HOKH SEUN OR DRY VEGETABLES OF KASHMIR

                                                          

“Sheena Pyeto Pyeto , Maama Iytto Iytto ”

“O Snow keep Falling and Let my Mother’s brother Visit us . ”

Mother’s brother is known as MAMA in this subcontinent . Mama has a very important role in upbringing of the children of his sister . Not always does he financially support their upbringing but yes the emotional chord of the children with their Mama is so strong that sometimes it outflows the father’s role . This applies to kashmiris as well. You have a marriage , birth , happiness or any gloom in the family , Mama is there to stand and  offer more than his share of support.

                                                       

Crushed under the burden of poverty coupled with joint family system that existed in Kashmir , every women would send her children to her parental house for a change . She had no time to attend to them  for she was never free from the daily chores .Mama was the person who was there to take care of children's  fancies . He would bring new clothes , take them to the bazar  and give them  time and attention to cheer them  up . I remember most of the children telling their mothers in olden days :

“Maam kar Iyee . Me Chhu Matammal Gachhun ”
“When is Mama coming ? I have to go to his house .”
Mama’s mention lies in Kashmiri folk songs as well . The mother sings lullaby to the infant saying

“Maam Laal Oai Tai Diyiyo Dilaaas , Paartho Gilaas Kulinai Tal ”
"Your Mama shall come and put courage in thee my sibbling. let me dress you up under a cherry tree "
When kashmiris Quarrel they say
“Tse Kyaa Maam Chhukhaa ”
“ Hey Shut up ! You are not my Mama ”
I also heard many Punjabis saying
"Tu Ki Mama Lagdhaa hai "
" Don't think yourself to be  my Mama  and take liberties "

 Noted kashmiri poet Dina nath Naadim  wrote
"Ghaam Peuth Yechkaaley Vothmut
Treil Heith Zun Maam Hue
Assi wattan Rut Ghaam Hue "

(As if Mama has come from the village after a long time ,
Bringing with him Treil ( Late autumn fruit of kashmir )
This country of ours is like a beautiful village .)

  

                                                     

Mama would also come to his sister’s house bringing with him a bags full of dry vegetables for the winter . That added to the respect and dignity of his sister in her inlaw’s house . Whenever Mama would come , for children it meant happiness and fun. Mama may not be there as prominently as he used to be in good olden days but the dry vegetables continue to be a part of kashmiri households . Dry Brinjal , Tomato , Gourd , Turnip, Vopal Haak ( Dry Leafy vegetable consumed by kashmiris in before the arrival of vegetables from plains  ) , Boombh ( Long green  grass like vegetable cooked with dry Fish ) and many other dry vegetables continue to be sold in plenty during winter season even when the fresh vegetable supply continues to pour in almost daily from plains . Kashmiri Pandits have also not abandoned them . Many shops in Jammu and Delhi sell this stuff .Enjoy latest  views of dry vegetables being sold in srinagar.I have seen even the younger generation enjoying the dry vegetables cooked in the family. The tradition has been beautifully carried down by our ladies   . Let it continue .

                                                                                 

                                                         

I end this post with lines from a poem of Farooq Nazki  wherein he expresses  deep anguish over loss of composite culture in kashmir and how he  misses Kamla ji ( Kamli ) mother of his friend   Som Nath sadhu (of radio kashmir ) in Srinagar .

"A dedication once more,
Somnath Sadhu, for you ...
You Know?
Your mother Kamli has run away from Kashmir,
She took along with her silver plate,
that you and I ate from,
the food that she laid,
She fled Kashmir, fearing me,
You Know?"
( Farooq Nazki )

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TWO VIEWS OF KASHMIR AND A POEM OF ALI SARDAR JAFRI .

For this post I have uploaded three views of Kashmir and a poem of Ali Sardar Jafri. Jafri sahib recited this poem in many gatherings in India and abroad . I have already conveyed that Nobel Laureate Pablo Neruda was his personal friend and Jafri Sahib even taught him Urdu .I would like my readers to read the poem "Asia  Jaag uthaa "and enjoy the realistic   presentation of  of Asia put forth  SARDAR ( As he was Popularly known all over ).    This has also been one amongst my favourite poems .  A photograph of Ali Sardar jafri with Pandit Nehru has also been uploaded .                                                                       

(Asia Awakens )

This is the soil of Asia,
The womb of civilisation,
The land of culture.
It was here that
The sun opened its eyes.
It was here that
The first dawn of humanity
Unveiled its beauty.
It was here that
Ancient ages lighted
Their lamps of science and wisdom.

