Wednesday, February 13, 2013

SIR DAVID LEAN VISITED KASHMIR IN 1983


                 


  SIR DAVID LEAN (1908-1991)   IN SRINAGAR, KASHMIR      

David Lean(1908-1991) was an accomplished craftsman  of cinema whose far-reaching historical epics were mere backdrops for the larger-than-life characters that populated his films. He helmed some of the greatest movies ever made by Hollywood. Born in Croydon, London, Lean began in the film industry as a clapperboard boy working his way up to become an editor of news programmes and fictional features. His early directorial successes came about through collaboration with Noel Coward and the pair worked together on four films: In Which We Serve (1942), This Happy Breed (1944), Blithe Spirit (1945) and Brief Encounter (1945). Following excellent adaptations of Charles Dickens' "Great Expectations" (1946) and "Oliver Twist" (1948), Lean went into a bit of a lull that nonetheless saw him make the compelling romantic drama "Summertime" (1955). But what followed was a series of films that cemented his place as one of the greatest directors of all time. After suffering a critical drubbing with his next film, "Ryan's Daughter" (1970), Lean waited 14 years to release his next film, "A Passage to India" (1984), which was a welcome return to the epic landscape .About David Lean, Geoffery Macnab writes this in  Independent ( Issue  dated 29 June  2008) :-

“ When David Lean left London for Paris in the spring of 1955, the film-maker's finances were in a parlous state. The 47-year-old had separated from his wife, the actor Ann Todd (whom he was to divorce two years later), while the taxman was clamouring for payment of £20,000 – an astronomical amount for those days – in unpaid dues.The details of Lean's financial problems are contained in Gene D Phillips's thorough biography, Beyond the Epic, which reveals that while he may have been among the most celebrated film-makers in British film history, in the mid-1950s, at least, Lean certainly wasn't one of the richest. The director of Brief Encounter couldn't even afford to have his teeth fixed and, at one stage, was reduced to pawning his gold cigarette case.

The British film industry wasn't exactly thriving during this period either. The Rank Organisation (Lean's main patron) was in a period of retrenchment; the extravagance and artistic ambition of the 1940s, when Rank had tried to gate-crash the American market with a series of big-budget "prestige" pictures made by the likes of Lean and Powell and Pressburger were long forgotten.At Pinewood Studios, the emphasis was now on Norman Wisdom comedies, Doctor in the House and stiff upper-lipped war movies. Gone were the days when – as Lean enthused of the time he was filming the Dickens adaptations Great Expectations (1946) and Oliver Twist (1948) – he and his collaborators in the Rank stable could "make any subject we wish, with as much money as we think that subject should have spent on it... cast whichever actors we choose and have no interference with the way the film is made". Yet, while his erstwhile colleagues floundered, Lean reinvented himself as the director of widescreen spectacles such as The Bridge on the River Kwai (1957), Lawrence of Arabia (1962) and Doctor Zhivago (1965). And so the young man who once used to sit chain-smoking in the refreshment room of Victoria Station, because he didn't want to go home to Croydon after venturing into town to see the latest movie, became a film-maker feted in Hollywood and Britain alike.

It was Lean's genius that he took an international perspective at a time when other British film-makers were becoming increasingly insular. He had the vision and ruthlessness to work on an epic scale. He also had plenty of reason to escape Britain: his acrimonious divorce from Todd may have left him broke, but it gave him as compelling a reason to look further afield as his disenchantment with the British film industry.”

In 1983, we saw  David Lean (1908-1991) in Srinagar looking for locations and shooting sequences for his cinematic adaption of E M Forster’s novel ‘A Passage to India ‘.David Lean had read the novel and seen the play in London in 1960, and, impressed, attempted to purchase the rights at that time, but Forster, who rejected Santha Rama Rau's suggestion to allow Indian film director Satyajit Ray to make a film, said ‘no’. Following Forster's death in 1970, the governing board of fellows of King's College at Cambridge inherited the rights to his books. In March 1981, John Brabourne and his business partner, Richard Goodwin, obtained the rights to make a film adaptation of A Passage to India. The contract stipulated that Santha Rama Rau write the screenplay and it reserved the right to approve the director.Brabourne, an admirer of the film Doctor Zhivago, wanted David Lean to direct the film. Lean was ready to break his 14-year hiatus from filmmaking following mostly negative reviews received for Ryan's Daughter in 1970.

