Tuesday, June 23, 2009

SHADIPORA OR THE PRAYAG OF KASHMIR












































































SHADIPORA , THE PRAYAG TEERTHA  OF  KASHMIR

 

River Vitasta of Kashmir finds mention in Rigveda , Kathasaritsagara ,Natyashastra ,Varahpurana and Mahabharata . In Mahabharata we read this :-

 

“If anybody bathes in the waves of the river Vitastā, with vow and fasts, for seven days he would become as pure as a hermit.”

 

 (Mahabharata Anusasana Parva, Chapter 25, Stanza 7)

 

 The Vitasta Mahatmayas inform  that Goddess Uma, Laxmi, Aditi, Sachi, Diti and Ganga along with their spouses  had come to Satisar  to witness  the draining out of the water and killed  of the demon Jalodbhava . Rishi Kashyapa had also requested them to bless the land. The Rishi approached Goddess Uma or Parvati  first who in turn sought the concurrence of Lord Shiva. In Vitasta Mahatmayas, we read this:-

 

“ Parvati requested her consort Lord Shiva; "O, father of the World, I shall assume the form of a river but make a stroke with your spear near the abode of Nila, where O Lord while breaking the mountain was placed the pointed end of the plough. By that stroke, I shall flow to meet the great river, Sindhu."

 

The Nilamata Purana describes the sacredness of  Vitasta River as under :-

 

“ O chief of the kings, those men obtain fame on the earth, who go to the goddess Vitasta, endowed with various bridges, decorated with blue and red lotuses, filled with the sounds of the herds of the cows, resounding with the bellowing-sounds, full of fish and tortoises, possessed of good bathing places, giver of the desired objects, possessed of the water which tastes like nectar, charming to the eyes of men and boon-giver like a mother.”

 

In ancient and mediaeval Kashmir, Vitasta River  was accordingly treated as sacred as Ganga. In the Kotitirtha Mahatmayas of Kashmir, we read this:-

 

 “Here in Kashmir exists Sati ( Goddess Parvati ) herself personified as river Vitasta, who destroys all sins and by merely thinking about whom, one gets the same reward as is received by bathing in holy places of worship. The water of river Saraswati takes three days to purify a man, that of Yamuna takes seven while the water of Ganga purifies a person instantly, but the water of Vitasta has the power to purify even by a mere thought of it.”

 

Also known as Vetha Truvah, the day was celebrated by making offerings of cakes made of rice flour while reading Slokas from Vitasta Mahatmayas. In the evening, the women would go down to the banks of the Vitasta and illuminate them with Diyas ( earthen-ware lamps ). Thus for the Kashmiri Pandits, the Valley remains the land of Shiva while river Vitasta is not only a symbol of Goddess Sati (Parvati ) but also the cradle of their ancient civilization.The festival of Vetha Truvah also finds detailed mention in Tuzik -i -Jahangiri as under:-

 

“On the night of Thursday, 19th, the Kashmiris had lined up with lamps on both sides of Bihat ( Vyath ). It is an ancient custom that every year on this day, everyone. whether rich or poor, whoever has a house on the bank of the river, should light the lamp as done on Shab e Barat. I asked the Brahmans the reasons for this, and they said that this day the fountainhead of the River Jhelum was disclosed and the custom had come down from old days that on this date must take place the festival of Vyath Truvah. Vyath means Jhelum and Truwah means thirteenth: As this day is thirteenth of Shawwal, they light lamps. In this way, they call it Vyath Truvah. Undoubtedly, the lamp lighting was good. I sat in a boat and went round to see it .”

 

( Source page 167 and 168 of  The Tuzuk –i- –Jahangiri or Memoirs of Jahangir translated by Alexender Rogers )

 

About the confluence of rivers in Kashmir , The Nilamata Purana mentions this :-

Holy are all the confluences and the pools of the Nagas. One surely obtains the merit of the gift of hundred Suvarnas by bathing in them. Holy are these sacred places and specially so is the Vitasta. O king, the goddess Vitasta is stated to be purifying everywhere.  O king, the sacred places, the lakes, the rivers, the tanks, the various types of wells, all these come to the boon- giver Vitasta, on the bright thirteenth of Bhadrapada.The Sindhu, the Trikoti, the Visoka, the holy and auspicious river Harsapatha, the holy Sukha, the Candravati, the Sugandha, the sin-destroying Punyodaka, the Kularani, the sin-removing Krsna, the holy Madhumati and the holy river Parosni go to the boon-giver and celestial Vitasta.”