It was from this height that
The Vedas sang their happy songs.
From here did the Buddha
Teach the lesson of equality.
From here did Mazdak
Sing the songs of love and justice.
The winds of our history
Have heard the words of the Christ.
Our sun has shone
On the head of Mohammed.
This is the soil
Which has borne
The sheaves of grain;
it is as ancient
As the story of mankind;
It is as majestic
As the tall peaks of Himalayas;
It is as beautiful
As the nymphs of Ajanta
It is as generous
As the kind waters
Of the Ganges and the Nile;
This fertile lap is filled
With children and flowers.

Our heritage extends
From Mohenjo Daro
To the great wall of China,
Our history, from the Taj
To the pyramids of Giza,
Our treasures, from Babylon
To Nineveh.
Since our childhood,
Eloquence has kissed our lips,
And poetry sung lullabies to us.
Our tongues have learnt
The Vedas, Gospels and the Quran.
Our imagination has already touched
Those soaring heights, where shine
The suns of Firdausi and Saadi,
Nizami, Khayyam and Hafiz;
The heights, where hold sway
Valmiki, the revered Tulsi,
Kabeer and Surdas;
The heights, where resound
The lute of Iqbal,
The songs of Tagore.
***
This is the soil of Asia,
The womb of civilisation,
The land of culture,
Her peasant, a wooden plough
In his aged hands;
Her poor workers
With burning, tired eyes;
Ships, sailors, songs, storms,
Potters, blacksmiths,
Milkmaids bathed in milk;
Old story tellers,
Sitting round a fire;
Innocent faces of little children
Safe in their mothers' laps;
Fields of ripe crops,
Cows and buffaloes;
Tinkling of glass bangles
In green fields;
Dreary deserts,
Silent and profound like prophets;
Flowing tresses of date palms;
Pomegranate flowers, mango blossoms;
Granaries, heaps of cow-dung cakes;
Dancing virgins of winding pathways.
Long and lovely rivers
Kissing with their waves
The tremblings lips of their banks;
Gentle waterfalls
At the slender waists
Of beauteous bridal valleys;
Blue bowls in mountain palms;
Stars reflecting in lake mirrors;
Loving arms
Of the Ganges and Jamuna
Round the neck
Of the Himalayas;
The shawl of blue ice
On the head of mountain storms.

This is Asia,
Young, fresh, and fertile,
Whose poor, penniless children,
Mute at the poisonous snake of hunger;
Their lips never tasted milk
After leavings their mothers' breasts;
Their tongues have never tasted
The bread of wheat;
Their backs have never felt
The touch of clean, white cloth;
Their hands have never held a book;
Their feet know nothing
Of shoes and slippers;
Their heads are strangers
To the soft delight of a pillow;
They regard their hunger
As their food:
These unique creatures
Will be found only
In the Paradise of Asia;
Still 'animals'
Even after three centuries
Of imperial 'civilisation.'

Where are you,
You bearers of the torch of 'culture'?
Come and see
The sideshow of your 'culture.'
***

Nowhere else will you see
Such pitiful faces.
Every corner of this earth,
You have filled with
Your regal memorials.
Here, you have reared
An arch of victory,
There, pillars of your arrogance;
Here, you have cast
Horses of bronze,
There, statues of stone:
But they do not represent
Your culture and civilisation.
Call your sculptors and painters,
To adorn your museums
With these pitiful faces,
As the lasting memorial
To your mighty deeds.

***
Now, in Asia we have
A forest of hands,
Fists of white marble,
Of dark granite.
O bride of the dawn of spring,
We are waiting to adorn you with
A fistful of twilight's vermilion,
Flowers of moon and stars,
Rouge of red sunbeams.


( Ali Sardar jafri )

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SRINAGAR BAZAR VIEWS AND LINES FROM 'SUBH E FARDAA' POEM OF SARDAR JAFRI

    

                                                                            

                               



I have been asked by a person as to what is so special about general photographs of Kashmir which I am uploading . My reply :

“Surely General views of Kashmir may not attract a person who has not lived over there . But then those who have lived the seasons of Kashmir , inhaled its fragrant air , walked on its green dew soaked grassy fields and shared a common culture and language with people of this land are sure to get delighted with the views I am uploading.”The pictures uploaded for this post have been taken at 1 poloview market, 2 lal chowk , 3 Ahdoo's hotel lane and 4 Church at Dalgate .For this post i again upload some more lines from Ali sardar jafri's poem SUBH  E  FARDAA .Every time there is peace or talk of peace on our borders , i am reminded of this great poet. He wrote a beautiful poem Tashkent ki Shaam  after Tashkent agreement was signed . Whenever there is a talk of peace , Ali Sardar Jafri's memorable lines sound  promising:

Tum Aao Gulshan e Lahore se chaman bar dosh

Ham Aayain subh e Banaras ke roshni le kar

(You come, laden with flowers from Lahore's beautiful gardens.

I approach you carrying the exquisite light that marks every dawn in Banars.)