E M Forster began writing A Passage to India during a stay in India from late 1912 to early 1913 (he was drawn there by a young Indian Muslim, Syed Ross Masood, whom he had tutored in Latin), completing it only after he returned to India as secretary to a Maharajah in 1921. The novel was published on 6 June 1924. It differs from Forster's other major works in the overt political content, as opposed to the lighter tone and more subdued political subtext in works such as ‘Howards End and ‘A Room With a View ’. ‘A Passage To India’ deals with the delicate balance between the English and the Indians during the British Raj. It is generally regarded as Forster's best novel, quickly becoming a classic of English literature.

 In Srinagar ,David Lean was seen at Fateh Kadal, Zaina Kadal and also at various locations in and around Srinagar city. We also saw an advertisement appearing in the 'Srinagar Times', a leading Urdu daily published from Srinagar, requesting residents in the downtown area of the city to pull down their rooftop TV antennas to give the old city a 1920 look needed for shooting some sequences. Almost everyone obliged.  David Lean visited some localities saying this :-

“ Salaam! Namaste ! can you bring down that TV antenna for some days to enable me to shoot some sequences for a movie? ”

He was seen shooting on Srinagar- Baramulla road, Fateh Kadal,  or inside Nigeen and Dal lake with Victor Banerjee.  Lean , film director, scriptwriter and a producer  is remembered for his classics like ‘Lawrence of Arabia', 'The bridge on River Kwai 'and 'Dr Zhivago'. "Doctor Zhivago" (1965) was a massive box office success that managed to tell a deeply intense personal romance set against the large scale turbulence of Soviet Russia .

In Kashmir ,we saw him shooting with his wife Sandy who played the role of Stella, actor Alec Guinness who played the role of Prof Godbole, James Fox who played the role of Mr Fielding and Victor Banerjee who played the role of Dr Aziz in the movie. Satyajit Ray had recommended Victor Banerjee for the role of Dr Aziz. The houseboat sequences with Dr Aziz and Mr Fielding were shot inside the  Dal Lake . Victor Banerjee was seen in Churidaar Pyjama and a Sherwani. An old vintage car was also brought to the shooting venues. The movie had some other actors like Peggy Ashcroft, Judy Davis, Roshan Seth, Saeed Jaffrey and Art Malik. The movie was produced by John Brabourne whose father had been a Viceroy in India (who also happened to be son in law of Lord Mountbatten ). The movie was distributed by Columbia Pictures and was finally released in 1984. This was the final film of Lean's career, and the first feature-film he had directed in fourteen years, since Ryan's Daughter in 1970. Receiving universal critical acclaim upon its release with many praising it as Lean's finest since Lawrence of Arabia, A Passage To India received eleven nominations at the Academy Awards, including Best Picture, Best Director for Lean, and Best Actress for Judy Davis for her portrayal as Adela Quested. Peggy Ashcroft won the Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress for her portrayal as Mrs Moore, making her, at 77, the oldest actress to win the award, and Maurice Jarre won his third Academy Award for Best Original Score.

I was also informed by a friend in the Tourism Department, Kashmir that he had personally seen John Byrum ( born 1947 ),another giant writer-director from Hollywood ,shooting sequences for his movie ‘The Razor’s Edge’ in Srinagar at that point in time. David Lean and John Byrum had a chance meeting in the dining room of the then Hotel Oberoi Palace in Srinagar. So much was Byrum happy to see David Lean that he called this chance meeting as  ‘meeting Lord Shiva  in Kashmir’ .