 

About the  sacred confluence of Sindhu and Vitasta at Shadipora , Nilamata Purana writes this :-

"The wise say that by bathing in the confluence of Sindhu and  Vitasta especially on the full moon day of the month of Prausthapada , one obtains the merit of the performance of Ashavmedha ."

 Nilamata Purana mentions the sacredness of every lake , every river and every stream of Kashmir. About the sacredness of Erin stream that pours into Wular Lake, Nilamata Purana writes this:-

 

  One gets the merit of (performing) Asvamedha, especially on full-moon day, (by bathing) at the place where Hiranya ( Erin )  meets the holy lake Mahapadma ( Wular ) . 

 

The Vitasta River  (Vyeth in Kashmiri  Hydaspes in Greek) originates from  Verinag spring  situated at the foothills of the Banihal pass .It flows through the Kashmir valley . In its journey upto  Anantnag town, 3 major tributaries viz. Sandran , Bringi  and Arapath  streams join it. As  the river moves downwards  to join  the  Wular Lake  , it meets  five   important streams  . 

 

The  Lidder being the first ,  joins  Vitasta  near Khannabal . Lidder  brings  the water of Sheshnag and Tarsar lakes  from  Pahalgham side.  The  Lidder stream is  formed at Pahalgam by the merger of the  Aru stream  that comes from the Kolahoi glacier with  the Chandanwari stream that  originates from the   Sheshnag Lake. The water from sacred spring of Mattan Teertha also joins the Lidder stream before it merges into the Vitasta River

 

Next comes  the Veshav stream , which joins Vitasta  near Bijbihara . This confluence occurs just 2 Km away from Bijbihara town and this  place is  known as Sangam in Kashmir .  There is a bridge over the  Vitasta River near this place . This bridge is also  known as ‘Sangam Bridge’. The origin of  Veshav is Kounsernag Lake in Pir Panjal range . Kounsernag is also considered the abode of Shiva . The  Veshav  stream  passes through Aharabal , Shopian , Khudwani and Arwani area before merging into the  Vitasta River .

 

The third stream  to join Vitasta is  Rambiara  that emerges from Pir Panjal range   and  moves through Shopian district before it merges into  the Veshav stream near Naiyana about 2 km upstream from  Sangam near Bijbihara  . 

 

The fourth stream to join the  Vitasta River  is  the  Doodhganga stream . It takes its origin on the eastern  slopes of the Pir Panjal mountain range of Himalaya  below the Tatakuti peak . Flowing through the beautiful  Yusmarg, Doodhganga is a gorgeous river known for its water that appears milky in colour. The Doodhganga and  the Shaliganga streams arise from Sang-e-safed in the central Pir Panjal range merge with the ‘Flood Spill Channel’ constructed in 1904 which diverts flood waters from the Vitasta River  at Shivpora towards the Hokarsar wetlands. 

 

The fifth and major confluence occurs at Shadipora where Sindh  stream joins  the Vitasta River . The Sindh stream brings water of  Panchtarini stream from the holy Amar Nath cave and then adds to it the water from the holy shrine of Kheer Bhawani brought by Tulamula Nallah. Tulamula  Nallah joins the Sindh stream a little above the Shadipora Sangam . Panchtarini stream is formed by five small streams emerging from glaciers near the  holy  Amarnath Cave . Sindh stream is not to be confused with the mighty Indus or Sindh River . These are two different  streams / rivers . One being the mighty river originating from Kailash Mansarovar and going to Pakistan via Ladakh while the other being a small stream originating from inner Himalayas somewhere near Drass and joining  the Vitasta River  at Shadipopra near Sumbal. The water of Kreink Nadi  (Kanak Vahini as mentioned in Nilamata Purana and Rajtarangini of Kalhana )  which flows to the south of the temple complex of Naran-nag is formed by two tributaries flowing out from two lakes below Harmukh glacier  . These lakes are known as Nundkol  ( referred to as lake Kalodka in Neelmat Purana and Rajtarangini ) and Gangbal  ( referred to as Uttarmanasa in Neelmat Purana and Rajtarangini .Kalhana mentions Harmukutganga or Harmukha or Nandikheshtra or Nandisa repeatedly in Taranga I  verse  36,113,148  and  Taranga II verse  169 and 170 ).Kreink Nadi  joins  Sindh stream  near Kangan in Kashmir .  .Finally  the Sindh stream  merges into  Vitasta  at Shadipora   .This confluence is known as Prayaag . At the merger spot , one can observe two  distinct colours of water of mixing to create a single colour of the Vitasta river  that flows down from Shadipora .

