BEAUTIFUL MINI KASHMIR IN JAMMU PROVINCE KNOWN AS BHADERWAH

        

"The happy region-the prettiest country ever seen in the mountains." Sir G.T.Vigne, who toured this region in 1842 A.D., described Bhaderwah in these words .


“Tracing his ancestral roots Mr. Azad said that his great grandfather had migrated from the Valley of Breng in Anantnag  to district Doda, around 150 years ago. He said that the people of the two areas shared same culture, tradition and history”

From http://jammukashmir.nic.in/view/june22. Website of jammu and Kashmir .

“Jenab this is Chhotaa kashmir( Mini Kashmir ) . You can find Kouls , Misris , Rainas , Razdans , Zutshis and many other kashmiri Pandits living peacefully since ages . You shall also find Zargars  , Bandays , Nayaks , Misgars , Wanis , Bhats , Ahangars ,Mirs and Dars amongst kashmiri muslims also living happily . Most of the kashmiris living here have migrated out in middle of Nineteenth Century from Anantnag district due to recurring Famines and failure of the then rulers to come to the rescue of starving villagers .” Said Ghulam Nabi Bhat who met me near Jamia Mosque Bhaderwah .

Bhaderwah also know as “Nagon ki bhoomi” means ‘ land of Snakes '.  The Bhaderwah Town ( Nagar Bhaderwah ) was known as Hettary Nagar and prior to that, there were two other towns namely Donga nagar and Udho Nagar. Bhadarwah was ruled by "Naga Dynasty"  The powerful kingdom of Bhadu Bilawar also  existed  in nearby Hills and its rulers conquered and annexed the states of Bhaderwah and  Basohli to their Kingdom. Prince Radhk was given the state of Bhaderwah and he ruled it calling himself Raja Lakshmi Dev. He  shifted his  capital to Bhaderwah proper called Nagar. The last king of this dynasty was "Pahar Chand".In 1821 AD Bhaderwah became the part of Jand K State. When Maharaja Partap Singh was crowned as king, Bhaderwah was given as "Jageer" to his younger brother Raj Amar Singh.

                                                                        

                                         

Bhaderwah is also known as Chhotaa Kashmir ( Mini Kashmir ) in jammu and Kashmir state .It is a beautiful valley with hills of Kishtawar in its north , Chamba ( HP ) in its east , Basholi area of jammu near river Ravi in its south and Chenani area of Udhampur district in its west. One can safely call this place as a queen of hills . Perched at a height of about 5300 feet from sea level and surrounded by snow clad hills with Deodaar forests on all sides , this area has a unique history and culture .You find kashmiri Pandits , kashmiri speaking Muslims , Gaddis , Thakkars ,  Wazirs , Kotwals , Parihars , Chib and Manhas Rajputs , Khatris from Punjab ,Mahajans and Bhaderwahi speaking Locals of other tribes and castes living in peace and harmony . One can safely call it as a melting pot of many cultures and civilizations .

To reach this valley , one has to take a right turn on Jammu Srinagar road near batote and go all along river Chenab upstreanm to reach DODA . DODA is about 60 Kms from Batote. Baglihar Dam has submerged vast area of Doda district in Chenab waters . Even Pul DODA market is fast getting submerged . The old bridge on Chenab at Doda is also submerging . This Dam has given depth to Chenab and made it silent . One could hear lot of noise near Chenab banks prior to the construction of Dam reservoir of Baglihaar . Depth does bring silence .  At DODA Neeru stream Coming from Bhaderwah hills joins mighty Chenab So another right turn at Doda and about 30 Kms in upstream direction of Neeru lies Bhaderwah . It just resembles Pahalgham valley of kashmir .The temperature during summer ranges between 18 to 30 degrees centigrade making it climatically more pleasant then srinagar . Its bewitching beauty enthralls any visitor.

        

                                                   
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The construction of residential houses in Bhaderwah is totally copied from Kashmir.The Dubs , Dark alleys , Gossiping men on roads , butcher shops , kadam vegetable ,Pherans ,Kashmiri bakery shops and Azaan and Vedic Mantras from Loud speakers during morning hours  makes every kashmiri   feel as if he is   at  some place in his  motherland .

The annual kailash Kund Yatra is a festival joined by hindus and muslims .The ancient Vasuki Nag temple , Guptganga Temple , Chandi Mata Temple , Jamia Mosque and Gatha Mosque are largely frequented religious places .The black stone single piece  images in Vasuki Nag Temple were covered by cloth  when i visited this temple and the Purohit informed that the same would be opened for public Darshan after Baisakhi day

                                           

The mosques in entire Doda district have a typical architecture . Newly constrructed mosques bear the Minaret  and the Dome architecture but the older ones seen all over the district bear close resemblance to  kashmiri style  architecture .