   While replying to Mark Tully’s question (for a BBC interview) , “ How much difference is there between Lean's 'Passage To India' and Forster's 'Passage To India'? ”  David Lean has clarified as under:-

“ He's a writer, I'm a filmmaker. I like movies, and I've tried to make a movie that I would like to see. The end is different, certainly, but I think I wouldn't be ashamed for Forster to read the script. I think I stuck with his characters, and on the whole, given the limitations of time, I mean what's one doing? One's doing something in 2 hours, a book that thick, its a sort of sketch of it, and I'm extracting a movie from it. Those who want to read Forster, read the book. Those who want to go to a movie, and don't read, come and see our film.”


                                                                            
                                           ( Sir David lean shooting in Srinagar city 1983 )

                                                                           
                                                                    ( John Byrum  )
 David Lean immersed himself completely in India to resurrect on screen what remains the  best-known novel written about the country by a foreigner. For him, the urge to reach out to the heart of India was perhaps as great as Forster's. Like Forster whose last big creation the novel was, this film was also Lean's last. About David Lean , Peter B  Flint wrote this in ‘ The New York Times ‘ of April 17, 1991:-

 “A tall, trim man with angular features, keen eyes and a booming voice,  David Lean made films with a furious concentration. He called movie making "a terrific thrill, a kick" and said the hardest element of it was ‘finding a story to fall in love with.’ Lean was a meticulous craftsman noted for technical wizardry, subtle manipulation of emotions, superb production values, authenticity and taste. He was one of the very few directors who edited his own films, and he also adapted or co-adapted half a dozen of them.

“History, will you mention us
In your faded scroll?

For the hardship and affliction
We do not seek rewards,
Nor do we want our pictures
In the calendar of years.

Just tell our story simply
To those we shall not see,
Tell those who will replace us -
We fought courageously.”…….(
From a poem of Bulgarian poet  Nikola Vaptsarov )


                                                         

( Avtar Mota )

                                                      
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Tuesday, February 12, 2013

YOU SHALL ALWAYS LIKE THIS "KALAADI " MADE FROM MILK





                                                                             

 Photo Autar Mota ( Feb. 2013.)                                                                  

kalaadi from samroli near chenani



 Kalaadi ( Maaesh-Kraar in kashmiri ) is made from milk kept in containers .Cold or lukewarm milk is turned sour  to make Kalaadi . It is looks  like cheese but tastes something between cheese and curd. It is easily available from Gujjars  in Pirpanjal Hills. It is also  easily available in Jammu city as well.  Infact 90% of kalaadi in jammu comes from Udhampur district only. One can have this tasty stuff at Singh Cafeteria Udhampur as well but Samroli( Near Chenani in Udhampur District of J&K  ) kalaadi is perhaps the tastiest  and fresh.

 I have also tasted  the  chapati type kalaadi in shopian kashmir and Pahalghaam  . The Jammu hills stuff is a kulcha type of kalaadi. If the chapatti type  kalaadi from Kashmir is to be fried in oil,the  Kulcha type kalaadi from Jammu is just to be put on a Tawa . Press it . It releases its Ghee mor oil content  . Fry it but keep pressing and changing  sides . Pressing flattens it . Add a pinch of salt and Sauce  Or stuff it inside a Paranthaa. Munch and relish.

( Autar Mota )

12th Feb 2013.Time 11.30 PM Good Night 

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Sunday, February 10, 2013

CHENANI - NASHRI TUNNEL PROJECT IN JAMMU AND KASHMIR STATE


                                                                     

CHENANI  NASHRI  TUNNEL PROJECT  In J&K


LEIGHTON WELSPUN or LW called by many over here is engaged in  excavation work  for  the Tunnel at Chenani  about 90 kms from Jammu on Jammu Srinagar National Highway.. Excavation work from the  other side  has also started at Nashri bridge. LEIGHTON  is   Australia's largest project development and contracting group   while WELSPUN is their Indian collaborator . This 13.3 metre wide tunnel shall create space for movement of 2 way traffic. There shall be a 5 metre  wide rescue track for any eventuality. Once through, vehicular traffic to srinagar shall miss and bypass places like Kud,Patni Top and Batote.  

