother, Shiva, was equally brilliant. And he was overshadowed by the huge, overpowering image of his elder brother.  


Writing came to the Naipaul brothers from their father, Seepersad Naipaul, a journalist for the Trinidad Guardian. He wrote sketches of Indian life in Trinidad with a quiet, precise sympathy, and the sons grew up watching him turn observation into sentences.  

The Naipauls trace their origins to a Brahmin family from the hills of Uttar Pradesh. Under British rule they were sent as indentured labour to work the cane fields of Trinidad and Tobago. In three generations that line moved from those fields to a newsroom and then to Oxford. A reporter with a notebook came first. Then came two sons whose books travelled far. That journey from UP to the Caribbean, from cane fields to lecture halls, lies beneath all that they wrote. It accounts for both the detachment and the intimacy in their view.

Shiva Naipaul was born in Trinidad in 1945. He followed his elder brother V.S. to Oxford. He might have chosen the easier road. He might have written about home and exile and identity in the manner that was fashionable and praised in the 1970s. He did not. He took a notebook and bought a ticket instead. At that time the world spoke a great deal about socialism and liberation and revolution. The words looked neat on posters. Few people bothered to see what they did to everyday life. Shiva went to see.

North of South: An African Journey, published in 1978, is the account of that seeing. Africa, he observed, is treated in the former imperial West as something to be handled with care, as something fragile and to be turned the right way up. It was a topic much discussed and seldom described with accuracy, because accuracy would disturb the mood. So Shiva went himself. He travelled through postcolonial East Africa to learn what those grand ideas actually meant for ordinary Africans. The book presents two pictures of postcolonial Africa, and neither flatters. That is why the book mattered.

First he arrived in what was then Zaire, nominally independent yet still bound to Belgium, its former ruler, by trade and habit. The flags had changed. The agreements had not. From there he went to Kenya, held up as a pro Western, pro capitalist model. There he saw an African elite driving Mercedes and building great estates, copying the white settlers who had come before them. Independence had not ended imitation. It had only changed the hands doing it.

Later he went to Tanzania, the counterpoint to Kenya. It was a one party socialist state, and its leader Julius Nyerere was much admired by the international Left. There were villagisation programmes and talk of ujamaa and self reliance. Yet the shops were empty. The bureaucracy was ponderous. The distance between speech and reality was wide. He also visited Zambia, formerly Northern Rhodesia, a country oddly detached from its supposed role at the forefront of the fight against white supremacy. The slogans were everywhere. On the ground people were occupied with getting through the week.

He did not write out of disgust. He wrote out of attention. He noticed how a minister spoke, where a road stopped, how aid money vanished into concrete that never set. He would not romanticise poverty. He would not lay all blame at the door of colonialism and leave it there. Nor would he claim that Western capitalism was the answer. He looked, and he recorded what he saw.

The response was confusion. To the Left he seemed a traitor for refusing to idealise. To call something dysfunctional, they said, was to hand weapons to racists. To the Right he was of little use, because he would not turn Africa into a simple lesson about the failure of independence. Shiva was after something less tidy. He wanted to describe what was actually happening.
  
Shiva’s bibliography is brief, yet each title has force. He began with two Trinidad novels. Fireflies in 1970 examines a middle class Indian family coming apart under ambition. The Chip-Chip Gatherers in 1973 is a dark comedy about class and religion and the desire for status in a small society. Then came the non fiction that defined him. North of South in 1978 recorded his African travels. Black and White in 1980 studied a murder trial in Trinidad and used it to explore race and law and gossip. His final book, A Hot Country in 1983, took him to Guyana and across the Caribbean to examine politics and poverty and the long shadow of empire. He also contributed sharp journalism and travel pieces to places such as The New York Review of Books, always with the same clear and unflinching gaze.

