Saturday, October 31, 2009

7 KASHMIR VIEWS AND WASEEM BARELAVI






































































"There is a Huge market of spurious medicines in kashmir . Buy medicines from Dhar Medicate Dalgate , Bindroo, Aillya Medicate lal chowk ,Sajjad Medicate Naaz Cinema road and some more trusted and identified shops only "


My friends warned me when i felt sick for some days . For this post i have uploaded one view of Bindroo"s new medicine shop at Hazuri Bagh . Bindroo( A Kashmiri Pandit ) family enjoys enormous goodwill in kashmir . They do their business from two shops . One near Hanuman Temple Hari Singh High street while the other is the new shop at Hazuri Bagh just opposite Iqbal park. A view of this shop has been uploaded at SNO 4 from the top. View no 1 has been captured in lal Chowk. No 2 is the Road leading to Zeshta Devi Shrine just below Zabar Wan Hills . No 3 is the road leading to Old Chest Diseases Hospital Drogjan from Dalgate . No 5 is the Hotel Shangrila sonawar owned by Bakshi family. View no 6 and 7 relate to old BROADWAY cinema . The old building has been renovated for VODAFONE office which has already started functioning . you can still see the name plate of Broadway cinema .Enjoy these views of srinagar city with some lines from my favourite Gazal of prof waseem Barelavi with many many Salaams to Waseem Sahib .

Apney saay ko itna samjhaney Dhey
Mujh tak merey Hissey ki dhoop aaney Dhe
Baba duniya jeet ke main dikhlaa doon ga
Apni nazar sey door tu mujh ko janey Dhe
Aik nazar main kayee zamaney dekhey tu
Boorhi Aankhoon ki tasweer bananey Dhe
Faslain pak jayein tau khait sey bichrain gi
Roti aankh ko pyaar kahan samjhaney Dhe
Main bhi tau is Baagh ka Aik parindaa hoon
Meri hi awaaz main mujh ko gaane Dhe
( Prof waseem Barelavi )

ZIYARAT OF AISH MUQAAM KASHMIR






















This is the shrine of Aish Muqam. 76 kms from srinagar on Pahalgham Road . Reverse it is 20 kms from Pahalgham.The shrine is located inside a deep cave on a Hilltop. As per my rough calculations , the shrine must be about 110 metres above the main road . One has to go up through well laid out steps .My friends sukhbir singh Chib ( Sukhi ) and sudesh Sharma joined me in visiting this shrine .The Devotees coming down the staircase would say " Assalam Wallequm ". we would say "Walle Qum Assllaam ". I remenmber that devotees coming down Trikuta hills would say "Jai Matta Di" to persons going up the shrine of Vaishno Devi ( Katra Jammu ). Happy people coming down always encourage those going up. Beautiful both ways .


We stayed in the outer compound of the shrine for some time . The views below were captivating . River Lidder dancing down in a serpentine path . Hiding and emerging from clusters of green willow trees .The trees , Fresh air , Greenery and birds transport you to a different world.Groups of people from nearby villages sat in this spacious compound . Some families had also come from Anantnag and Banihal. I saw many offerring Namaaz oblivious of what was going around .

We went inside the cave .The incense burnt outside the cave as well as inside it created a pleasing ambience . Inside the cave ,the Mutwali or the Peer sahib sought peace for our ancesstors . He wished prosperity to all humans . He gave us his blessings . we were given some sacred oil in a bottle and some sugar candy grains. Visit this shrine to see How Beautifully muslims seek blessings from almighty not only for themselves but for the entire mankind( Kule Aalam) .


The shrine is actually the shrine of Seikh Zain Ud din wali a disciple of Sheikh ul Alam ( Nund reshi ).The real name of Sheikh Zain Ud Din was Zia singh and he belonged to a royal Rajput family of Kishtwar .He came to kashmir in 15th centuary to seek spritual guidance from shiekh Ul Alaam .Sheikh Zain ud din was locally known as BAB( Father in kashmiri ). Sacred Relics of BaB are preserved in the shrine .Every year in the month of April one week festival is held in the shrine on the annual URS of the saint. A Torchlight procession is held in the evenings during this festival . This torch light procession is locally known as ZOOL( Illumination ).Pieces of LESHI( Wood full of inflammable material ) wood are tied to long sticks and burnt . Once the Leshi pieces burn , even rains can not douse the flames . It is a treat to see the ZOOL festival. Young boys too are keeping this tradition alive in AishMuqam. Enjoy these views with some lines from a poem of Prof waseem Barelavi .