                                 

   

“Kyaa saa Vaaray chhukh ”
(  Are you OK in kashmiri  )
“ Pandit Ji salaam ”
“Bee Shaa ji ”
(  Sit down please in Bhaderwahi  )
“Kodi Ghaano ”
( Where are you going in Bhaderwahi  )

You here these words most frequently while moving in the Bazar . They are kashmiri and Bhaderwaahi .Bhaderwah has been an important town on old Shawl route of jammu and Kashmir .This shawl route means Srinagar – Anantnag – Daksum – Kishtwar – Bhaderwah – Basholi _ Chamba  and other kingdoms of Himachal. Kashmiri Shawls and craftsmen have travelled from this route to Chamba and Basholi  in early 17th and 18th centuary .. Basholi area of kathua district had a long relation with Kashmir . Some painters of Pahari Style  miniature Art   were kashmiri Pandits. I quote  Dr M S Randhawa eminent Art Historian :-

"This family of Razdan or Raina Brahmins were responsible for the introduction of one of the most romantic movements in fine art in almost all the principalities of jasrota, Basohli, Guler, Jummu, Chamb, Noorpur and Kangra. Pandit Shiv Raina and his sons, Manak and Nainsukh the master painters of pahari miniature were in fact kashmiri fugitive brahmins ."  

                                                     

The rulers of Basholi had kashmiri Pandits as their Raj Purohits . I happened to know the one Razdan family of Basholi owning about 1500 Kanals of land in that area . Prakash Rani Razdan MLC was from this Basholi family and her ancestors were Purohits and painters in  Basholi Darbar . She was from Lahore and enjoyed horse riding and Paan chewing . I came to know many forgotten links of Basholi and Kashmir during my stay in this area as Manager of our bank’s Branch .Pashmina shawl industry flourishes in Basholi town to this day even . Even the kings of Jasrota ( Kathua ) had kashmiri shawl Craftsmen in their kingdom .

 It is Wonderful to see that people in  Bhaderwah use Kaangri in winters . Kashmiri Muslims use Rabab and matka in singing CHAKRI in CHALANT style .Bhaderwahi is the major spoken language of the area . People still remember  late Prof Saproo  principal of Bhaderwah Degree college with reverence and regard for spread of education in this area. Strangely but true , away from Kashmir you are in Kashmir.

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Tourist potential areas of this region are :-

Seoj and  Kailash
Jai valley-sabardhar
Sonbain-Guldanda-chatergala
Padri Gali-Bhal Padri
Bhaderwah town and  periphery

                                      

A motorable road has been completed to connect Bhaderwah with Basholi. A bridge on Raavi shall connect this area to pathankote . Kishtawar Bhaderwah road is operational since last 50 years . A road also links Kishtwar with Anantnag now ( Via Sinthan pass ) .Thus this area now comes on the alternate connectivity to Kashmir via Pathankote directly . That opens flood gates of Tourism for this area . This position qualifies Bhaderwah to be developed as a Gate-Way of tourism to Valley (J and K).

                         

People in Bhaderwah are well educated . Most of them are Teachers ( in colleges , schools and universities ) , doctors , lawyers and Engineers .Bhaderwah has a degree college in the town imparting quality education since early fifties University of Jammu has established an Offsite campus at Bhaderwah, which is one of the premier Research and Teaching institution of India. With more than 30 teaching Departments, 80 affiliated colleges and about 40,000 post graduate and Under Graduate students, the University attracts students from all over North India .Kashmiri culture and language is widespread in entire Doda and adjoining Kishtwar districts of the state .

Abdul Qudoos Rasa Javidani( 1901-1979)was an eminent poet of this area who wrote both in Urdu and Kashmiri. Rasa belonged to a family which had migrated from village Kadipora in Anantnag  (Kashmir )to Bhadarwah.I end this post with a beautiful poem of this great poet . This poem has been sung soulfully by our Raj begum sahiba

Masharaavthuss janaana Tse Kurr yaad Peymoy Baa,
Chhukh Az wafaa begaan Tse Kurr Yaad Peymoy Baa.
Raadhaaiy Jigruss Kaan Taarith Baal maarith Guvv,
Goopaal Krishen Kaanhaa Tse Kurr Yaad Peymoy Baa.


( Rasa javidaani )


Love ! wilfully you have kept me away !
when Shall thee  remember me !
Why are thee so noncommittal to my Love !
when Shall thee  remember me !
Piercing arrow in Radha’s tender heart,
you move playfully away.
O Gopaala ! O Krishna !O Kaanhaa !
when Shall thee  remember me !

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