 Long back ,Sardar recited his poem Qatle Aftab ( Murder of sun )   in a Mushiara in Jammu  .. I was also in the gathering of his listeners . The poem sent shivers down my spine . The issue was again Peace in the subcontinent  and a vision  for humanity . Surely, i shall upload that poem as well some time later .At the moment some more lines from  his poem SUBH E FARDAA ( Tomorrow's  Dawn ) . 

 Yeh Sarhad Manchalon ki , Dil Jalon ki Jaan Nisaaron ki ,

Yeh sarhad sarzameene Dil Ke Baanke Sheh Sawaaron ki ,
Yeh Sarhad Kajkulaahon ki Yeh Sarhad Kajadaaon ki ,
Yeh Sarhad Gulshane Lahore O Dili Ki Hawaaon ki ,
Yeh sarhad Amno Aazaadi ke Dilafroz khwaabon ki,
Yeh sarhad doobtey Taaron Ubhartey Aaftaabon ki ,
Yeh Sarhad Khoon Me Lithade Pyar Ke Zakhmi Gulaabon ki ,
Mein Iss sarhad par kab se Muntazir hoon subhe fardaa ka .

( Ali sardar jafri )

(This is the Border of
The bold courageous martyrs.
This is the Border of
The horsemen of the land of heart.
This is the Border of
The breeze of the gardens
of Lahore and Delhi.
This is the Border of
The heart-warming dreams
Of freedom and peace.
This is the Border of
The roses of love,
Wounded, soaked in blood.
I stand on this Border
Waiting for tomorrow’s happy dawn. )

 

( Ali sardar jafri with a child  .  )


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SARDAR JAFRI , GULMARG AND SUBH E FARDAA

                                                                            

Ali Sardar Jafri ( 1913-200 )  would come to kashmir quite often . In fact he loved this place  . He was seen many times by me in Srinagar  . He had many friends over here.  When he came for the first time , he was touched by the Poverty of artisans of Kashmir . He was overwhelmed by the hospitality of locals  .He wrote a poem  on Kashmir after this visit . Sardar also scripted the commentary for son et lumiere (sound and light) show for  Shalimar Garden of kashmir . This son et lumiere (sound and light) was shown for many years in the garden at evening time .Sardar liked Gulmarg In paticular .So Three views of Gulmarg , a Photograph of Faiz Ahmed Faiz and Sardar Jafri with cigarettes  together with some lines from his Poem SUBH  E  FARDAA  ( Tomorrow's Morning ) . I have heard Sardar reciting this poem  in many Mushiaras  . Alas! sardar died wishing peace on our borders .

                                                      

 . 

Issi Sarhad pe Kal Doooba thaa Suraj ho ke do tukde,
Issi sarhad pe kal zakhmi hui Thi Subh e Azaadi,
Yeh Sarhad Khoon Ki Ashkon ki Aahon ki Shararon ki,
Jahaan Boyee thi Nafarat Aur Talwarein Ugaayeen thi .
Yahaan Mehboob Aankhon ke sitaare Tilmilaaye the,
Yahaan Mashooq Chehre Aansuon me jhilmilaaye the,
Yahaan Beton se Maa Pyaari Behan Bhai Se Bichhadi Thi
Yeh Sarhad Jo Lahoo Peeti Hai Aur Sholey Ughaltee hai
Hamaari Khaak Ke Sarhad pe Naagin Ban Ke Chaltee Hai
Sajaa Ke Jung Ke Hathiyaar Maidaan Me Nikaltee hai
Mein Iss sarhad Pe Kab Se Muntazir Hoon Subh e Fardaa Ka .


( Ali Sardar Jafri )


 The setting imperial sun
broke into two parts
On this very Border, yesterday.
The dawn of freedom was wounded
On this very Border, yesterday.
This is the Border of blood,
Tears, sights, and sparks,
Where we had sown hatred
And reaped a harvest of swords.
Here, stars struggled
In the eyes of dear ones.
Here, beloved faces
Flickered in streams of tears.
Here, a mother lost her sons,
A brother, his sister.
This border thrives on blood,
Breathes flames of despise
She slithers like a snake
On the bosom of our land.
She comes to the battlefield
Crested with all her weapons .

I stand on this Border
Waiting for the Tomorrow's  Happy Dawn.

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STRANGE SHOPS AND STRANGER SHOPKEEPERS OF JOGILANKER ,RAINAWARI SRINAGAR . .

    

“Have you seen Mughale Azam ? If only  you see the movie ,you shall come to know what Soshali  -Azm and seculari -Azm means .”

