Saturday, September 22, 2012

NARAAN NAAG SPRING AND ANCIENT TEMPLE RUINS OF SODAR TIRTHA OR NARAN NAAG OF KASHMIR









NARAN NAAG SPRING AND ANCIENT TEMPLE RUINS OF SODAR TIRTHA OR NARAN NAAG OF KASHMIR



I love the picturesque  Sindh vally in kashmir. Sindh stream  originates from upper reaches of Drass area and  flows  down to join  river Vitasta ( Jhelum ) at Prayag or shadipora. The lofty snow clad mountain peaks , Alpine forests and grasslands (frequented by Gujjars and Bakerwals )are just bewitching and serene. At one end ,this valley happens to be a gateway to LADAKH or the land of LAMAS . The other end touches Sumbal near vitasta . Remains of Anderkot fort are just 2 kms away from village sumbal. Yes Anderkot that happened to be the capital of king Jayapida grandson of king lalitaditya . Queen Kota committed suicide( in 14th centuary ) inside this fort only .
                                                                              
The ancient shrine of Kheer Bhawani at village Tulamula lies in this area only.So does the Jamia Mosque of Dodderhaama , considered to be the camping place of large group of Syeds from Central Asia headed by Shah e Hamdaan on their Journey to Kashmir .Ancient Sodar Tirthaa ( present day Naran Naag temple ruins ) near Kangan also falls in this area.The sacred lakes of Kishen sar ( 3819 metres from sea level ) , Vishensar ( 4080 metres from sea level ) Gaad sar ( 3962 metres from sea level ) and Gangabal ( approx 13000 feet from sea level ) are also located in this area only.

Naran Naag in Neelmata Purana and Rajtarangini of kalhana

Neelmata repeatedly makes mention of Bhuteshwara Teertha or Sodar Naag or sodar Teertha . Bhuteshawara Teertha or Sodar Teertha is the present day Naran Naag Temple ruins and Sodar Naag is the spring of this temple complex.That is how present-day Naraan nag was called in ancient times . I have verified this fact at page 293 and 294 apart II of Neelmata Purana ( verse  1154 to 59 , 1160to 1162 , 1163 to 1164 and 1167 )translated by eminent Sanskrit scholar Dr Ved kumari Ghai. Neelmata also explains the spiritual merits of taking a bath in Sodar naag or Naran Naag as equivalent to performing Ashavmedha .

Kalhana too makes repeated mention of Sodar Naag or Naran Naag in Rajtaringini . To quote Taranga I Canto 107 and 347, Taranga II canto 123 and 139 and Taranga IV canto 189 .He too calls it Bhuteshwara or Bhutesha and Sodar Teertha . Again the spring inside this temple complex is referred to as Sodar Naag by him. In fact Kalhana makes it clear that this temple complex was patronized by various kings of Kashmir . King Jaluka ( 137 BC ) erected a stone temple at this site dedicated to shiva Bhutesha. Kalhana adds that King jayendra ( 61 BC ) would come to worship shiva Bhutesha at this temple complex. King lalitaditya ( 713-755 AD )donated a good sum of money to this shrine after one of his victory expeditions. King Avantivarman ( 855-883 AD ) built a stone pedestal with silver conduit at this shrine for bathing of sacred images.Kalhan’s family was also devoted to this Teertha . His father Canpaka paid frequent visits to this shrine . Kalhana’s uncle Kanka also happened to be a frequent visitor to this shrine . The Teertha had a large number of Purohits who were paid handsome salaries from the endowments created for the shrine .As per kalhana , the treasury of this shrine was plundered by king Sangramraja of Kashmir ( 1003-28 AD).

