( Tahar distribution. A watercolour by Bansi Parimu)
KASHMIRIS AND TAHAR OR RICE COOKED IN TURMERIC OR SAFFRON
Tahar
is rice cooked with turmeric powder and mixed with hot clarified butter or mustard oil and a
pinch of common salt . It is a symbol of Kashmir’s composite culture. Kashmiri
Pandits cook it on birthdays or for offering it to the deities, and also to
express gratitude or thanksgiving. They eat it within the family and distribute
this ‘Tahar’ among neighbours on birthdays apart from carrying it to Ashrams of
saints to distribute it to the devotees as Prasada. They do not use onions for
preparing ‘Tahar’ or yellow rice.
It
is a treat to eat Tahar or yellow rice on birthdays. After the Puja by the
priest, Tahar is distributed as small palm pressed yellow rice balls
called ‘Tahari Meitt ’ in Kashmiri.
Before being distributed among the family members, some quantity of this Tahar
is first offered to the birds. Tahar is
also relished with curd and spicy vegetarian or non-vegetarian ( cheese or
potatoes or generally goat or sheep liver cooked with potatoes called ‘Ollu Tsarvun’ in Kashmiri ) dish.
Kashmiri
Muslims also prepare it for thanksgiving or Shukraana or Niyaz. Some families
invariably cook it on Fridays and carry it to the mosques for distribution
after prayers. Kashmiri Muslims add shallots ( a variety of onion known as Praan
in Kashmiri ) to it and cook large quantity and quite often distribute it
publicly on the roadside or inside Ziyarat of a saint. I have seen yellow rice
or Tahar being distributed at Tsraar Sharif
Ziyarat of Nund Reshi. I have observed
that this old tradition of ‘Tahar’ cooking and its public distribution
continues with Kashmiri Muslims to this day.It was a common
scene in Rainawari or any part of the Srinagar city to see men rushing to receive ‘Tahar’
when some family brought the same on the roadside in a big copper plate. Something
like a stampede would be created by people to receive Tahar.
Kashmiri
Pandits would also celebrate ‘Ashad-Navum’ (the ninth day of the month of
Ashad) as the birthday of goddess
Sharika. People would go to Hari Parbat shrine of the goddess with ‘Tahar Tsarvan’ ( cooked yellow rice and non-vegetarian dish ) and
distribute the same to the devotees over
there. It is believed that Hari Parbat is the abode of goddess Sharika or the benefactor mother
goddess of Srinagar.
Tahar
is also prepared by Kashmiris when something untoward had to happen but luckily
did not happen or someone was saved from some trouble or misfortune or accident.
I vividly remember how our ladies would immediately cook yellow rice or Tahar
as a thanksgiving to almighty. I also
remember my mother preparing yellow rice and feeding the birds after moving the
rice laden plate three times over my head.
At this time she would say
softly :-
“
Gutsch tche balai dhoor ”
(
Let every evil be away from you.)
The
tradition of ‘Tahar’ continues with the Kashmiri Pandit community even after
their migration from the Kashmir valley.
Tahar cooking continues to be an essential part of some important rituals and
religious ceremonies. Tahar is also taken for distribution to the devotees as
Prasada to various Ashrams built-in memory of highly venerated saints of
Kashmir like Gopi Nath Ji, Reshi Peer and
Swami Nand Lal Ji.
Preparation
of Tahar or yellow rice is not confined
to Kashmir only. I found it in cross section of
cultures in the country . I also came to know about its significance in many
cultures across various countries of Asia,
Europe and Africa.
Some religious scholars link the cooking of
yellow rice in India with ‘Basant
Panchami’. This festival is related to the yellow bloom of mustard flowers. In India,
people celebrating this festival would perform Puja, cook sweet yellow rice and
wear new garments preferably with yellow colour.
A careful study of various cultures
reveals that yellow rice is also cooked widely in plains of India and other
countries the world over. I quote some:-
(1) In Tamil Nadu and Kerala, Pongal and Onam festivals are celebrated with the cooking of special rice made yellow with a pinch of turmeric. This yellow rice is considered auspicious and is also showered on newly married couples. It is offered to the deities and used as an oblation in the sacred fire of many Hindu rituals.
(2) The Srilankans eat yellow rice ( using turmeric ) which is exactly Kashmiri ‘Tahar’. They also add cardamoms, cashew nuts, lemon juice, green leafy vegetable and cloves to this rice.
(3) Yellow rice is a traditional South African recipe and is eaten with mutton having spiced gravy.
(4) In Thailand, rice made yellow with a pinch of turmeric is prepared on festivals. Now saffron is also used as a colouring agent. It is enjoyed with curries of all kinds as well as seafood, fish, and even chicken dishes.
(5) Rice made yellow with turmeric or saffron is popular and a staple dish in Spain.
.
(6) For ‘Rosh Hashanah’ or celebration the Jewish new year, which is a a wonderful tradition, people prepare special rice made yellow with a pinch of turmeric or saffron.
(1) In Tamil Nadu and Kerala, Pongal and Onam festivals are celebrated with the cooking of special rice made yellow with a pinch of turmeric. This yellow rice is considered auspicious and is also showered on newly married couples. It is offered to the deities and used as an oblation in the sacred fire of many Hindu rituals.
(2) The Srilankans eat yellow rice ( using turmeric ) which is exactly Kashmiri ‘Tahar’. They also add cardamoms, cashew nuts, lemon juice, green leafy vegetable and cloves to this rice.
(3) Yellow rice is a traditional South African recipe and is eaten with mutton having spiced gravy.
(4) In Thailand, rice made yellow with a pinch of turmeric is prepared on festivals. Now saffron is also used as a colouring agent. It is enjoyed with curries of all kinds as well as seafood, fish, and even chicken dishes.
(5) Rice made yellow with turmeric or saffron is popular and a staple dish in Spain.
.
(6) For ‘Rosh Hashanah’ or celebration the Jewish new year, which is a a wonderful tradition, people prepare special rice made yellow with a pinch of turmeric or saffron.
(7) Narenj Palao of Afghanistan is a sweet rice dish made with saffron. Pieces of orange peel, pistachios, almonds and chicken are also added to this yellow rice. Further, lamb Kebab with yellow saffron rice is a popular Afghan food.
(8) Dami Baghali -turmeric rice with yellow Fava beans and caramelized onions is a popular Iranian food.
(9) People in Indonesia, celebrate their auspicious occasions by preparing Tumpeng or yellow rice surrounded by an assortment of local dishes. The rice is made yellow by boiling it in turmeric or saffron. This Tumpeng is cooked for cheerful and happy festivities and celebrations, such as birth, engagement, marriage, Eid, Christmas, etc.
(10) People in Bali, Indonesia prepare yellow rice known as Ketan for religious ceremonies. They also offer this rice to gods and deities. Bali is an island and a province of Indonesia and home to most of the Indonesia's Hindu minority.
(Avtar
Mota )
..
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Based on a work at http:\\autarmota.blogspot.com\.
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