This is what Shadi Lal Koul told Naba Galadhaar ( Gh Nabi )in his shop. Gh Nabi was asking me the meaning of words Socialism and secularism. He had joined National Conference party headed by Sheikh Mohd Abdullah and had heard the leaders speaking  these two words in most of the meetings in and around Rainawari. He had sought meaning of these words from many Muslims and Pandits but none could simplify these terms so as to bring them down to his level of understanding them. I did it . He was happy . Shadi lal koul lived near Jogi Lanker Bridge  . Quite often I found him sitting in Gh Nabi's shop and  passing on skills of  TV and Transistor circuit repairing  to him  . Shadi lal had also joined National Conference .They would also gossip while sipping tea with some new National Conference recruits . Shadi lal later worked as a freelance cameraman with Door Darshan. His father was a police man who retired as ASI. We used to call him Shadi Police . Alas! this poor chap died in a tragic road accident .

During my college days , I  noticed that Many shops in Srinagar actually opened for gossip only. We had our share of such shops in Rainawari. In jogi lanker ,we had one Ram Joo Handoo who had a chemist’s shop . Come evening time , Many Pandits would enter the shop for pure gossip.They would occupy entire sitting space in the shop. At a certain point of time  , no customers entered the shop and the shelves ,which at times were full with  bottles and tablets revealed dust and emptiness . Another Gossip shop of Shamboo Nath kalpushu also met the same fate . This virus of gossip also entered a  drycleaner’s shop ( Abdul Rehman by name ) in Jogi lanker chowk. Abdul Rehman washed  his hands   off the  flourishing Dry Cleaning business .A cloth merchant named Radhey Nath Masarat  also fell victim to this Virus .Come evening time and we found many educated men from Rainawari unwinding their day’s exertion inside this cloth merchant’s shop.

We had a saintly Baker named Nil Kanth Bhan in Jogi lanker . He was thoroughly professional . Beginning his day at 4 AM , he would be free by 1 PM . He would start with morning  Tseot (bread) upto 9 AM and then he would bake Kulcha , Telvoru and Katalam . Before closing his shop, he would prepare his tea and call for  one Gh Mohd  inside his shop.They would have tea together with freshly baked Kulcha.Gh Mohd had lost his mental equilibrium and one could call him insane .His family had abandoned him. . He would roam aimlessly on roads but his area of movement was confined from Jogi lanker bridge to Kralyar  Chowk.While sipping tea there was no communication between Gh Mohd  and Neel kanth .

Lo !  hell broke for Gh Mohd one day. A muslim family known as Maliks  had a shop in jogi lanker wherefrom they sold cloth . A boy from this family saw Gh Mohd taking tea inside Nil kanth’s shop . He immediately told every boy in the street about this discovery . That day onwards every boy in Rainawari would cry “ BATTA CHAAY ” (meaning Pandit Tea ) when Gh Mohd would pass by. Neel Kanth found a solution to this problem . He would give Gh Mohd a small tin with milk , tea leaves and sugar water . He also put burning charcoal in Gh Mohd’s kangri . The Tin with ready made tea mixture was put on Charcoal and Gh Mohd  would prepare his tea on sitting space near a closed shop just opposite Neel Kanth's shop.. When boys saw this new arrangement , they started crying “ DUBB CHAAY “ ( Tea made in Tin ).A butcher opposite  Neel Kanth’s shop whom we called Ismail Pujj would also pass on  a piece of raw boney meat to Gh Mohd for roasting in his Kangri .Ismail Pujj was nick named as BATTA PUUJ (Pandit  Butcher ) by the shopkeepers because his customers were predominantly Pandits . When the boys  saw Gh Mohd roasting the mutton piece in kangri ,  they  started calling him “TAKA ADDIJ” “ The bone eater ” . This new name TAKA ADDIJ caught fancy of all . Even the shopkeepers would then call him TAKA ADDIJ. That made him aggressive and violent .He would  pick up and throw  stones  in frustration on any person whenever  he would find  boys calling him TAKA ADDIJ. Another man who had lost his mental Equilibrium  would always be present in the market. He was known as Gaffara . He would sit and sleep on the pavement or some times on shops . Some times some Pandit lady from Braroo family living nearby would bring him food . I do not remember the name of another Hindu baker who would give  tea and Kulcha to Gaffara . This baker was know as “Nika Kandhur ” by people in Jogi lanker  . A kashmiri Pandit known as Gopi Nath was the president of the shopkeepers association of jogilanker .Anytime i visited his shop, i found him writing  which made   his customers wait  even  for a match box. Keen to know as to what actually was being written by him , I found  one day that for every item  he sold ,he would write the cost price , sale price and the resultant profit . This writing went to such  a proportion that he focused less on selling and more on writing and finally the virus of gossip  visited  his shop too  resulting in total dwindle of business.