Location of the Shrine Bhuteshwara or Naran Naag and Present Status

The shrine can be reached presently by travelling to Kangan (about 40 Kms )from Srinagar . From kangan one has to go up a trekking a distance of about 17 Kms through Alpine forests and grasslands where Bakerwals can be seen moving with their livestock. A motorable road also is in use at present to reach this ancient shrine . Ruins of many temples can be seen and some of the structure erected in stone are still erect. . As per records and various books , there used to be about 17 temples Dedicated to Shiva Bhuteshwara , Shiva Ugresa and Bhairava built by different kings of ancient Kashmir from time to time .Some more temples appear to be hidden under thick vegetation around this complex. Water from Gangbal lake located at an altitude of about 13000 feet from sea leval comes to this area . Sodar Naag or the water spring still exists at this site . This spring is an oblong rectangular structure lined with stone slabs with proper steps . Some Shiiva lingas carved on stones around the spring are still visible to naked eye. Kanakvahini or present day Kreink Nadi flows to the south of this temple complex of Naran Naag. Kanak Vahini or Krein Nadi is formed by two tributaries flowing out from two lakes above this tiratha known as NundKol and Gangbal.Kreink nadi finally joins Sindh stream below the Temple complex near Kangan. This place has now become the base camp for trekking to Gangabal lake . People now take a shorter route to go to gangabal which is about 8 hour trek from Naran naag . kashmiri pandits have been visiting this area since many centuries for performing Shradha after immersing the ashes of their dead relatives in sacred Gangabal lake which lies below the Harmukh mountain peak ( 17000 feet in height from sea level ).Presently also trekkers to Gangabal lake use this short route . A night stay at Naran Naag and early morning steep uphill trekking of about 17 Kms ( Done in 8 hours )takes you to Harmukh peak below which lies the sacred Gangbal lake .Naran Naag is otherwise a halting camp on return journey to Gangbal . The old and traditional Route to Gangabal is through Sonamarg _ Nichnai _vishensar and kishensar lakes _Gaad sar lake _ Gangbal lake and finally the return via Narran Nag.This is a five days trek wherein one comes across deep blue lakes with trout fish , wild flowers ,Grassy Plains and Morain ( debris deposited by glaciers ), Steep valleys with hanging glaciers feeding small rivers and lakes and tumbling streams pouring out of lakes .Europeans and foreigners trekking to Gangabal prefer this route only.A distance of about 95 Kms is covered through this trek in total upto Kangan beginning from Sonamarg.


Presently lodges are available at Naran Naag for night stay at Rs500/= Per room with clean beddings. Government accommodation is also available on competitive rates. To conclude i add “ comparison “ a poem by noted Kurdish poet Sherko Bekas….

(comparison )

History came
and compared its greatness
to the magnitude of your sufferings.
your sufferings surpassed it by a few fingerbreadths.
When the ocean wanted to compare
Its depth to that of your wounds,
It screamed for fear of
Being drowned in them.

( Sherko Bekas noted Kurdish Poet )

So long so much for Naraan Naag
( Avtar Mota )

Saturday , September 22, 2012.. Time 11.05 PM … Good Night
                                                                                                                                                              

Based on a work at http:\\autarmota.blogspot.com\.

Friday, September 21, 2012

AMRTISAR , KASHMIRIS AND DR SAIF UD DIN KITCHLOO..


                                   ( Portrait of Saif ud Din Kitchloo ..Photo by the Author at Jalianwala Bagh,

                                         Trust , Amritsar ) )



THE HERO OF JALIANWALA  BAGH, AMRITSAR......DR SAIF UD DIN KITCHLOO ( 1888-1963)

 “The story of humanity is never a story of religion alone. our history is full of details as to how assertive religious identities have brought gloom and misfortune to human beings.I oppose the very idea of partition as It is neither in the interest of Muslims nor Hindus. It can only be delivered with the blood of millions of Indians and mad violence. It is against the idea of lasting peace in the subcontinent and Asia. Generations of Indians will pay the price for this blunder on our part. A wall and institutionalised hatred can never deliver peace and stability. I am surprised that my friends in Congress have also opted favourably for this resolution. I can only feel sad and lonely in case you surrender Nationalism to communalism."……..(Dr.Saif ud Din Kitchloo)

 Dr Saif ud Din Kitchloo was out and out a nationalist leader who fought against the British Raj. He was from a well-settled Kashmiri Muslim family of Amritsar. He was the General Secretary of AICC and also headed the Punjab unit of AICC before the partition of the country.A hero of Jalianwala Bagh, he spent more than 14 years in prison during the British Raj. A Gandhian, he built Swaraj Bhawan in Amritsar which became a hub of Hindu-Muslim unity.