In India, where he travelled and reported, he found readers and friends who valued his refusal to flatter. One of them was Khushwant Singh, writer and editor, a man with no time for piety. Singh had his own reputation for plain speaking, and he recognised in Shiva a similar temperament, a writer who would not dress reality to make it more acceptable. They met and talked and argued. In Delhi and Bombay literary circles Shiva mixed with journalists and authors who were weary of slogans and who wanted prose that faced the country directly, without apology and without romance.

The City Journal would later describe Shiva and V.S. as truth tellers of our time. Not because they were cynical, but because they would not lie to make an ideology comfortable. Shiva’s method was straightforward. Go. Look. Write what you see. Do not turn away because it is inconvenient. Do not soften it to please friends at home. Do not add fine words to make it nobler. He paid a price for this. He lived in that awkward middle ground where truth telling occurs. He was not a cheerleader, so no one could claim him. He was not a reactionary, so no one could dismiss him. He was simply a writer determined to describe the world as it was.

During my stay in the US, I reread Shiva after Marcel Proust and Kundera. If Proust teaches us  time., Kundera teaches   irony. Read him to know that he teaches something fundamental ; to look at harsh, uncomfortable truths directly, without turning away or pretending they aren’t there. He died in 1985, at 40, of a heart attack. He died young leaving behind five books and a way of looking.

I had picked up "North of South"  from a wooden box in the Van Vorst Park, Jersey City . It is again there . Certainly , waiting for someone else to find it. 

( Avtar Mota )


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REMEMBERING MOTHER : A WOMAN WITH TWO LIGHTS

                                
                       ( Avtar Mota with his mother and sister )
                                       



A Woman With Two Lights


There is no one left to speak with now. In company, and even in families, we do not converse. We merely chatter. Words are thrown like pebbles across a lake :  they skim, they hit, they skip, they vanish. None of them sink to where the heart keeps its water.


In the overwhelming noise created by the mismatch of delivery and expectation in our relations, sincere communication has dried up. We say “I’m fine” when we are breaking. We say “It’s okay” when nothing is. We speak to be heard, not to be understood. And we may be surrounded by voices, yet alone. A soldered connection is rare. The kind that holds, that does not come apart under heat. The kind that was forged without asking for anything back. When it does come, it does not arrive with fanfare. It arrives as fog. Slow, soft, absolute. It spreads without announcement until it engulfs and envelopes. Beneath that fog the world goes quiet. Communication ceases to be audible. It becomes silent, searching, profound, and visible only to the two souls inside it. No audience. No witnesses. No supporters . And no. detractors  .


That is how it was with my mother. We spoke little. The house did not need many words, because her presence was already a sentence, complete. The moment I sat before her, my heart was full. She required no explanations from me. Her gaze did the work of paragraphs. The quiet steadiness of her listening was a language older than speech. It was a bouquet of assurances and promises .


She had endured more sorrow than one life should bear. It came to her early and stayed late. The world asked too much and gave too little. And still, that sorrow never extinguished the luminous world within her heart and mind. She was a woman with two lights. The first was lent by nature: the sun, which rises each morning without complaint, which gives without keeping account. The second was her own: an enduring inner luminosity that asked for nothing and gave everything. By that light she could see clearly. She could discern the precious gems of truth among pebbles of falsehood. She could hear truth beneath noise. She possessed a rare suppleness : not weakness, but the moral courage to remain tender in a world that rewards hardness.


Forgive and forget was not a maxim she recited. It was a life she practiced, daily, without audience. She forgave, because to harbour bitterness would have dimmed her. She forgot, because love demanded more of her attention than injury did. I, however, am not made of the same substance. I am of this noisy time. I forget, but I don't know how to forgive. Forgiveness, I believe, is the province of saints. I am not a saint. Perhaps she was. 


Now the world is loud again. Full of expectations that deliveries can't  match . Full of words that do not arrive from the path of silent empathy . For me, her absence resounds more clearly than any voice. Sincere  communication is scarce. It does not reside in words. It resides in presence : in the simple, unguarded act of being-with. 