Mujhe Bujhaa De, Mera Dard mukhtasar kar De
Magar Diye ki Tarah Mujh ko mo’atbar kar De
Meri Talaash ko be-naam-o-be-safar kar de
Mein Teraa Raastaa chhoruun to Dar-ba-Dar kar De
judaaiiyon ki ye Raatein to kaatnee Hongee
kahaaniyon ko ko’i kaise mukhtasar kar De
( Prof. Waseem Barelavi )

Friday, October 30, 2009

TEMPLES UNDER RENOVATION IN SRINAGAR CITY
























































I am uploading views of 5 temples under renovation since last three months in kashmir . View No 1 and 2 have been captured at sathu BarBar shah and relate to Baba Dharm Dass temple. Views No 3 and 4 have been captured inside Shiva temple Rainawari ( BOAD MANDHAR ). The temple is under extensive renovation.Views No 5 and 6 relate to small Shiva temple opposiite Church on Maulana Azad Road . The temple is adjacent to Gee Enn Bakery house . One can trace it exactly opposite to S P college entrance from Maulana Azad Road. View No 7 is a small temple under construction in the compound of old temple exactly behind Hotel Shangrila Sonawar on Jhelum Banks .

" I have told the priest to pay me Rs30/=less than the prevailing market rate of a mason per day as my labour . I am happy that this temple shall be frequented by our Pandit brethern." said the mason at Baba Dharm Dass temple .

"What best building in our neighbourhood could we expect other than the Abode of God . we are all happy " said the man on the counter at Gee Enn Bakery house .

"We have to see that they finish this construction before the snowfall "said some shopkeeprs of Rainawari running their shops near old shiva temple ( Boad Mandhar )

Temple construction at Sonawar has been completed . Other temples undergoing renovation in parts or in totality in srinagar city are Hanuman Temple HS High street , Zeshta Devi Temple ( Extensive renovations ), Bhairav Temple Maisuma and Kaathlishwar Temple Zaindaar Mohalla.
I could see involvement and smiles on the faces of Muslims living around these temples .

Duniyaa Sune to Kissa e Gham Hai Bahut Taweel
Jo Tum Suno Yeh Dastaan to Muktsar Bhi Hai.


Thursday, October 29, 2009

6 RANDOM VIEWS FROM SRINAGAR CITY AND WASEEM BARELAVI









































Photo No i 1 is a residential house in Sonawar just near Hotel Shangrila.Photo No 2 is the beautiful swimming Pool of Hotel Grand Mumtaz . This is a new Chain Of Hotels owned by a srinagar Entrepreneur . The Chain has a Hotel in Gulmarg , Pahalgham , jammu and new Delhi.Hotel Grand Mumtaz srinagar is just Behind Hotel Broadway on Maulana Azad Road . One can trace it near to Hotel Nedou's which is closed at present .Photograph No 3 has been clicked in Rainawari. Photo No 4 is the Polo view chowk near erstwhile Grindlay's bank builiding .Photo No 5 has been clicked at Lambert lane Residency Road just opposite shakti sweets. The last Photograph (No 6) is the beautiful Semi circular Taj Hotel building opposite Akhaara builiding in Maisuma chowk .



Enjoy the views with some lines from a poem of Waseem Barelavi .Waseem sahib is a young professor of urdu hailing from Bareili and writes wonderful modern poetry .




Thake haare parinde jab basere ke liye lautein,

Saliiqaamand shaakhon kaa lachak jaanaa zaruurii hai .

Bahut bebaak Aankhon me ta'alluq Tik nahii paataa ,

Muhabbat me kashish rakhane ko sharmaanaa zaruurii hai .

Saliiqaa hii nahii shaayad use mahasuus karane kaa,

Jo kahataa hai Khudaa hai to nazar Aanaa zaruurii hai .

Mere honthon pe Apanii pyaas rakh do aur phir socho ,

Ki is ke baad bhii duniyaa men kuchh paanaa zaruurii hai.

( Prof . Waseem Barelavi )

AHDOO'S HOTEL SRINAGAR






























































“ I do not know How they Mix it . We use Red Label and Green Label Tea . Chicken patties , Pine apple Pastries and one set Tea . Anything else. ”