 After 1947, he lived in Delhi and associated himself with the Communist Party of India. He is the unsung architect of' Indo-Soviet Friendship ' at its initial stage. The Russians awarded him with Lenin Peace Prize. He was a close friend of Madan Lal Dhingra and Dr Satyapal, great freedom fighters from Punjab. Toufique, his only son, survives from his family. Toufique lives in Delhi and worked previously in Poland, Germany and Ethiopia. Toufique (born 1932) has also written a book on his father. Dr Saif ud Din Kitchloo died in 1963.

 In 2002, I was informed by one Dhani Ram Sharma, (age 85 years at that time, who would call on Punjab National Bank, Lawrence Road, Amritsar where I was posted) as to how on every Ram Navmi day Dr Kitchloo would lead Ramnavmi procession of Hindus in the city. In fact I came to know many things from this elderly person.He also informed that there was a Kashmiri Brass Band owned by a Kashmiri Muslim family in the city that was always in demand during marriage season for its excellent Shehnai players. According to him, Dr Kitchloo had a huge mansion in the old city in Karmuwali Deohri. After 1947, he never claimed the property and desired that it be allocated to some Hindu refugee from Lahore when he himself moved to Delhi. The property was damaged in the communal frenzy of 1947. This gentleman also informed me that Kashmiri Shias in Amritsar had their  Imambara and graveyard in the Sultanwind Road area. The Kashmiri Muslims of Amritsar were educated and engaged in Shawl business and government jobs. Some leading lawyers of the city were from the Kashmiri Muslim community who later moved to Lahore. Two famous lawyers of Amritsar were Kashmiri Muslims who belonged to the Manto family. Then you had the well-known Dar and Butt families. There was a Zargar family who were well-known goldsmiths. Sh Dhani Ram Sharma also informed me that Pandit Dwarika Nath Kitchloo of Amritsar belonged to a wealthy Kashmiri Pandit family engaged in the Saffron and Shawl business. Tikoo family was another reputed family apart from Mattoos who built the Kashmiri Shivala at Farid Chowk, he informed.

 

Recurring floods, Cholera epidemics, famines, lack of employment avenues, shawl Business and suppression were the main reasons for the migration of Kashmiris from the Valley during the nineteenth century. By Kashmiris I mean both Pandits and Muslims. These migrants settled mostly in Punjab and Delhi. Some Pandits moved further towards the princely states presently known as United Provinces (UP), MP, and Rajasthan. The Kashmiri Muslims confined themselves mostly in Punjab concentrating in and around cities of Lahore, Ludhiana and Amritsar. One such Kashmiri Muslim family that moved to Amritsar was Ahmed Joo Kitchloo. Ahmed Joo owned a Pashmina and saffron trading business and originally belonged to a Kashmiri Brahmin family from Baramulla. Ahmed Joo’s grandfather Prakash Ram Kitchloo had embraced Islam.


Dr Saif ud Din was the grandchild of Ahmed Joo and the son of Aziz ud Din Kitchloo. He was born in Amritsar in January 1888. Young Saif ud Din did his Initial schooling in Amritsar and went to Cambridge and Germany to complete his doctorate. After his return to India, he started his legal practice and married the daughter of Hafeez Ullah Manto another Kashmiri lawyer from Amritsar. In 1919 he was elected Municipal Commissioner of the Amritsar city. He was drawn towards the Freedom Movement of the country under the leadership of Mahatma Gandhi. He took part in Gandhi Ji's Satyagraha (Non-cooperation) Movement and soon left his lucrative practice to become a part of the Freedom Movement of the country. He also became an active member of the All India Khilafat committee.

 Dr Kitchloo started the Urdu daily “Tanzim” meant for the uplift of the poor and illiterate  Muslims. In 1921, he was instrumental in establishing the “Swaraj Ashram” in Amritsar to train young men for national work and to promote Hindu-Muslim unity. As per Dr Amandeep, a research scholar from Guru Nanak University, Amritsar:-:-