 

Below Shadipora , some more streams join the  Vitasta River.  The Pohru stream , originating  from the Lolab Valley in north south direction and flowing through  the Kupwara district  , joins  the Vitasta River  about 6.5 Km downstream of  the Sopore town. The  Ningle stream also joins  the Vitasta River  near Baramulla. This beautiful stream named as Ningle  passes close to   Gulmarg  . It gets its water from the melting ice caps of the Alpathar Lake and Apharwat Lake in the summer season.

Then we have the  Madhumati stream that  flows through the town of Bandipore in Kashmir.  .Finding   detailed mention in Kalhana ‘s Rajataringani ,  the Madhumati  stream  empties itself into the Wular lake. The Vitasta River also  joins Wular Lake from one end  and then  exits  from it from the other end  . The  Erin stream also joins Vitasta in  Wular lake.

 

The Kishenganga River  joins Vitasta near Muzzafarabad town in POK. Kishanganga  originates  from Krishansar Lake in the vicinity of Sonamarg in Kashmir . In Pakistan occupied Kashmir , it is known as Neelum. There are some more streams flowing in Kashmir that join the Vitasta River. These can be listed as the   Sukhnag stream near Dodhpathri, the Ferozepur stream near Tangmarg, the Dagwan stream from Marsar Lake flowing through Dachigam National Park and the Arpat stream (Kol) near Tral. These small streams also join the  Vitasta River . The Sansara and Romshi  streams also merge into the  Vitasta River near Kakapora before  it reaches Srinagar .

 

Kashmiri Pandits attach great sanctity to the confluence at Shadipora which is about 21 km from Srinagar city. Shadipora is approached through  Srinagar -Baramulla road . At Narabal,  one has to take the right turn and go about 10 km via the Bandipora road to reach this village . To reach the exact confluence point boats are readily available at  Shadipora Ghat on the Vitasta River.

 

Kashmiri Pandits believe that  Vitasta at Shadipora is full of holy water brought from all the mountains , lakes, glaciers , streams  and springs of the Kashmir valley . This blending of holy waters of all the lakes. streams ,ponds  and springs of Kashmir at Shadipora, imparts great  sanctity to this ancient Teertha . Kashmiri Pandits call it Prayag. They used to consign the ashes/ mortal remains  of their dearest and loved ones to the holy waters of Prayag at Shadipora.

Kashmiri Pandits consider  the Sindh stream as  sacred  Ganga and   Vitasta  to be another name of river Yamuna. This belief is also supported by verses 305-306 -307 appearing in Nilamata  Purana. i quote :-

" Bound by affection , Tapana's daughter , the goddess Ganga , due to great respect and devotion for the sage , augmented with her own part the Vitatsa , the best of the rivers , the destroyer of all sins . The Sindhu should be regarded as Ganga and the Vitasta should be regarded as the Yamuna .The place where the confluence of these two , should be regarded as equal to Prayaga. " 

 There is a Chinar tree that stands on a small island exactly at the confluence spot. This Chinar tree  is surrounded by water on all sides. One has to come to this Chinar tree in a boat and go up some steps to have a commanding view of the confluence . The Shiva-Linga lying under the shade of this Chinar tree since ages  is also worshipped  .The Prauag  Chinar tree is considered mystical and sacred by Kashmiri Pandits . Even if the river is in flood , this tree never sinks . It is said that with any rise in water level around it, the Chinar tree, mysteriously rises in height . Kashmiris call it ’Prayagitch Booen’.