There was a milk seller's shop in Jogilanker chowk . This milk seller had a large family . one of the boys in the family was educated and we would call him Maama  Kol.This milk seller also worked as Head Hamaal ( Labour Head ) in Food and supplies ration  Ghat  at Bagh Jogi lanker .The rations epecially rice , Atta and sugar were stored  in Big Boats ( near Jogi Lanker bridge ) known as  Bahuch . Each  Government Ration Ghat had a Ghat Munshi ( Clerk )  , Kanda Coolie ( Weighing man ) , Head Hamaal and labourer.Whenever any Pandit would see the Head Hamaal in the market he would  ask  him :-

" Kyaa Saa Ghattus Trovukhah Tomull " Have the fresh rice supplies come ?

The Head Hamaal's replies would be   different  to differrent persons  .  He would generally say ;

" Thehar veini Kharizi Naa Tomull " Wait Do not go for the rice as yet .

" Praar Daah Doh . Saaf Tomull iyee "Wait for ten days , Fresh  rice stocks are awaited   .

"Thaav Piece mey Aithee . Baa Khaarai Paanai " Keep the ration slip with me . I shall buy myself.

."First class Tomull Chhuyee . Khaar subahanuss " We have good variety of rice . Buy it tomorrow.

I never saw any Muslim asking this question to the Head Hamaal.In fact they would go and buy straight what was available at the ration Depot.

We had another Shopkeeper doing brisk business in Provisions  who was very popular with Pandits and whom every person called  Naba Bakhor .  While he  enjoyed gossiping with other shopkeepers and customers , he  had kept no space for any body to sit inside his shop . You had to keep standing outside his shop for  gossiping . I would often hear him say one line to close his argument :-

“YEH CHHE MARKUZZUCH CHAAL” meaning “This is a trick played by Central Government ”. For him every disturbance or unpleasantness around was a ploy of central Government . He was intelligent , sharp and focused in his business.

That was a story on Jogilanker Bazar and the gossip shops it had .Enjoy this post with some evening time views of Chattabal  Market in down town srinagar .Srinagar  on a Strike day. I am adding  lines from two poems of Agha shahid Ali to conclude this post on Rainawari Bazar of yesterdays . The lines depict Shahid's love for Kashmir, it's composite  culture,  traditions and ethos.

"At a certain point I lost track of you

They make a desolation and call it peace.
When you left even the stones were buried -
The defenceless would have no weapons."


"I'm everything you lost - You won't forgive me.
My memory keeps getting in the way of your history -
There is nothing to forgive.
You won't forgive me.
I hid my pain even from myself;
I revealed my pain only to myself - There is everything to forgive.
You can't forgive me.
If only somehow you could have been mine,
what would not have been possible in the world?"

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ATTENTION ! RIVER TAWI IS DRYING UP.

            

               

    

THIS POST FOR FRIENDS  AND WELL WISHERS  IN JAMMU

“Jammu Diyaan Kandiyaan Barkhaa Lagee Dii,

Te Dhaare Pavein De Aaley ,
O Shokiyaa Chambe Deyaa.”

(This song connected with Winter season has been often heard by me from people Living in Duggar Area..The male in this song prefers to go to Chamba while the female is convincing him that the winter season of Jammu is equally charming and he should not go .)

Duggar is an area that lies between Chenab( Chanderbhaaga ) and Raavi( Iraavati ). As a matter of fact this sweet language known as Dogri is also spoken in Kangra , Chamba , Hamirpur , Dharmshala and other areas of Himachal. Chanchalo and Kunjua are common characters in Folklore of Himachal and Jammu.The song “ Pal Pal Beyee Jaana Ho Jindhe ” is sung in almost entire Dogri speaking areas . Late Malika Pukhraj sang this folk song in a soulful Pahari tune . I also remember a dogri Folk song :-

“ Deaan Maaye Meraa odunoo, Mein Marwaa Gudunn Jaana , Lobhi Marve Dhaa ”

( O Mother please give me my Dupatta and digging instrument . I shall dig the land )

Here in this Duggar Land , noted Folk singer Ghulam Mohd sings the Popular Bhaint ( devotional songs ) in praise of mata Vaishno Devi Ji

“Jotaan Jagdiyaan , Mata De Darbar Jotaan Jagdiyaan"

This is the land of General Zorawar singh who marched to Tibet and annexed Ladakh to this state . It is also the birth place of musicians like late Ustad Allah Rakha renowned tabla player ( Ustad Zakir Hussain's father ) and Pandit Shiv Kumar Sharma . Kundan Lal Sehgal and actor Om Prakash are a product of Jammu city only . The legend has it that King Jambu Lochan built a city on Tawi banks in 9th centuary BC . As per History , the city of jammu came under Dogra rule of Raja Dhruv Dev in 1730 A D . Kalhana also makes  a brief mention of march of king Laitaditya’s army in this area  in his Rajtaringini ;

“With the mass of rays of his military glory , which were of the nature of perfumed powder , he decorated Jambudvipa which was like a lordly elephant.”

( Taranga 4 canto 127 ).

