BEAUTIFUL MINI KASHMIR IN JAMMU PROVINCE KNOWN AS BHADERWAH

        

   

BHADERWAH:  A BEAUTIFUL MINI KASHMIR   IN JAMMU PROVINCE   OF J&K UT.

 ( Photos by Avtar Mota nnd D K Dogra )

"The happiest, prettiest country ever seen in the mountains."

 Sir G.T. Vigne, who toured this region in 1842 A.D., described Bhaderwah in these words.

 

 “Jenab, this is Chhota Kashmir (Mini Kashmir). You can find Kouls, Misris, Rainas, Razdans, Zutishis and many other Kashmiri Pandits living peacefully for ages. You shall also find Zargars, Bandays, Nayaks, Misgars, Wanis, Bhats, Ahangars, Mirs and Dars amongst Kashmiri Muslims also living happily. Most of the Kashmiris living here have migrated from Kashmir in the middle of the nineteenth century from Anantnag district due to recurring famines and failure of the then rulers to come to the rescue of starving villagers.”  Said Ghulam Nabi Bhat met me near the Jamia Mosque in Bhaderwah town.

      Bhaderwah is also know as “Nagon ki bhoomi” or’‘Land of Serpents '.  The Bhaderwah Town (Nagar Bhaderwah) was known as Hettary Nagar, and before that, there were two other towns namely Donga Nagar and Udho Nagar. Bhadarwah was ruled by the "Naga Dynasty”. The powerful Kingdom of Bhadu Bilawar also existed in nearby hills, and its rulers conquered and annexed the states of Bhaderwah and Basohli to their Kingdom. Prince Radhak was given the state of Bhaderwah, and he ruled it, calling himself Raja Lakshmi Dev. He shifted his capital to Bhaderwah proper called Nagar. The last king of this dynasty was "Pahar Chand".

During the rule of Maharaja Ghulab Singh, Bhaderwah became a part of the J&K State.  When Maharaja Partap Singh was crowned, Bhaderwah was given as "Jageer" to his younger brother Raja Amar Singh.

Bhaderwah is known as Chhota Kashmir (Mini Kashmir) in Jammu and Kashmir State. It is a beautiful valley with hills of Kishtawar in its north, Chamba (HP) in its east, the Basholi area of Jammu near River Ravi in its south and the Chenani area of Udhampur district in its west. One can safely call this place the queen of hills. Perched at a height of about 5300 feet from sea level and surrounded by snow-clad hills with Deodaar forests on all sides, this area has a unique history and culture. You find Kashmiri Pandits , Kashmiri speaking Muslims , Gaddis , Thakkars ,  Wazirs , Kotwals , Parihars , Chib Rajputs and Manhas Rajputs , Khatris from Punjab , Mahajans and Bhaderwahi speaking locals of other tribes and castes living in peace and harmony . One can safely call it a melting pot of many cultures and civilizations.

   To reach this valley, one has to take a right turn on- Jammu-Srinagar highway near Batote and go all along the River Chenab upstream to reach Doda. Doda is about 60 km from Batote. Baglihar Hydro-electric Project has submerged a vast area of Doda district into Chenab waters. Even the Pul-Doda market has also submerged along with the old bridge on the River Chenab at Doda. This dam has given depth to the Chenab from Baglihar upstream and made it silent. One could hear a lot of noise near the Chenab banks before the construction of the dam reservoir of Baglihaar. Surely depth does bring silence. At Doda, Neeru stream coming from the Bhaderwah hills joins the mighty Chenab. So another right turn at Doda and about 30 km in the upstream direction of Neeru lies Bhaderwah. It just resembles the Pahalgham valley of Kashmir. The temperature during summer ranges between 18 to 30 degrees centigrade, making it climatically more pleasant than Srinagar. Its bewitching beauty enthralls any visitor.

 The construction of residential houses in Bhaderwah is done in the Kashmiri style of architecture. The Dubs, dark alleys, gossiping men on roads, butcher shops, Kadam vegetable, Pherans, Kashmiri bakery shops,  Azaan and Vedic Mantras from loud speakers during morning hours make every Kashmiri visitor feel as if he is at some place in his motherland. Newly constructed mosques bear the minaret and the dome architecture, but the older ones seen all over the district bear a close resemblance to the   Kashmirian style architecture.

 The annual Kailash Kund Yatra is a festival joined by Hindus and Muslims. The ancient Vasuki Nag Temple, Guptganga Temple, Chandi Mata Temple, Jamia Mosque and Gatha Mosque are largely frequented religious places. The black stone single piece images in Vasuki Nag Temple were covered by cloth when I visited and the Purohit informed that the same would be opened for public Darshan after Baisakhi day. A three-day-long Mela Patt is also celebrated every year to commemorate the historic meeting between Emperor Akbar and Raja Nagpal of Bhaderwah. Some time in the 16th century, Raja Nagpal is reported to have gone to Delhi to meet the emperor. This festival is devoted to Lord Vasuki Nath, the presiding deity of Bhaderwah.It is organized on the conclusion of the Kailash Yatra. Wearing colorful clothes, people dance to the tunes. The traditional Dakhu dance is a special attraction of this Mela.