I am not a lover of darkness. I have never courted it. And yet I know the cost of keeping a light alive when existence sends its tempests again and again to put it out. Quite often ,  the wind is relentless : it takes, it breaks, it asks for nothing and gives no reason. And still I shield what little flame is left . If any light remains in me, it is not mine. It is borrowed. Half from the sun mother  loved, that merciless and faithful rising. Half from the steady fire she kept burning in her chest through every storm, without complaint, without reward. She did not give me the world. She gave me light to walk through it. And in a world that insists on darkness, i dare  and carry even a borrowed flame .  I cannot be what she was . But I can remember. And in remembering, I exist .


( Avtar Mota )




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Thursday, August 20, 2026

INDIANS IN TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO

                                    
                        ( Writer Shiva Naipaul )
                       ( Sir V S Naipaul Nobel Laureate)
                   ( Hindus in a Temple in Trinidad)
                                                         
                                ( Hanuman Temple in Trinidad ) 



                                         
                        ( A Gurudwara in Trinidad and Tobago)

                    ( A Hindu Temple in Tand T)
                   ( A Hindu Temple in Tand T)
             ( Inter faith dialogue in Trinidad and Tobago)
                           ( Holi in Trinidad And Tobago )
                           ( A Hindu  Temple in Trinidad )
 ( Satnarayan Maharaj, a well- know Hindu community leader in Trinidad and Tobago)
                                             
( Noor Hassanali, the first Indo-Trinidadian and the  first Muslim President of the country)
                                         
                (
A mosque built by immigrants from India )



Indians in Trinidad and Tobago: A Story of Crossing, Rooting, and Becoming


The first thing you notice about Trinidad and Tobago is the sea. It is never far. Two islands lie just seven miles off the coast of Venezuela at the southernmost edge of the Caribbean, where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean Sea and the Orinoco River pours its brown water into the Gulf of Paria. Trinidad is the larger, rounder island, 4,828 square kilometres of green hills, cane fields, and a north coast that drops straight into cliffs. Tobago is smaller, 300 square kilometres, quieter, more coral, more reef, more sleep. 


The geography made them inevitable meeting places. Trinidad has three mountain ranges running east to west: the Northern Range with its rainforest and waterfalls, the Central Range, and the Southern Range. Between them lie the Caroni Plain and the Naparima Plain, flat land that the British would later flood with sugar cane. The climate is tropical maritime. Two seasons only: the dry season from January to May, and the wet season from June to December, when afternoon rain comes like a curtain. Average temperature sits at 27C year round. The beaches tell you which island you are on. In Trinidad you have Maracas Bay on the north coast, where the road winds through the Northern Range and spills out to grey sand and bake and shark. In the south there is Manzanilla, long and wild. In Tobago you have Pigeon Point, Store Bay, and Englishman’s Bay, white sand, turquoise water. Tourism came late to Trinidad and early to Tobago. Trinidad built its reputation on Carnival, steelpan, calypso, oil, and gas. Tobago built its on eco-tourism, birdwatching, diving, and the promise of quiet.


To understand how Indians came to be here, you have to start with who ruled. 


Christopher Columbus sighted Trinidad in 1498. Spain claimed it but barely settled it. In 1797 the British took it from Spain. Tobago changed hands 33 times: Spanish, Dutch, French, British, until the Treaty of Paris in 1814 finally gave both islands to Britain. In 1889 Trinidad and Tobago were formally united as one colony. 


Britain brought sugar. And sugar needed labour. 


When slavery was abolished in 1834, the plantations emptied. Freed Africans moved to towns and refused plantation work. The planters looked to India. 


Arrival: The Routes


Between 1845 and 1917, 147,592 Indians arrived in Trinidad under the indenture system. The first ship, the Fatel Razack, docked at Port of Spain on 30 May 1845 with 225 passengers from Calcutta. That date is now Indian Arrival Day. Most migrants came from the Bhojpuri-speaking belt: eastern Uttar Pradesh and western Bihar. A smaller number came from Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh, and a few from Gujarat and Maharashtra. They were recruited by arkatis promising wages, land, and a return passage. 