River Tawi also known as Suraj Putri ( Daughter of Sun God ) passes through the heartland of Duggar . Originating from Kali Kundi Glacier in Bhaderwah area of Doda district , it travels a distance of 141 Kms upto jammu border and finally joins Chenab . It is not to be confused with Manawar Tawi . Manawar Tawi is a rivulet originating from Thana Mandi area in Rajouri District and Flows through Chingus , Nowshera and enters punjab ( Pakistan ) at Manawar  to finally join Chenab .So Tawi and Manawar Tawi ultimately join Chenab .The Culture of Jammu is infact the culture of this river only.The river divides the jammu city in two Parts .The old town sits on a hill top overlooking river Tawi and across the river the new town extends to several killometers in all directions.This river is a major source of drinking water for the old city . Three Major bridges have been built over the river near jammu city. One Joins Gumat with Bikram Chowk while the other Connects Gujjar Nagar with Bahu area . The third bridge is on the city bye pass near Nagrota .

                                                                     

Acting like a great tolerant mother ,this river which has been providing shelter and relief to many groups and civilizations to flourish on its banks is in utter neglect presently. Alas ! the river is vanishing fast . All drains of the city pour their filth in this river only. With Source Glacier also vanishing fast , the bed of the river is now almost visible during winters and summers as well .We heard from Shri Raman Bhalla and Shri Rigzin Jora ( both ministers in J&K Government )that an artificial lake is proposed in the river near Gujjar Nagar . we also heard that work on Cable car project connecting Baghe Bahu with Mubarak Mandi is going to start very shortly .Should that happen, Jammu shall also be on the tourist map.I end this brief post on River tawi with some lines from Baba Bulle shah.

                                                                

Chal Way Bullehya Chal Oathay Chaliyay,

Jithay Saaray Annay.
Na Koi Saadee Zaat PichHanay
Tay Na Koi Saanu Mannay.

Come Bulle Shah let us go there,
Where everyone is blind.
Where no one recognizes our caste (or race, or family name)
And where no one believes in us.

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MUSLIM CARETAKER OF SHIVA TEMPLE IN PAHALGHAM KASHMIR

 

He is a devout muslim . He was fasting on account of Holy Ramadaan . Idd was approaching when i went to Pahalgham to see him in 2009. I found that not even a Hindu Pujari could keep the shiva temple in such good condition as this noble devout Muslim .Kudos to him  for keeping this SHIVA temple near  Golf club  Pahalgham in good shape .This is not Mamalishwara Temple whereat Mohammad Abdullah  and Ghulam Hassan continue to be the  caretakers .This temple is on main Road  .Enjoy the views captured by me at Pahalgham with a Vakh of Lal Ded the tallest saint poetess of kashmir .

Shiv Chhuy Thalli Thalli Rozaan

Mozaan Heund Ta Musalmaan

Trukhay chhuk Ta Paan Preznaav

Soy Chhay Sahibuss Zaani Zaan .

( Lal Ded Kashmiri saint Poetess  )

Shiva abides in all that exists anywhere ,

Don't disciminate between a Hindu and Musalmaan ,

O Wise ! Recognise thy true self ;

For that alone is the true knowledge of the lord.

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FIVE MARKET VIEWS OF SRINAGAR ( JANUARY 2010)

    

ya  shah e  Hamdaan,

ya shah e hamdaan.

Are we human?

Who says human!

The winter is ahead of us ,

The pocket is moneyless ,

The hovel is roofless ,

And the law is chasing us ,

Do you care?

ya  shah e hamdan,

ya shah e hamdan

( Dina nath Nadim )


CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
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KASHMIRI VEGETARIAN DISHES PART I

   

        

I am uploading some kashmiri vegetarian dishes . More shall follow in my Part II . The dishes are DUM ALLU  or Potato cooked after Deep frying with curd and red chili powder. The second photograph shows what kashmiris call SHUFTAA . It is a sweet dish prepared by boiling dry fruits in water saturated with table sugar .The third photograph is Palak( Spinach ) with Nadru ( Lotus stem ) . Fourth photograph is Nadru Yakhani ( Lotus Stem in Curd Gravy ). Fifth and sixth dishes are the Yellow Paneer ( Cheese in turmeric ) and Phool Gobi - Mutter ( Peas and Cauliflower ) and prepared in  kadai . Surely More Vegetarian dishes shall follow .

zindagi se uns hai,

husn se lagaav hai,
dhakanon me aaj bhi,
ishq ka Alaav hai.


Dil abhi bujhaa nahin


Rang bhar rahaa hoon mein,
Khaaka-e-hayaat me,
Aaj bhi hoon  munhamik,
fikr-e-kaainaat me.


Gham abhi lutaa nahin


harf-e-haq azeez hai,
zulm naagavaar hai,
ahd-e-nau se aaj bhi,
ahd ustavaar hai


Mein abhi Maraa nahin
( Sahir Ludhianavi )

Life ! I love thee .