“There is a new dimension to anti-colonial consciousness among Kashmiris living in Amritsar just before the partition of the country. The notable amongst them are Abdul Salam Rafiqi, Dr Saifuddin Kitchloo and Abdul Majid. Abdul Majid, a Kashmiri was one of the founders of the communist party of India in Tashkent in 1925. Dr Kitchloo, the hero who inspired the struggle against the Rowlatt Act, went on to play a leading role in the Indian National Congress movement. In 1891 the number of Kashmiri Muslims in Amritsar was 21, 261. It was one-third of the total Muslim population and one-sixth of the total population of Amritsar. By the last decade of the nineteenth century, a few Kashmiri families had become rich enough to influence the politics of the Amritsar city. Among these families were Shaikh Ahmad Sadiq, chairman of the Amritsar Municipal Committee, Shaikh Sadiq Hasan, a member of the Central Legislative and Punjab Legislative Assembly for Amritsar, Shaikh Muhammad Sadiq, a member of the Punjab Legislative Council from Amritsar.The strongest opposition to Rowlatt Act passed by British Rulers in March 1891 was organised and led by Dr Saif Ud Din Kitchloo in the entire Punjab. He asked people to take the vow of Satyagraha given by Gandhi to liberate their country constitutionally. He denounced the British bureaucracy and encouraged the people to protest against the present mode of administration. He made extraordinary efforts to forge unity among different factions of the Punjabi society and create a dynamic force against the despotic and tyrannical administration of General Dyer. Dr Kitchloo demanded Home Rule and envisaged an India having the same political powers or autonomy as other British colonies. As the agitation against the Bills mounted, Gandhi gave a call for nationwide Hartal. The date was initially fixed for 30 March but was later changed to 6 April as it was thought that enough notice had not been given. Dr Kitchloo was in the forefront on both days.Hartal was observed all over Punjab on March 30, 1919, and a mass meeting was held at Jallianwalla Bagh, attended by some 30,000 people. On April 4th, Dr Kitchloo and some activists were served with orders under the Defence of India Act, prohibiting them from addressing or attending public meetings.On April 6th, there was a country-wide Hartal. It was observed principally in Amritsar, without any effort on the part of any local leader. There was no police interference. With Satyapal, Dr Kitchloo surcharged the people of Amritsar emotionally on Ram Naumi day i.e. 9 April. For the first time in the history of Amritsar, the Muslims had joined the traditional Hindu festival. It was the Hindu-Muslim unity which was disturbing the British authorities. Dr Satyapal and Dr Kitchloo were taken into custody and deported to Dharamsala. The move proved self-defeating. The events that followed were due to premeditated action on the part of the Punjab government i.e. the arrest of two beloved leaders. Dr Kitchloo warned the Deputy Commissioner that their arrest could lead to violence. In the end, he wrote a letter to his wife asking her to calm the people on his behalf. But the letter was never delivered to her.The citizens of Amritsar went in a procession to the Deputy Commissioner’s bungalow. The procession was fired upon in which three to four persons were killed and many more wounded. Soon the news of these killings spread. Thousands of people in Amritsar city went on a rampage and burnt a number of buildings including the Town Hall. They looted the National Bank and killed its manager. Zanana Hospital was attacked. Miss Sharewood was assaulted. An English man was killed at Rego-bridge. The destruction and looting of the city continued till 5.00 p.m. The city of Amritsar was put under the military administration of Brigadier General Dyer. Martial Law was proclaimed. On the morning of 13 April, Dyer made a proclamation prohibiting processions and meetings.  At about the same time a boy was announcing by beating a tin can that a meeting would be held at 4.00 p.m. in Jallianawala Bagh. 20,000 people gathered in Jallianwala Bagh to protest against the barbarous actions of the Punjab regime, and to demand the release of their leaders. On the ‘presidential chair’ the picture of their leader Kitchloo was placed. Soon General Dyer entered with 150 soldiers. No notice was given to the mass of the people to disperse and within three minutes he ordered his troops to fire. In all 1650 rounds were fired from a range of forty to fifty yards. The firing lasted for ten minutes. He stopped firing because ammunition was running low.According to official estimates (The Hunter Committee Report), 379 people were killed and 1200 wounded. General Dyer was directing the shooting where the crowd was the thickest. After the massacre, the wounded were left along with the dead to die in agony and no medical assistance was permitted. Subsequently, a reign of terror was unleashed throughout Punjab. While scores of Punjabis were hanged, imprisoned and flogged, the British accused Dr Kitchloo of being number one in the Amritsar conspiracy case. The whole trial was a farce. He was sentenced to life imprisonment but the public opinion in Britain caused the British government to release Dr Kitchloo. The Rowlatt agitation in Amritsar witnessed unprecedented Muslim participation. Out of the total 151 sentenced to death from Amritsar City, thirty were Muslims. The accused in the Rego Bridge murder case, Mani and Muhammed Shafi were Kashmiri Muslims. Aziz another Kashmiri artisan was sentenced to death in the Alliance Bank murder case. Miles Irving, DC of Amritsar in his report attributed rioting to Kashmiris.”