We visited the project site in 2012 anag again in Feb 2013.We also  met official of LW at their beautiful office in Chenani forest. Indian, Australian and European  Technocrats work with a missionary zeal for this project. Sprawling office, Broadband  connectivity, Neat chambers, efficient gensets , state of art communication  network, well paid employees, well maintained  staff  quarters, search lights,Neat and clean staff Canteens, No smoking, Punctuality and above all work orientation impresses you..

 We were   informed that Chiv Keng  wife and Charis Loiuse Waugh  daughter of Russell Waugh, Managing director of Leighton Welspun Contractors Pvt. Ltd. were personally present at Chenani on 2nd September 2011 at the time of  start of the first section of  this  Tunnel project . Its construction is estimated to cost about INR37.2bn ($723m).   This tunnel is being built  using  NATM technique . This technology  has also been used by IRCON in  Banihaal Tunnel .A team of over 800 staff and 200 strong work force, armed with sophisticated drilling machines, are daily  boring  around 5 metres of the main tunnel and 8 metres of the escape route.The Tunnel shall shorten Jammu- Srinagar distance by  31 kms  thereby  saving one hour of Journey time. . The  expected time of completion of this 9 kms long  Tunnel is  about 5 years.
The  officials of LEIGHTON WELSPUN added 
 “Workers are being provided free food and transportation, while the agency has kept two ambulances available for meeting any eventuality. 50% work has been completed  and 30 per cent of the project cost Rs.2627 crore has been booked so far.”
( Autar Mota )
 10th Feb. 2013… Time 11.35 PM Good Night..



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BUMZOO CAVES NEAR MATTAN KASHMIR











                                                         
 PHOTOGRAPHS  By Autar Mota 


BUMZOO is a small sleepy village just two killometres from Mattan in Lidder valley. In case you go to Pahalgham from Anantnag via Mattan Bye pass , the village is exactly where the Mattan link road intersects the main road .Two caves of Bumzoo are worth mentioning . One cave is just 1.5 Kms from Mattan town . This cave is about 7 metres from road height and is wider once you enter . After about 15 metres it branches into two further caves , one straight and the other to the left. one comes across some man made stone structures in both these caves . It appears that they could have been used by meditating hermits .Nothing more attracts your attention . Yes the cave is pitch dark , Full of insects and foul smell.As a matter of fact one needs to go inside carefully . You need torches , jackets and shoes . You also need to cover your nose and head. The cave has paucity of oxygen . I went without aids and had to bear acute throat infection for one full month. My other friends Ashok khazanchi and Ashwini Bangroo went well prepared later on . Nothing needs to be photographed in this cave . The entrance of the cave is visible on right side of the base of the hill from road at a point just 1.5 km from Mattan Bazar.


 The other cave is the Old shiva temple of Bumzoo . kalhana too makes mention of this cave temple in his Rajtaringini.The temple is about 50 feet from road overlooking river Lidder.The temple is inside an natural enlarged fissure of limestone cliff.The door of the temple has the usual Hindu Triad (found in Kashmir Stone temples )at the top flanked by two stone carved window type structures . In front of the gate is a gallery or verandah for sitting and the same is fenced now. The Verandah or the gallery is tiled with Devri stones. A flight of about 150 steps takes you up from the road to the Cave entrance . Inside the cave lies a plinth at the extreme corner where a small shiva temple approached by a short flight of steps exists . This cave is not as long as the first cave but is quite high and wide . It is also not so dark. This cave temple is a protected monument looked after by archeological survey of india . This cave temple is older to 8th centuary Martand Sun temple built by king Lalitaditya .A smaller cave also exists at the bottom of this cave temple but it is insignificant and has been closed with wooden gate.I have photographed this cave temple from many sides . The road below the cave temple has also been photographed .The view appearing a little darker is innner view of the shiva temple with steps leading to the santum sanctorum . I end this post with a  Kurdish poem "Tunnel "by  Sherko Bekas..