Beauty! I seek thee .
This heart of mine ,
Throbs today as well with Love alone . 

My Zest for life is unfinished as yet..


I paint this existence with colours.
Worried , I am equally for this world as well.


My sorrows have not been plundered yet .

Truth ! I keep thee close to my heart.
Repression , I abhor still.
Every new day is a better day for me .


Friends , I am not dead as yet.


CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
Based on a work at http:\\autarmota.blogspot.com\.

DOES FUTURE HOLD ANYTHING IN STORE FOR THEM ?

        

They are six innocent Rag Pickers Photographed by me just outside my gate early in the morning  on Shivratri day..The boy in the red pullover told me that his name was Tinku Master  . They had set out for their Rag picking  work at  7AM on  a  chilly morning . Back home their mothers had left to work as domestic helps . They live in a Jhuggi near by. I asked Tinku Master .

“ Kahan Ke Rehne waale Ho “
“Bangaal ”
“School Nahin Jaate Ho ”
“ Ischool Ka Fees Amma Nahin Deti Hai ”

Who shall bring  them  toys and lull them to the warm lap  motherly affection? .Looking at them  as a group, i was reminded of  a similar situation depicted in Urdu   Novel "Foot Path ke Farishte " by Krishen Chander.Looking at Tinku Master's face , i was remeinded of a couplet of Allama .

QAID E  MAUSAM   SE   TABIYAT   RAHEE       AZAD USKI

KAASH  GULSHAN  ME  SAMAJHATAA  KOI  FARIYAAD USKI

( Allama Iqbal )

“Unmoved by passing season’s change ,

The songster sits and sings alone ,
Wish there were in this garden someone ,
Who could understand his moan.!”


CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
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SIR V S NAIPAUL , KASHMIR AND " AREA OF DARKNESS "

   

“Anybody don’t like ice . Ice is heating ” Aziz had said when  Sir V S Naipaul had asked for some ice to be made available to him in the Hotel room .Kashmiris continue to have their strange notions about heat and cold in the human body. Most often they still say “ Me Gondun Naar ” when they take spicy foods or miss their daily dose of Curd . I remember elders telling youngsters in Kashmir that Ice cream is just fire when it goes inside human body.

“You Buy , I buy – what difference ? ”Aziz had said when  Naipaul had  asked for the change of electric bulb in the hotel Room. This is a graceful way of saying No . It is still practised . It is practised by my own friends .Muslims and Pandits would say No tactfully in this way only . You would never get a straight NO generally . Even for something which a person could never do, his stock reply was “ Kenh Naa Chhunaa Baa Vuchhaa Telli ” Meaning Don’t worry . Let me see what can be done .

“He Not Tourist ”This is how Aziz had intervened and rebuked a local Tonga wallah who had overcharged Naipaul. This is still true in Kashmir . People still cry when they feel that they are being overcharged “ Ba Naa Chhuss Naa Tourist” Meaning I am Not a Tourist .

“Hadn’t we better find out about the times of Gulmarg Buses Aziz ” Naipaul had said when he planned to visit Gulmarg with Aziz. “ O No Sahib Too Much Bus ” Aziz had replied back..When they went to the Bus stand , they came to know that the 8 O’ clock bus had been missed.The next bus was at 12 Noon . They had to wait at the Bus Stand for four hours .This used to be  the  way of taking things casually in Kashmir   . This has undergone sea change. People are serious about everything now.   Previously When People( Both Pandits and Muslims ) would take serious issues casually ,they did say “ Kenh Chhnnaa  Parvaay, Maa hey Fikir . ” Meaning there is no need to worry .

“He have wife . He have children . He poor man sahib . You Not report Tourism Sahib . He not honest man but he poor .” Aziz telling Naipaul

.“I am Best sportsman . I am best swimmer . I know all Physics and all chemistry ” This is how  a college  student had introduced himself to  Naipaul in his hotel room .

These are some incidents mentioned in   Area of Darkness  written by Nobel Laureate Sir V S Naipaul.. Sir V S Naipaul  is  a writer of Indian origin from Trinidad. Born in 1932, he started writing in english from 1950.  Some of his  books which i have enjoyed reading are :-

1 A House for Mr Biswas .

2 A Flag on the Island ( Especially stories like The enemy  and Night watchman's occurrence book )

3 Letters Between Father and son.

4 Area of  Darkness

5 Half a life .

 I also like Late  shiva Naipaul's  ( His real Brother also a writer ) style . Shiva  ( 1945 - 1985 ) died young of a heart attack.I enjoyed Shiva's book , Beyond the Dragon's Mouth: Stories and Pieces.