 

About this Chinar tree and the confluence , Dr Shashi Shekhar Toshkhani says this :-

 

“ Kashmiri Pandits believe it to be a magical tree which "neither becomes taller, nor shorter, nor bigger" –‘Prayaagachy boony na thadaan, na loktaan, na badaan’ as the Kashmiri proverb says. The Pandits believe that the tree has remained of the same size for centuries. .The Chinar tree of Prayaag stands on a small island – ‘just big enough to pitch your tent on’ in the midst of the confluence. .As Aurel Stein has pointed out, the Nilamata Purana identifies the Sindhu River with the Ganga and the Vitasta with the Yamuna. That is why the confluence has been given the name Prayaag : ‘Ganga Sindus tu vijneya Vitasta Yamuna Tatha.’ ”


Across the river there is a Bhairava Temple in the area called Narayan Bagh.This ancient tmple is believed to have been a Teertha and managed as an Agrahara during the rule of Hindu Kings. Agrahara was a grant of land and royal income from it, typically by a king or a noble family in India, for religious purposes, particularly to Brahmins to maintain temples in that land or a pilgrimage site and to sustain their families. 
                                                                          

                                                                          
( Bhairava Temple 1 )
( Bhairava Temple 2)

DASHHAR   AT   SHADIPORA

The Dashhar  at Shadipora is something like  the  Maha Kumbh  at Prayaag ,Allahabad . According to  the Hindu mythology, Dashhar  at Shadipora takes place when there is a celestial configuration of ten  planets .  This particular combination takes place after every  75 years .Last Dashhar observed at this place was  in June 2016. Before that , it was held in 1941. In June 2016, about  ten  thousand pilgrims participated in the  Dashhar . In 1941 , Maharaja Hari Singh,  the then ruler of the  state of Jammu And Kashmir personally attended the Dashhar  festivities at Shadipora . Elaborate arrangements were also made by the Maharaja's Government  for the pilgrims. As per records ,about one  lakh pilgrims visited Shadipora for Dashhar of  1941.

During the Dashhar,  pilgrims take a dip in  the water  at the  sacred  confluence of Sindhu and Vitasta apart from performing Shradha of their nears and dears who are no more in this world. While moving in this area in a boat , one gets a feeling of  having placed himself  to the caring openness of  the Vitasta River. The feeling is similar to the boat ride of Prayag  near Allahabad . I visited this place in 2012 . I was pensive and thoughtful in the boat ride   as my memory rolled back 30 years. I vividly remember drenching myself in heavy rains  while consigning the ashes of my dear father to the  holy waters at  this confluence.

 

 


                                                                 
                                                  ( Dashhar 2016.. 1 )
                                                       ( Dashhar 2016.. 2 )
                                                             ( Dashhar 2016.. 3 )
                                                          ( Dashhar 2016.. 4 )
                                                          ( Dashhar 2016..5 )
                                                           ( Dashhar 2016.. 6 )
                                                              ( Dashhar 2016.. 7 )
                                                          ( Dashhar 2016.. 8 )
                                                        ( Dashhar 2016.. 9 )
                                                          ( Dashhar 2016.. 10 )
                                                        ( Dashhar 2016.. 11 )
 

                                                       ( Dashhar 2016.. 12 )

 

I conclude this post with the  prophetic words of Aurel Stein. I quote :-

 

"Old Kashmir festivals mentioned in the Nilamata, you will understand how difficult it must be for an European scholar to learn about these rites, also how great the risk is now a days of such old festivals and other ceremonies being lost for good under the sad changes which are taking place in Kashmir."

( Avtar Mota )


 PS
( This write up has been updated in 2016 . Some Photographs of Dashhar 2016 have also been  uploaded. For these photographs , i remain indebted to Dr Advaitvadini  Koul and  Sri Utpal Koul from Rainawari who clicked these photographs and participated in the  June 2016 Dashhar at Shadipora  .Apart from Dashhar 2016 photographs , other  photographs uploaded by me  show  exact confluence point  , Shadipora Ghats , Narayanu Bagh , The Shiva Lingam at Prayag Chinar , and the confluence views of the Vitasta River  and Sindhu clicked  by me in June 2009 . )