NARAN NAAG SPRING AND ANCIENT TEMPLE RUINS OF SODAR TIRTHA OR NARAN NAAG OF KASHMIR

I have again come to Ganderbal District of Kashmir.I love its picturesque valleys with Sindh stream (originating from  upper reaches of  Drass area ) flowing down to join Vitasta at Prayag or shadipora.The lofty snow clad  mountain peaks  , Alpine forests and grasslands (frequented by Gujjars and Bakerwals )are  just bewitching and serene. At one end ,this valley happens to be a gateway to LADAKH or  the land of LAMAS . The other end touches Sumbal near vitasta . Remains of  Anderkot fort are  just 2 kms away from village sumbal. Anderkot happened to be the capital of king Jayapida  grandson of king lalitaditya . Queen Kota committed suicide( in 14^th centuary ) here only inside this  fort  .

The ancient shrine of  Kheer Bhawani at village Tulamula  lies in this area only.So does the Jamia Mosque of Dodderhaama   fall in this area . This mosque is considered to be the camping  place  of  large group of Syeds from Central Asia headed by Shah e Hamdaan  on  their  Journey   to Kashmir .Ancient Sodar Tirthaa ( present day Naran Naag temple ruins  ) near Kangan also falls in this area.The sacred lakes of Kishen sar ( 3819 metres from sea level ) , Vishensar ( 4080 metres from sea level ) Gaad sar ( 3962 metres from sea level ) and Gangabal ( approx 13000 feet   from sea level ) are also located in this area only.

                                                                          

 Naran Naag  in Neelmata Purana and Rajtarangini of kalhana

Neelmata repeatedly makes mention of Bhuteshwara Teertha  or Sodar Naag or sodar Teertha . Bhuteshawara Teertha or Sodar Teertha  is the present day Naran Naag  Temple ruins  and Sodar Naag is the spring of this temple complex.That is how present day Naraan nag was called in ancient times . I have verified this fact at page 293 and 294 apart II of Neelmata  Purana  ( canto 1154 to 59 , 1160to 1162 , 1163 to 1164 and 1167 )translated by eminent Sanskrit scholar  Dr Ved kumari Ghai.  Neelmata also explains the spiritual merits of taking a bath in Sodar naag or Naran Naag as equivalent to performing Ashavmedha .

                                                                                      

 Kalhana too makes repeated mention of  Sodar Naag  or Naran Naag in  Rajtaringini . To quote Taranga I Canto 107 and 347, Taranga II canto 123 and 139 and Taranga IV canto 189 .He too calls it Bhuteshwara or Bhutesha  and Sodar Teertha . Again the spring inside this temple complex is referred to  as Sodar Naag  by him. In fact Kalhana makes it clear that this temple complex  was patronized by various kings of Kashmir . King Jaluka ( 137 BC ) erected a stone  temple at this site dedicated to shiva Bhutesha.  Kalhana adds that King jayendra ( 61 BC ) would come to worship shiva Bhutesha at this temple complex. King lalitaditya ( 713-755 AD )donated a good sum of money to this shrine after one of  his victory expeditions. King Avantivarman ( 855-883 AD ) built a stone pedestal  with silver conduit at this shrine for bathing of sacred images.Kalhan’s family was also devoted to this Teertha . His father Canpaka paid frequent visits to this shrine . Kalhana’s uncle Kanka also happened to be a frequent visitor to this shrine .  The Teertha had  a large number of Purohits who were paid  handsome salaries  from the endowments created  for the shrine .As per kalhana , the treasury of this shrine was plundered by king Sangramraja of Kashmir ( 1003-28 AD). 

                                                                       

  

Location of the  Shrine Bhuteshwara or Naran Naag  and Present Status

The shrine can be reached presently by travelling to Kangan (about 40 Kms )from Srinagar . From kangan one has to go up a trekking a distance of about 17 Kms through Alpine forests and grasslands  where Bakerwals can be seen moving with their livestock. A motorable road also is in use at present to reach this ancient shrine . Ruins of many temples can be seen and some of the structure erected in stone are still erect. . As per records and various books , there used to be about 17 temples Dedicated to Shiva Bhuteshwara , Shiva Ugresa and Bhairava built by different kings of ancient Kashmir from time to time .Some more temples appear to be hidden under thick vegetation around this complex. Water from Gangbal  lake located at an altitude of about 13000 feet from sea leval comes to this area . Sodar Naag or the water  spring still exists at this site  . This spring is an oblong rectangular structure lined with    stone slabs  with proper steps . Some Shiiva lingas carved on stones around the spring are still visible to naked eye. Kanakvahini or present day Kreink Nadi flows to the south of this temple complex of Naran Naag. Kanak Vahini or Krein Nadi is formed by two tributaries flowing out from two lakes above this tiratha known as NundKol and Gangbal.Kreink nadi finally joins Sindh stream below the Temple complex near Kangan. This place has now become the base camp for  trekking to Gangabal lake . People now take a shorter route to go to gangabal which is about 8 hour trek from Naran naag .  kashmiri pandits have been visiting this area since many centuries for performing Shradha  after immersing  the ashes  of their dead relatives  in sacred Gangabal lake  which  lies below the Harmukh mountain peak ( 17000 feet in height from sea level ).Presently also trekkers to Gangabal lake use this short route . A night stay at Naran Naag and early morning steep uphill trekking  of about 17 Kms  ( Done in 8 hours )takes you to Harmukh peak below which lies the sacred Gangbal lake .Naran Naag is otherwise a halting camp on return journey to Gangbal . The old and traditional Route to Gangabal is through Sonamarg _ Nichnai _vishensar and kishensar lakes _Gaad sar lake _ Gangbal lake and finally the  return via Narran Nag.This is a five days  trek wherein one comes across deep blue lakes with trout fish , wild flowers ,Grassy Plains and Morain ( debris  deposited by glaciers ), Steep valleys  with hanging glaciers feeding small rivers and lakes and tumbling streams pouring out of lakes .Europeans and foreigners  trekking  to Gangabal prefer this route only.A distance of about 95 Kms is covered through this trek in total upto Kangan  beginning from Sonamarg.

At Naran Naag lodges are available for night stay at Rs500/= Per room with clean beddings. Government accommodation is also available on competitive rates. So Long so much on  Naran Naag .  Wait for my Next Post  on Harmukh  and Gangbal trek. To conclude i add Some lines from a Gazal of urdu poet waseem Barelavi.

 Mujhe bujhaa de, meraa dard muKhtasar kar de.

Magar diye ki tarah mujh ko mo’atbar kar de.
Meri talaash ko be-naam-o-be-safar kar de,
Mein teraa raastaa chhoruun to dar-ba-dar kar de.