 (Tunnel )
Beneath the surface of this exhausted
and wounded soul
the hours of exile
are like the wagons of a train
connected to each other.
Every day they travel back and forth.
At the station of waiting, at the station of farewell
their restless doors continuously
open and close me.
Every pain that gets off
is replaced by a hundred new ones.
Such a long tunnel of exile! where is it leading me?
Tears well up behind my eyes, but it is leading me.,
leading me., leading me
(  Sherko Bekas ...Translated from original Kurdish  )

Autar Mota 
10th Feb. 2013  Time 11 PM Good Night 


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Tuesday, February 5, 2013

POSHA POOZA OR FLOWER PETAL SHOWERING IN KASHMIRI PANDIT MARRIAGE


                                                                  

POSHA POOZA OR FLOWER PETAL SHOWERING IN KASHMIRI PANDIT MARRIAGE CEREMONY.


 Posha Pooza or flower petal showering  is a unique tradition in Kasmiri Pandit marriage ceremony. This is done after the bride and bridegroom make  seven rounds  of the sacred fire burnt  for performing the LAGNA .The bride  first puts flower petals over the groom’s  head where after the boy repeats the same by putting some flower petals over the bride’s head. 
                                                                                       

                                                                               
                                                                             


The bride and bride groom are then  made to sit close by  and a shawl  or a cloth preferably of red colour is put over them . Close relatives of the bride and bridegroom join together in showering  platefuls of  flower petals over them amidst chanting of  SHLOKAS especially in praise of   SHIVA  and PARVATI . 
 Pandit  Rugh Nath Kokiloo ( A shaiva scholar from kashmir )  once clarified that  this tradition of Posha  Pooza is unique and prevalent in  Kashmir only and is performed  due to   influence  of kashmir’s glorious Shaivism . The bride and bridegroom are worshiped  as  Shiva and Parvati  by those present  .The marriage ceremony comes to end once  Posh Pooza  is performed . It is traditionally performed after the Dayya  Bataa  ( God’s Food ) ceremony  wherein both Bride and bridegroom take freshly cooked food from the same plate signifying their union .



( Autar Mota )

5th Feb 2013. Time 0.20 AM  Good Night. 
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Monday, February 4, 2013

PADMA SACHDEV : A POETESS OF DUGGAR LAND WITH UNIVERSAL APPEAL ..


                                                                    

PADMA SACHDEV. I LIKE AND ADMIRE HER POETRY.




Padamshri Padma sachdev is a stalwart among modern Dogri poets from jammu. Born in 1940 in Purmandal Town (  situated On the Banks of  sacred river Devak )  about 39 Kms from jammu ,she  happens to be the eldest of three children of Prof. Jai Dev Baru a Sanskrit scholar . Padma ji  writes in Hindi as well. Apart from poetry , she has also written some Novels and short  stories .In 1969 ,She published her first collection of poems with an introduction by well known Hindi poet, Ram Dhari Singh Dinkar.He wrote :


 “Padma ki kavita sun kar mujhe laga mein apni kalam phaink doon kyoonki jo batein Padma kahati hai, wahi asli kavita hai”.

(Reading the poems of Padma, I felt I should throw away my pen because the things Padma says is real poetry.)



 Thereafter she published five more collections of her poems at regular intervals — Tawi Te Chanhaan in 1976, Nehriyan Galiyan in 1982, Pota Pota Nimbal in 1987, Uttarbaihni in 1992 and Tainthiyaan in 1999. The titles of her books are emblematic and noteworthy. Padma ji can also understand and speak  kashmiri.
                                                                            
                      (Padma sachdev, Dinesh Nadini Dalmia and Ram Niwas Mirdha.)
 (Two Eminent Dogras..Tabla Maestro late ustaad Allah Rakha on his right is Padma sachdev and on his left is Mrs Allah Rakha.)



                                                                        ( Padma Ji )

(Sheikh Mohd Abdullah, Begum Abdullah, Ramanand sagar, Dalip Kumar, Urdu writer Krishen Chander , Padma Sachdev and  Shamim Ahmed Shamim MP .. Mumbai 1975)

Her poems have been sung by Lata Mangeshkar with whom she enjoys a close rapport.She is recipient of the prestigious Sahitya Academy award apart from many other awards like Soviet land Nehru Award and UP state Hindi Academy Puruskar   etc. etc. Padma Ji ‘s favorite Dogri poet is none other than  Padamshri Prof. Ram Nath Shastri (1914-2009). He was "Father of Dogri",  a prolific and multifaceted personality . Poet, dramatist, actor, fiction writer, lexicographer, essayist, educationist, translator and  an editor for over 6 decades.  Padama ji adds

“Professor Ramnath Shastri is the Bharatendu Harishchandra of Dogri. There is not a single person, who is writing in Dogri now has not been influenced by him Not a single word is there in Dogri on which his stamp has not been registered.”