                                                                 

“Kyaa saa Vaarai chhukha ”

(  Are you OK in Kashmiri)

“ Pandit Ji salaam ”

“Bee Shaa ji ”

(  Sit down please in Bhaderwahi  )

“Kodi Ghaano ”

(Where are you going in Bhaderwahi)

You hear these words most frequently while moving in the Bazar. They are Kashmiri and Bhaderwaahi words . Bhaderwah has been an important town on the old Shawl Route of Kashmir. This shawl route means Srinagar – Anantnag – Daksum – Kishtwar – Bhaderwah – Basholi -Chamba and other Kingdoms of Himachal Pradesh. Kashmiri shawls and craftsmen have travelled from this route to Chamba and Basholi in the early 17th and 18th centuries. The asholi area of Kathua district had a long relation with Kashmir. Some painters of Pahari Miniature were Kashmiri Pandits. I quote Dr M S Randhawa, eminent Art historian:-

"This family of Razdan or Raina Brahmins were responsible for the introduction of one of the most romantic movements in fine art in almost all the principalities of Jasrota, Basohli, Guler, Jummu, Chamba, Noorpur and Kangra. Pandit Shiv Raina and his sons, Manak and Nainsukh, the master painters of Pahari Miniature, were in fact Kashmiri fugitive Brahmins."

 The rulers of Basholi had Kashmiri Pandits as their Raj Purohits. I happened to know one Razdan family that owned large agricultural land in and around the Basholi town. Prakash Rani Razdan MLC was from the Razdan family of Basholi, and her ancestors were Purohits and painters in the Basholi Darbar. She was from Lahore and was known for her aristocratic lifestyle. She enjoyed horse riding and pan chewing. I came to know many forgotten links of Basholi and Kashmir during my stay in this area as manager of our bank’s branch. Pashmina shawl industry flourishes in Basholi town to this day. Even the Rajas of Jasrota (Kathua) had Kashmiri craftsmen (shawl

It was a pleasant surprise to see that people in Bhaderwah use Kaangri in winters. The Muslims of Kashmiri ancestry in Bhaderwah use Rabab and Nott (Matka) in singing Chhakri in Challant style popularized by Ghulam Nabi Doolwal of Dool (Kishtawar).Bhaderwahi is the major spoken language of the area. People still remember the late Prof Saproo, Principal of Bhaderwah Degree College, with reverence and regard for the spread of education in this area. Strange but true, away from Kashmir, you are in Kashmir. Tourist potential areas of this region are:-

Seoj and Kailash

Jai valley-sabardhar

Sonbain-Guldanda-chatergala

Padri Gali-Bhal Padri

Bhaderwah town and periphery ) 

 

                                                                         

                                         

    (A view of Seri Bazaar Bhaderwah during Annual Chandi Mata Yatra.. Photo .D. K.Dogra )
                                                    

                                       (Dussehra in Bhaderwah.Photo D K Dogra)

        

                                                   

                                                                                                 

                             ( Final site of Kailash Yatra ... Photo Dharam Kant Dogra ) A three day long 
                                                                  

                                 ( Mela Patt  Bhaderwah .. Photo Dharam Kant Dogra )

                                  

                                                ( Mela Patt  Bhaderwah .. Photo Dharam Kant Dogra )                                               

                                   

                                  

                                                 

                                      

                         

A motorable road has now been completed to connect Bhaderwah with Basholi. A bridge on river Ravi at Basholi has connected this area with Pathankote. Kishtawar- Bhaderwah road is operational since last 50 years. A road also links Kishtwar with Anantnag now (Via Simthan pass) .Thus this area now comes on the alternate connectivity to Kashmir via Pathankote. That opens flood gates of tourism for this area. This position qualifies Bha

People in Bhaderwah town are generally well educated. Most of them are teachers (in colleges, schools and universities), doctors, lawyers and engineers. Bhaderwah has a degree college in the town imparting quality education since the early fifties of the last century. The University of Jammu has also established an off-site campus at Bhaderwah.  Kashmiri culture and language are widespread in the entire Doda and adjoining Kishtwar districts of the state. Bhaderwah is to be developed as a Gateway to the State’s Tourism.

 And then Abdul Qudoos Rasa Javidani (1901-1979), an eminent poet from this area, wrote his poems both in Urdu and the Kashmiri language. Rasa belonged to a family which had migrated fromthe  village of Kadipora in Anantnag (Kashmir) to Bhadarwah. I end this post with lines from a beautiful Gazal of this poet. This Gazal has been sung soulfully by well-known Kashmiri singer Raj Begum Sahiba.

“Masharaavthhuss janaana Tche Kurr yaad Peymoy Baa,

Chhukh Az wafaa begaan Tche Kurr Yaad Peymoy Baa.

Raadhaaiy Jigruss Kaan Taarith Baal maarith Guvv,

Goopaal Krishen Kaanhaa Tse Kurr Yaad Peymoy Baa.”..( Rasa javidaani )

 

(Love! Willfully, you forgot me!

When shall you remember me?

Why are you so noncommittal to my love?

When shall you remember me?

Piercing arrow in Radha’s tender heart,

You move playfully away.

O Gopala ! O Krishna !O Kaanhaa !

When shall   you  remember me !)

 ( Avtar Mota )

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