The journey took three months from Calcutta and Madras. Many died at sea. Survivors were inspected at Nelson Island, then sent to estates in Caroni, Couva, San Fernando, Penal, and Princes Town. They signed five-year contracts for 25 cents a day. At the end, most took 10 acres of crown land instead of return passage.


Seven Old Photos of Indian families in Trinidad And Tobago

( An Indian village in 1890 in T and T)
( Hindu priests in T and T )


Settlement: From Barracks to Villages


The first settlements were plantation barracks. Then came free villages: Charlieville, Chaguanas, Couva, Tunapuna, Debe, Barrackpore, Siparia. They adapted. Rice replaced wheat. They planted mango, saheena, bodi, dasheen. Houses went on stilts. Women worked in the fields. The joint family bent but held. By 1946 Indians were 36 percent of the population. Today they are about 35.4 percent of 1.4 million people. Africans are 34.2 percent. No group has a majority.


Trade: From Cane to Commerce


Indenture began with sugar, but Indians did not stay on the estate. 


Phase 1: Agriculture 1845-1950


Indians became rice farmers in Caroni, cocoa and coconut planters in south Trinidad. They created the domestic food market. Roti shops, doubles carts, and provision grounds were the first Indian businesses.


Phase 2: Retail and Distribution 1950-1980

  

After WWII, Indians moved into trade. Families like the Rahaels, Mahabirs, and Ramcoos built grocery chains, hardware stores, and dry goods shops in Chaguanas and San Fernando. The “Indian store” became a feature of every village. They imported textiles, gold jewellery, and Puja items from India, Guyana, and later Dubai.


Phase 3: Manufacturing and Services 1980-now


With oil and gas booming, Indo-Trinidadians entered manufacturing, construction, food processing, and finance. Key sectors today: 

1. Food and Beverage: National brands like Royal, Solo, and Carib now have Indian management and ownership in distribution.

2. Construction and Real Estate: Major contractors in central and south Trinidad are Indo-Trinidadian.

3. Banking and Insurance: Executives in Republic Bank, First Citizens, and insurance firms.

4. Media: Nizam Mohammed and the CCN TV6 group.


India-T&T Trade Today


Since the 2000s, trade with India has grown. Trinidad exports LNG, methanol, and ammonia to India. India exports pharmaceuticals, automobiles, IT services, and Bollywood films to Trinidad. The Indian High Commission in Port of Spain runs trade missions. Indian companies like Bharti Airtel and Tata have explored Caribbean markets through Trinidad. 

The diaspora also drives trade. Trinis in Toronto and Queens import doubles mix, curry powder, and chutney music. Trinis in Trinidad import Saris, bridal wear, and gold from India. 

Trade turned the community from labourers into owners. The cane field became the shop, the shop became the company.

Cultural Continuity and Change


Language bent. Bhojpuri, Awadhi, Tamil, Telugu mixed with English and became Trinidadian Hindustani. By the third generation English dominated, but Roti, Dal, Puja, Diya stayed. 


Food went public. Doubles became the national breakfast. Curry, Roti, and Chutney moved from estate kitchens to every table. 


Music fused. Dholak and harmonium met African drums. The result was Chutney in the 1980s, then Chutney soca. Sundar Popo’s “Nani and Nana” in 1970, Drupatee Ramgoonai, Rikki Jai, and later Machel Montano put it on the Carnival stage.


Carnival: Where Indian Became Trini


Carnival began as French masquerade. After Emancipation, Africans turned it into Canboulay. For a long time Indians watched from the sidelines.That changed after the 1960s. First came the music. Chutney moved to the fete. By the 1990s, Chutney soca was a Carnival category. Today, Chutney Soca Monarch is watched by hundreds of thousands. 


Then came the bands. Indian costume designers like Wayne Berkeley and teams with Peter Minshall and Brian MacFarlane brought Indian mythology, Mughal silks, and temple architecture onto the road. Peacocks, lotus, and Ramayana scenes now parade down Ariapita Avenue. 