Those of us who have lived in kashmir and more particularly known  people  living in Dal Lake area  connected with Tourism Industry  or are privy to  their trade practices shall better understand the humor and wit put forth by Naipaul in the entire Part II of the book devoted to Kashmir only.. Naipaul has the unique quality of making his characters  reveal all by themselves .The travaelogue is  superb and absorbing.There are many instances in the Travelogue which demonstrate exceptional observation of events and characters by Naipaul .Naipaul has devoted more than 125 pages of this travelogue to Kashmir alone .

Naipaul  stayed in Kashmir for about 5 months in 1962. . This popular and widely read Travelogue was written  in Hotel Liward Dal lake Srinagar .Naipaul went for his  Amarnath Yatra with Hotel’s main Attendent Aziz and the cook Ali Mohd . Aziz has been presented as a typical Lake dweller who speaks English learnt from Guests and who has his own set notions about all issues around him. These notions have been built partly on account of his upbringing and partly contrived by him through his interaction with tourists. Still Aziz remains essentially a kashmiri  and a  simple Human being  .  If the writer could not ignore him, no reader can ignore him either  . You may  see through Aziz’s  funny intrigues in the Hotel  Kitchen or  garden but these  are primarily aimed to supplement his meagre  income to feed his family back home.. It is easy for any  reader to identify with this man.

Naipaul called this Hotel a DOLL”S HOUSE . Names like Mohd sidiq Bhat , Aziz , Ali Mohd , Mr Madan and Mr Kak referred to by him in this book are not fictional characters . They all existed in Bones and flesh . Some of them still continue their struggle in the changed environs and circumstances. I Happened to Know Mr Kak ( S. K Kak IAS Ex Director of Tourism and controller of Tawaza J&;K ). Late kak Sahib had confirmed having seen Naipaul twice  .Mr Madan was also a senior officer in Tourism department and senior to kak sahib . Mr Mohd sidiq Bhat was the owner of Hotel Liward when Naipaul Stayed over there . The name of the hotel was changed to LEEWARD later . Aziz who was the senior Attendent with Mr Bhat in 1962 later became the owner of the Hotel . Aziz of Area of Darkness is actually Abdul Aziz who still lives in the lake ;An old and affectionate  man  who vividly remembers Naipaul and the introductory letter he wrote for Hotel’s permit from Tourism department . The Hotel has since added more   rooms from bare 7 rooms it had when Naipaul stayed .The Hotel is just 5 minutes Shikara ride from Nehru Park Ghats on the Boulevard .One can locate it exactly at the back of Nehru park. A beautiful Lotus Garden spread over lake water surface has been developed behind the Hotel. Abdul Aziz's Leeward  Hotel has been occupied by security forces at present  .

“ What rent Government pays? . Just 170 Rupee per day per room .75% of this amount is spent for  the maintenance of the Hotel. Jenab Many visitors would came here in good old days  just to see where Naipaul sahib stayed . They wrote comments in visitor book. ”says Abdul Aziz

Apart from being a finest travelogue , Area of Darkness also opens  Kashmir  of 1962 to the world . But Yes  a Kashmir seen only around Dal Lake or tourist places like Gulmarg , Pahalgham  , Bund , Lal Chowk , Tourist centre and Nageen lake mostly . This brilliant narrative is Surprisingly silent about other Kashmir which was throbbing with activity in Naipaul’s close vicinity .  By other kashmir i mean the  Artists ,  saints , Reshis , Artisans and  Craftsmen( engaged in Papier mache , Wood carving and handicrafts manufacturing with their gifted  hands )  , Politicians , intellectuals , Prominent Khankaahs , Ziyarats, Temples and historical buildings  of the city deserved some mention in this travelogue  .People  ( Both Muslims and Pandits ) living in Down town  areas like Zainakaal ,  Fateh Kadal ,Habba kadal , Naid kadal , Saraf Kadal, Nowhatta ,  Bohri Kadal , Zadibal , Khanyar or in the newer Colonies of that period like Karan Nagar ,Jawahir Nagar and Raj Bagh  find no mention in this Book .  Inspite of these minor  issues  which only a kashmiri reader can observe , Area of Darkness remains a brilliant narrative and makes you to travel all the places and share the events together with Sir V S Naipaul.  Area of Darkness presents Naipaul    not only as  an  innovative writer of a superior class  but  his ideas  too  are   truly creative , original  and bright.

Naipaul  again visited kashmir  in 1989 and covered the visit in his book   India :A Million Mutinies. This time the critical assessment of the land , its people and their Habits had mellowed  down considerably. In this book , Naipaul is all praise for a resurgent and developing India . He again talks about Kashmir . For him Kashmir had changed a lot . But then the explosions and first gunfires of   the two decade old trouble had begun. He mentions these incidents also   .So Long so much..I wish  Naipaul good health and happiness . 

CHINAR SHADE by Autarmota is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.
Based on a work at http:\\autarmota.blogspot.com\.