                               
                                                          ( Dr Kitchloo in New Delhi 1953)

                                                                         



                                                         ( A specimen of Dr Kitchloo's handwriting)

Like Maulana Azad, Saif Ud din Kitchlu opposed the Two Nation Theory and the partition of the country.He remained steadfast in his commitment to secularism and shifted to Delhi after his house was burnt by arsonists in 1947 and later spent the rest of his years working for closer political and diplomatic relations with the USSR. He received the Stalin Peace Prize in 1952, which was renamed the Lenin Peace Prize under De-Stalinization. In 1951, a Government Act made him, Jawaharlal Nehru, and Maulana Abul Kalam Azad, life trustees of the Jallianwala Bagh National Memorial Trust. He died on October 9, 1963. His son, Toufique Kitchloo, lived in a Lampur village on the outskirts of Delhi and one of his daughters Zahida Kitchloo, married M B Sreenivasan, the well-known Malayalam music director. MBS as he was known to millions of his fans the world over, produced many hits in Malayalam films. His style of music involved only minimal orchestration. He is the one who introduced the legendary singer Yesudas to the film industry. A son was also born to Zahida and M B Sreenivasan who was fondly named Kabir. But no member of this family survives today.

.
 In 1989, the Government Of India released a commemorative stamp in honour of Dr Kitchloo. Toufique Kitchloo (son of Dr Kitchloo) has also written a book on his father titled " Dr Saif Ud Din Kitchlew Hero Of Jalianwala Bagh".Toufique (Born in 1932) has done an MA in history from Delhi University and has lived in Poland, Germany and Ethiopia.

 After 1947, the new political dispensation at the helm of affairs sidelined Dr Saif ud din Kitchloo. Not much importance was accorded to his role as a freedom fighter and the real architect of Hindu-Muslim unity at the critical turn of history. Never did he complain or express any dissatisfaction.    I end this post with lines from a poem of Prof Ale Ahmed Suroor:-

 

“kar diya barq-o-bukhaaraat ne mahashar barpa,

Apane daftar me litaafat ke sivaa kuchh bhi nahin.

Gir gaye waqt ki berahm kashaakash me magar,

Paas tahazeeb ki daulat ke siva kuchh bhi nahin”…. ( Ale Ahmed Surooor)

 

(This lightening and heat has created

the day of the last Judgement in our world,

In our dealings, nothing exists beyond politeness.

Trapped we have been in the merciless struggle of this age,

But for the wealth of the beliefs,

We have nothing to put on display.)

 

(Avtar Mota)                 



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PALLADIUM CINEMA OF KASHMIR

 
(MEMORIES PALLADIUM CINEMA, LAL CHOWK, SRINAGAR)


 “Come near. Put your one ear close to the door . Close the other ear with your hand and listen to i. Can you hear Dharmendra ‘s voice ?” said my friend Kuldeep Machama.

“Yes,” said I .

 That is how during our college days we would listen to the dialogues of actors from the roadside gate of Palladium cinema, Lal Chowk. With no parking facility, the doors of the main hall opened straight on the Road. You had to go up the gallery or box seats through the road only. The tickets for the third class( as it used to be called ) were required to be purchased by lining up in a queue covered by iron bars. Once in this queue, you had no option to come out except after reaching the ticket window. Men selling tickets in black, onlookers, pedestrian crowd, fried fish Reddis, pen sellers, Chaurasia’s Pan shop and other small-time traders on the road gave a total roadside aura to this cinema hall. Once a show was over, crowds would pour out choking the narrow roads on both sides of the hall. 

Later during my banking career, I came to know the proprietors as well. They were liberal in giving passes for the gallery when demanded. They would visit the bank to purchase bank drafts generally favouring ' Elora Films, Jalandhar ' , possibly a distribution house for northern India. 