Then came the people. Jouvert in Port of Spain now has thousands of Indo-Trinidadians covered in mud and paint. Female masqueraders wine in Saris reworked as bikini costumes.Carnival became the place where the “deception of duality” collapsed. On the road for two days, there is no Indian, no African. There is only mas.


Religion: Temples, Mosques, and the Public Square


About 60 percent of Indo-Trinidadians are Hindu, 20 percent Muslim, the rest Christian. Hinduism rebuilt itself. The Temple in the Sea at Waterloo, Caroni, was built by Sewdass Sadhu walking into the sea daily from 1947. The Dattatreya Temple in Carapichaima has an 85-foot Hanuman. The Aranguez Hindu Temple dates to the 1890s. There is a well maintained functional Gurudwara in Port of Spain for about 10 Sikh families living in Trinidad and Tobago. Hindus also visit this Gurudwara on Baisakhi day.


Islam built the Jinnah Memorial Mosque in Port of Spain, the ASJA Mosque in San Fernando. Hosay in Cedros and Felicity, with its towering Tadjahs, is UNESCO-recognised heritage. 


Divali, Eid, Christmas, and Hosay are all national holidays. The Prime Minister lights Diyas.


Prominent Persons


Leaders: Adrian Cola Rienzi, Bhadase Sagan Maraj, Pundit Jagan Gosine, Maulana Nasir Ali, Dr. Satnarayan Maharaj. In politics: A.N.R. Robinson, Basdeo Panday, Kamla Persad-Bissessar, Winston Dookeran, Roodal Moonilal.


Writers: V.S. Naipaul, Nobel 2001, Sam Selvon, Ismith Khan, Lakshmi Persaud, Brinsley Samaroo ,Professor Kumar Mahabir , Shiva Naipaul and many more


Cricketers: From Estate Grounds to the World


1. Sonny Ramadhin :Esperance Village, 1929. Spin twin, 158 Test wickets.

2. Denesh Ramdin :Couva. Former West Indies Test captain.

3. Sunil Narine :Trinidad, 1988. T20 pioneer.

4. Ravi Rampaul : Preysal. 2012 T20 World Cup winner.

5. Akeal Hosein : Gasparillo.

6. Brian Lara : Santa Cruz, Indian and African ancestry. 400 not out.


Painters, Sculptors, and Designers


1. Neil Paris : Penal. Painter of rural Indian life.

2.Leela Persad :San Fernando. Indian miniature meets Caribbean colour.

3. Shalini Seereeram : Port of Spain. Identity and migration.

4. Kama Maharaj: Sculptor of the Hanuman at Dattatreya.

5.Carnival Designers : Wayne Berkeley and others. Indian imagery now defines the road.


Music, Film, and Media : Sundar Popo, Drupatee Ramgoonai, Rikki Jai, Machel Montano collaborations. Noble Douglas, filmmaker. I95.5, 103FM, TV6, CCN. Bollywood on prime time.


Population of Trinidad and Tobago

Trinidad and Tobago has a total population of about 1.4 million people as of the 2011 Census, with estimates for 2024-2026 placing it around 1.52 million. It is one of the most ethnically diverse countries in the Caribbean, and no single group holds a majority. 

Of the total population, people of Indian descent make up the largest single ethnic group at about 35.4%, which is roughly 537,000 people. This community traces its roots to the 147,592 indentured labourers who arrived from India between 1845 and 1917, mainly from Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh. 

In terms of religion, Hindus account for about 18.2% of the total population, or approximately 276,000 people. They form the majority within the Indian community and are largely Sanatan Dharma and Arya Samaj practitioners. 

Muslims make up about 5.0% of the population, roughly 76,000 people. Most are Sunni, with a smaller Ahmadiyya community, and the majority are also of Indian descent, though there are African and mixed Muslim families as well. 

The remaining population includes Africans at 34.2% , Mixed at 22.8%, and smaller groups of Europeans, Chinese, Syrians, and Indigenous peoples. Christians are the largest religious group overall at about 55.2%, followed by Hindus and Muslims. The rest include other faiths and those with no religious affiliation.