Her personal life has been just fight against odds. A battle with Tuberculosis for which she was admitted to  Chest Diseases Hospital In Drogjan Dagate ( Kashmir ) for 3 years  and a failed marriage with  Ved Pal Deep eminent Dogri Poet and editor of  urdu daily SANDESH published from Jammu . A letter from Bakshi  Ghulam Mohd the then chief Minister of J&K got her a job of Dogri News reader in All India Radio New Delhi and  then her marriage with classical singer Sardar Surrinder Singh Sachdev (  Singh Bandhus ) who also worked as Duty officer AIR New Delhi.

I post a sample poem of this great poet of our state .

( Peeda Da Dabbaa)
Siir Jedaa Dikhaa De Ho
Siir Nayee Eay,
Dabaa Eay Peeda Da ..
Chhanakdaa Eay Chhankanay Aalaa Lekhaa,
Peeda Eiday Tche Go’l Go’l Phirdee eay,
Dhuun Jan Uthdaa Eay,
Mushaq Jan Ondhii Eay,
Peedaan Te Ho’r Bhi Badiyaan Ne,
Kish Chetay Diyaan ,
Kish Beitay Diyaan,
Jeiday Na Rakhan Huunday ne
Na Suuttan Huunday Ne
Kish ajjay di Peed
Kish Kalley Di
Par
Ikk Peed Ho’r Bhi Eay
Jeiddi Chhanakdi nayee,
Chhadi Huundi Eay,
Eay Peed Ouss Dukhey Di Eay
Jedaa Aoon Huun Tugii Nayee du’ssdi

( Padma sachdev)

Box of Pain

This head
That you see on my shoulders
Is not my head
It's a box of pain
It jingles like a jingle box
Pain moves in it round and round
Smoke rises
It smells
Like the smell of a pyre.
There are other pains too
Several of them
Some of memories
Some of secrets
That cannot be kept
Nor thrown away
Some pains of today
Some of yesterday.
But
There is another pain also
Which doesn't make a sound
Which is only there
This pain is of that suffering
Which I do not share with you any more.

          
 (Translated from Dogri by Shivnath A poem from “ Nehriyaan Galiyaan” ( Dark Lanes ) , a collection of Dogri Poems by Padma Sachdev. Wonderful Poems. Some intense and moving . Some emerging straight from her Heart. The Book has a beautiful Foreward by Dr Harivansh Rai Bachan .)


I conclude this post with  some lines from Padma ji ''s Dogri poem' Des Nikaala' or' Exiled'... 'Des Nikaala' has been my favourite Dogri poem.

Sang saathnaan gali Bidesh huyii
Aaoon babulaa ki pardes huyii
Ohka Soha nahin Ohka syaala nahin.,
Miggi maarda koyee bhi Aala nahin
........... Kunn Aakhdaa Des nikaala nahin.

(padma sachdev)

My simple english rendering of the above  lines would be ...

Away have I moved From companions, friends and those streets,
Like a daughter, O father, I stand shelved to distant lands,
Denied to me are the summers and winters of that land,
And over here, none comes calling for me.
Who says I have not been Exiled ?
( Autar Mota )

PS

Dinesh Nadini was wife of Industrialist Ram Krishen Dalmia the Head of Dalmia Empire. Dinesh Nadini was a well known Hindi poet,short story writer and Novelist. She was recipient of Padma Bushan for her creative work. Dalmias were great patrons of Music, literature and other Arts.Ram niwas Mirdha was a well known minister in central cabinet..A connoisseur of fine Arts, Mirdha served as chairman of sangeet Natak Academy.
                                                                        


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