 I have seen late-night shows with men throwing burning cigarette bits to the screen like missiles. Some times someone would cry, “ Soruf! Soruf! or Snake! Snake! ”. Some times someone would put his hand or head or whole body against the projector’s beam creating silhouettes on the screen. Watch any show, the hall was always full of smoke. None could escape the headache that usually visited cinema-goers in Srinagar city cinema halls purely on account of smoke created by large scale smoking. Cigarettes were brought by boys who would sell tea and snacks inside the hall moving from one seat to another in total darkness. The gates would keep opening with people entering as late as one hour after the start of the movie. Lo ! you had to listen to other soundtrack going on in the lower stall. Men drunk( Liquor ) or otherwise would pass loud comments on actions of the hero or the villain. Sometimes clapping in applause and at times cursing the villain loudly. Having said so, it also remains a fact that the proprietors brought new and very good movies for screening. I saw some popular Dustin Hoffman movies in this cinema hall only. We saw Saturday Night Fever twice in this cinema hall. 






The cinema was in the heart of the city or one could say privy to many events that shaped the history of Kashmir since the early forties of the last century. I have seen a photograph of 1945 wherein Sheikh Mohd Abdullah and Bakshi Ghulam Mohd are shown addressing a public gathering at Lal Chowk exactly in front of this cinema hall. 


Mun tu shudam tu mun shudi,mun tun shudam tu jaan shudi
 Taakas na guyad baad azeen, mun deegaram tu deegari

 ( Amir Khusro )

 I have become you, and you me,
 I am the body, you soul;
 So that no one can say hereafter,
 That you are someone, and me someone else.

 This is the Persian couplet with which Sheikh Mohd Abdullah welcomed Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru in a mammoth gathering at Lal Chowk Srinagar in 1947. Those who came to listen to these leaders say that the dais for this gathering was just opposite Palladium cinema in Lal Chowk. 

 Bhai Anant Singh Gauri (a philanthropic Sikh gentleman) brought cinema to the Kashmir valley by opening the Palladium Talkies at Lal Chowk, Srinagar sometime in 1932. Ardeshir Irani’s Alam-Ara was the first movie screened in this hall. When Sher e Kashmir Institute of Medical Sciences was set up at Soura, Srinagar, Bhai Anant Singh donated more than 50 Kanals of land for this premier medical centre in Kashmir valley. Bhai Anant Singh kept his cinema hall at the disposal of the National Militia or Peace Brigade cadres of Kashmir after the tribal raid of 1947. During that period, the cinema hall also became the headquarter of the emergency administration headed by Sheikh Mohammed Abdullah. 

                                                                            

     ( Nehru and Sheikh Abdullah shaking hands  in a rally in front of Palladium Cinema in Lal Chiowk,  Srinagar ,Kashmir )



                                                                           
                                        ( Ariel view of  Palladium cinema Amira kadal )
                                                                                      
                ( Present condition of the cinema Hall .Even this structure is being demolished )



                           
   
The story of cinema in Kashmir is the story of this hall. The story of cinema crowd management in Kashmir could well be the story of Mohammad Ismail.

Mohammad Ismail was on the payrolls of Palladium cinema, Lal Chowk. He was well built and would be seen outside the entrance to the third-class ticket window or sometimes near the stall window. Many people believed him to be working for the black marketeers of cinema tickets known as ‘ Blackers ’. He would pull out his cane or leather belt and create terror outside the ticket windows by his unique style of crowd management. Sometime in 1981or 1982, I was told by the nearby Chaurasia Paan shop owner something like this:-

“ Mohammad Ismail is a clever dramabaaz. The ticket ' Blackers " are his agents or vice versa. They work for each other’s interests. The moment any blacker notices some gentle family coming near the ticket window, he cries, ‘ Aaayi ha Bobu Ji ta Khoja Sahib ’ or ‘ People from gentle or respectable Pandit and Muslim families have come’. And Ismala (as he was known fondly ) immediately makes noise and charges upon crowds near the ticket windows with his cane or belt. The gentle Pandit and Muslim family ticket buyers get frightened and move away from the ticket windows. At this moment the black marketeers of tickets come out with bundles of tickets and sell them to the respectable and frightened people at a premium. This is all done in connivance. The police, the owners and the employees know everything about this activity .”