This mix shapes Trinidad and Tobago’s public life. Divali, Eid, Christmas and Hosay are all national holidays, and the country’s identity is built on this balance: Indian, African, and everything in between, living together on two small islands just off Venezuela.

Language and Demographics


English official. Trinidadian Creole spoken everywhere. Trinidadian Hindustani revived in schools. Indians concentrated in Chaguanas, Couva, San Fernando, Penal-Debe. Tobago under 5 percent Indian.


Migration: US, Canada, UK, Europe


Post-1962 independence wave. 


USA: Queens, Richmond Hill “Little Trinidad”. 

Canada: Toronto, Scarborough, Brampton. Divali Nagar Toronto 40,000 people. 

UK: London, Birmingham, Manchester. 

Europe: Netherlands, Germany. 


They send remittances and culture back. Toronto Carnival and New York Divali now influence Port of Spain.


Tourism


Trinidad sells Carnival. Tobago sells beaches. But both sell Indian food. Curry crab and dumpling is Tobagonian. Heritage tourism now includes the Fatel Razack monument, Indian Caribbean Museum, Waterloo, and temple sites.


V.S. Naipaul and the Question of Home


Naipaul left at 18 and wrote Trinidad as “half-made”. Indo-Trinidadians argued with him. A House for Mr Biswas gave them their novel. He is both son and critic. That tension is the story.


Conclusion: Ingrained in Oneness


The sugar estates are gone. Oil and gas came. But the people stayed and built. From cutting cane to owning the Roti shop. From the Roti shop to the construction firm. From the construction firm to sponsoring a Carnival band. Today an Indo-Trinidadian child in Chaguanas eats doubles, plays mas at Carnival, does Puja and watches Lara highlights on Sunday. She has a cousin in Toronto and knows her great-grandfather came from Calcutta. From Sonny Ramadhin to Sunil Narine. From Sewdass Sadhu walking into the sea to build a temple, to a designer putting Hanuman on a Carnival costume. From a Bhojpuri folk song in Felicity to a Chutney soca anthem on the Savannah stage. 


That is the story. Not exile. Arrival. Not loss. Translation. The islands were a crossroads. History made them a home. And on Carnival Monday and Tuesday, for 48 hours, the whole country proves that what is non-dual and ingrained in oneness can also dance.


( Avtar Mota)


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NOTEBOOKS 1951-59: ALBERT CAMUS

                                    



Notebooks 1951–1959: Private  Diary of Albert Camus 

 I want to thank the Jersey City Public Library (JCPL) , for lending me this published private diary  of Albert Camus, 

 I finished it today , and I am grateful in a way that feels almost private. This is the real Camus, not the public voice polished for essays or novels, but the man writing to himself in fragments he never intended for us to read. It reads like a diary kept in the margins of a life, and that is precisely why it moved me so deeply. Tears of joy, sympathy, and solidarity welled up in my eyes more than once, because here is a writer struggling to be decent in an indecent time, and refusing to look away.

One entry stops me cold: “I struggle like a fish caught in the net’s meshes.” That is the absurd condition in a single line, and you can feel him fighting against it. 

Then, with devastating honesty: “I sometimes accuse myself of being incapable of love. Maybe this is true, but I have been able to select a few people and to keep for them faithfully, the best of me, no matter what they do.” That is not philosophy. That is a promise. 

When the news of the Nobel Prize came, he wrote: “Nobel! Strange feeling of overwhelming pressure and melancholy. At 20 years old, I was poor and naked, I knew true glory : My Mother.” 

And later, with a tenderness that aches: “I loved those places, luminous restaurants, dance halls, etc., that men invented to shelter themselves from life . This wounded thing inside me.”

About truth , he notes at page 216 of his diary:
" A man of truth doesn't age. A little more effort and he will not die." 

And one more that I liked reads this:"somebody inside me has always tried , with all his strength, to be nobody." 


Thank you, JCPL, for putting this book in my hands.

( Avtar Mota)


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