Sometimes Mohammad Ismail was seen with the film advertisement band that would start from the Palladium around 9.30 AM with posters, hoardings and a proper Band Baaja. Kashmiri painters advertised the new movie with their innovative sentences written artistically. Sentences like ‘ Ek naagin talwaar chalaane mei maahir ’ or ‘ Gaanv ki bholi ladki aur shahar ka jadoogar ’ or ‘ Maum ki gudiya ki aag se takkar ’ or ‘ Ladaai aur maar kutaayi se 
bhar-poor ’ or ‘ Ek Ladki do deewane ’. The bandmaster and bagpipers played music to the amusement of the onlookers on the road. The bandmaster known as Rajab Sahib ( Mohammad Rajab ) would lead this parade to advertise a new movie. This strange group carried hoardings as they moved through the streets of the city playing music. The advertisement system later changed to hiring Tonga and making rounds in the city with posters and hoardings.


The historic Palladium cinema of Srinagar is now a heap of debris. Burnt and destroyed during armed militancy that visited Kashmir in 1990. A shopping mall is reportedly coming up on the ruins of this cinema hall. Local traders are demanding that a parking place be built after clearing the ruins. Both options give some pain to those who have seen the glory of this cinema hall. Time has to move forward. It can not stop for sentiments. Sentiments are of no value in this market-driven and utility-oriented society.


( Avtar Mota )




          


                                        
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CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
Based on a work at http:\\autarmota.blogspot.com\.

HARMUKH PEAK AND LAKE GANGBAL OF KASHMIR




HARMUKH PEAK AND LAKE GANGBAL OF KASHMIR



                                                                 
I quote from page 25 Volume I English translation of Nilmat Purana by erudite sanskrit scholar Dr Ved Kumari Ghai

"Harmukuta or Harmunda is identified with Harmukh Peaks to the north of kashmir . about 17000 feet in height , these peaks are surrounded by massive Glaciers . The lake Uttarmanasa which is believed to be the source of Kashmiri GANGA , lies at the foot of the north eastern Glaciers of Harmukuta and the Tirthaa of Nandikeshtra and Bhuteshwara are near it."







                                                                                 

  Again at canto 1289 page 323 volume II of Nilmat Purana , it is mentioned as under:-

" By bathing in Uttarmanasa ( Gangbal ) , one gets the merit of the gift of a thousand cows. "

Kashmir 's tallest Sufi poet Shams faqir says

"Shams faqir chhuyya par tseunn ye,
Chhuss naa Doggun Pattah Bronh Kaanh,
Yee sar Goam Tee me Vonuye ,
Harmokh su noan ye Draav "


( Shams faqir is cut of from this world,
He has none as his companion.
None ahead of him and none behind ,
So Whatever he feels he conveys ,
" The lord is clearly visible at Harmukh Peak "


Again this great sufi saint adds :-


Meer e sultaan hoshiar ,
Zeer o Bumm Mashrovnumm.
Tee Guvv Kaar az Kaar
harmokh Vuchhu Deedaar .


Peer e sultaan Asraar
Seer e Haq Taem Bhovnumm,
Hovnumm Noor e Anwaar ,
Harmokh Vuchhu Deedaar.
                                                                                                                                           
Amongst the high altitude treks in kashmir,the most satisfying and beautiful happens to be the one leading to famous and sacred lake GANGBAL ( altitude 13000 feet )or Uttarmanasa as mentioned in Nilmat Purana and Kalhana's Rajtaranagini . The lake lies below the hoary headed mountain Harmukha ( height 17000 feet ).It is approachable from many sides . The traditional route happens to be via Sonamarg _Nichnai _Vishensar and Kishensar lakes _Gaadsar lake and finally Gangbal lake . One almost covers a distance of about 95 Kms on foot in 4-5 days on this route .The shortest route or the route used at present by trekkers is to go via Kangan _ Naran Naag ( Sodar Tirthaa or Bhuteshwar Shrine as mentioned in Neelamat Purana and Kalhana's Rajtarangini ).At Naran Naag one has to climb a steep trek ( about 8 hours covering a distance of about 17 kms ) to reach Gangbal lake .At present there is a motorable road from Kangan to Naran Naag .Horses are also available at Kangan or Naran Naag for Gangabal top. I have also seen( in 2009) people going to Naran Naag by road after crossing sindh stream near the beautiful valley of Prang.You come across many Gujjars and Baklerwals in this area the way you meet Gaddis enroute Mani Mahesh Lake pilgrimage ( lying below Manimahesh Peak in Himachal Pradesh ) .

                                                                                    
As per Dr Ved Kumari Ghai , Neelmat Purana has been composed in 6th or 7th centuary AD. Since this text makes vivid and detailed mention of Harmukuta , Harmukh , Sodar Tirthaa or Nandikheshtra pilgrimage , it is clear that kashmiris have been going for Pilgrimage to this area much before 6th or 7th centuary AD. Kashmiri Pandits have been visiting this lake for centuaries essentially to immerse Mortal remains of their dead relatives and also for performing Shradaa both at Gangbal and also at Naran Naag . .For a kashmiri pandit , Gangabal used to be equivalent to Sacred river Ganga .
                                                                 

Kanak Vahini ( as mentioned in Neelmat Purana and Rajtarangini of kalhana ) or the present day Kreink Nadi which flows to the south of the temple complex of Naran Naag is formed by two tributaries flowing out from two lakes below Harmukh . These lakes are known as NundKol ( Referred to as lake Kalodka in Neelmat Purana and Rajtarangini ) and Gangbal ( Referred to as Uttarmanasa in Neelmat Purana and Rajtarangini .Kalhana mentions Harmukutganga or Harmukha or Nandikheshtra or Nandisa repeatedly in Taranga I ( canto 36,113,148 ) , Taranga II ( canto 169 and 170 ).You can see views of Kreink nadi as it dances down the hills to join Sindh stream below near Kangan.
                                                                                                                                                                         
Entire area from Naran Naag to Harmukh Peaks or Har-Mukuta ( Shiva's Diadem ) is also known as Nandi kheshtra in all sacred texts of kashmiri Pandits . Here in these mountains , one comes across beautiful lakes full of rainbow trout fish in Crystal clear water, Alpine forests , Green meadows and valleys with colourful wild flowers.It is a unique experience to watch sunrise and sunset view of the Harmukh peaks . I am informed by Gujjars that one can easily trek to Gurez ( area inhabited by DARDS ) , Kargil and Holy Amar Nath cave from this area also .In fact Kalhana too mentions in Rajtarangini that king Bhoja of kashmir took shelter in Dard area through this route only.
                                                                                 
About twenty years back these peaks were totally covered with snow and one had to walk over glaciers to reach Gangabal lake . Now things have changed completely . Glaciers have melted away to a large extent .
kashmiri Pandits go for Pilgrimage to this lake on Ganga Ashtami day in the month of Bhadrapada ( a month of Hindu Calender corresponding to August or early september ) . In olden days when Banihal Cart road was nonexistent , Kashmiri Pandits attached Haridwar Like importance to this Teertha and the Pilgrimage . Even after the opening of the Banihal Cart Road , the Pilgrimage to this Teertha continued unabated .I am informed that bones and ashes of dead relatives would be kept in earthenware pitchers in temples or sometimes in homes as well by Pandits to be immersed at suitable and convenient time in Gangabal lake .I am also informed by Gujjars and some elderly Pandits that a huge stone near the bank of the lake had a Shiva Lingam carved out on its surface .

Permit me to conclude this post with two Dohaas ( two line poem ) of Nirguna saint kabir .


Chaahun Diss Paaka Kot Thaa,
Mandir nagar Majhaar ,
Khidkee khidkee Paahru ,
Gaaj bandha Darbaar ,
Chaahun diss Thaade Soormaa,
Haath Liye Hathiyaar ,
Sab hi Yeh tan Dekhtaa ,
Kaal le Gayaa maar.

( Kabir )

I had built a strong and thick wall around,
I had my dwelling in the heart of the city ,
At every window , i did place the guards to protect me ,
At entrance , i did keep the mighty elephants for protection,
In all directions i placed brave soldiers ,
These soldiers had ammunition in their hands to protect me ,
Still i knoweth not where from and how this KAAL ( death ) sprang ,
To conquer and take away my body.
( Autar Mota )

September 21, 2012 Time 12.40 PM..
                                                        
Based on a work at http:\\autarmota.blogspot.com\.