Sharma a new Waiter in the Hotel said when I asked him the trade secret of Tea Brewing in the Hotel.Sharma moved ahead to take order from another table . Perhaps I know all the Waiters of this Hotel. Three of them though old , still serve you delicious Patties , Excellently brewed Tea , Fresh Pine apple pastries , Crisp Butter Toasts and a variety of Non Vegetarian Preparations including the much relished kashmiri WAZWAAN.
This is AHDOO”s Hotel of Kashmir .Visit it to know the quality of Tea served over here. I have sought the formula of this excellently brewed tea from every waiter . One said that Red label and Green Label Tea is mixed in the ratio of 75and 25 respectively to create the Particular Flavour and taste . Another said that the ratio is 60and 40 . I tried both at my place . Failed and kept coming to the Hotel to have tea brewed magically .The tea is served in Heavy Metallic Tea sets in style by well uniformed waiters . Heavy Bone China cups , Neatly laid out Table cloths , Laundry Fresh napkin sets and the ambience inside makes you feel special. Whatever you order , you are given a cup of Chutney free. The waiters are pleased to make your cup of tea if you so desire. Hot Chicken Patties , Delicious Pine Apple Pastries , varieties of Cookies , Cakes , Black forest ,Crisp Butter Toasts , Paneer Pakoda , Kababs , Boneless Chicken Tikkas and Mutton Tikkas can be ordered with Tea. For Lunch or dinner you have a variety Vegetarian dishes including Green Haak, Nadru Yakhani and Dam Alu . The non Vegetarians can have Mutton Yakhani ( Mutton in Yoghurt ), Rogan Josh , Gushtaaba , Tabak Maaz ( Fried Meat ), Ristaa , Methi Maaz ( Methi and Mutton ), Chilli Korma , Dhaniwal Korma and Chicken . One can also order a plate of Complete WAZWAAN dishes. They serve a variety of desserts and ice creams . You can also order coffee and juices . The Hospitality inside the Hotel has to be experienced to be believed.
Initially established as a restaurant in 1920, the Hotel has undergone several changes since 1989. The ground floor is totally occupied by Bakery section and the Toilets . The first Floor is used for the Restaurants . Second and third floors have well maintained 24 deluxe rooms for the guests. It has three spacious conference halls now.The Hotel has two entrances . One from the Residency road side while the other is from the bund side. Internet , Resident doctor facility , cab hiring arrangement has also been added for the guests by the Hotel management now.

Many memories are tied to this Hotel. Late Mohan lal Aima and his artists finalized the Operational aspects of Dina Nath Naadim”s Opera “ BOMBUR TE YEMBERZAL ” over a cup of Tea in this Hotel only. Shooting sequences of first Kashmiri Movie “Menziraat ”were finalized in this Restaurant only. Some very important meetings which changed the course of Political streams in Kashmir took place in this Hotel only .Ajit , Saira Bano , Johny Walker , Jeevan, Balraj Sahni and Kabir Bedi have visited either in the Bakery or the restaurant of this Hotel. There is hardly any kashmiri writer or Artist who has not sat and gossiped with friends in the restaurant of this Hotel over a hot cup of tea. We once saw poet Nida Fazili in the hotel Lobby. M K Raina leading theatre personality of the country has been seen many times in the Hotel .A Friend of mine also informs me that he once saw Dilip Kumar (Acting legend of Indian Cinema ) in Ahdoo's hotel . I am not sure . Could be true.

I was once attached to a delegation of parliament members as their local guide by the bank. It was Perhaps 1985. Parliament members attached to me were Bal Kavi Bairaagi Congress MP from Saagar ( MP ) , Vithal Bhai Patel from Ahemdabad and Prof Samson ( If I am very correct ) from North East. They were all men of different tastes . Bal Kavi Bairagi became quite friendly. He was a poet as well. He also wrote the popular film song “ Tu Chandaa Main Chaandini , Tu Taruvar Main Shaakh Re , Tu Badal Main Bijri , Tu Panchhi Main Pyaas Re ” Bairagi ji and his wife asked me for a good cup of tea and I took them to AHDOO”s . Both relished the tea and pastries.

My friends in the bank Especially Basharat Fazili , Tej Dhar and Padroo would pool money to go to Ahdoo’s on every alternate days . Bashrat would order Patties , Pastries , Tea and end up having ice cream as well. Rinchen Bhutia ( A Management Trainee from Darjeeling who stayed in valley for more than 15 years and worked with us ). Baleshwar Taneja ( Smart officer who worked in worked in valley with us )and even our Boss and senior Manager Mohd Shahid Aftaab ( from Kanpur who worked in Valley ) fell in love with Ahdoo’s tea once we introduced them to this delicacy . shri Aftaab rose to become Executive director of Vijaya bank after being posted out of Kashmir . He never forgot Ahdoo’s .



We had devised a novel way of meeting expenses of our weekly visits to the Hotel .Our friend Padroo took up an agency from LIC in the name of his wife. Basharat Fazili and Tej Dhar would bring him business. Padroo would posibly get 35% of first year's premium as his commision from LIC. A part of it would be shared with the Policy Holder and the remaining would be spent at Ahdoo's . The new Policy Holder was brought to Ahdoo's and humoured to foot the tea bills once he signed policy papers . He was made to believe that a best bargain had been organized for him and a tea at Ahdoo's was due from the commisssion paid by Padroo .So one policy for Padroo meant two sittings at Ahdoo's . So Long so much about Ahdoo's . Enjoy the views with some lines from a poem of Dina nath Naadim in Kashmiri . Naadim sahib wrote a beautiful Poem DAL BATHISS PYAATH( ON THE BANK OF DAL LAKE ). Even while describing the natural scenes , Naadim sahib is touched by all round poverty prevailing at that time in valley.


Yimm Bunglow Chhi Aassan Vaael ,
Yihundh Duniyaa Chhu Alagh .
Hum Paharee Chhi Zakhaman Kraael ,
Yihundh Duniyaa Chhu Alagh .
Addei Aaquil addei yetti Chaarei
Tse pakh Halpaarei Lagay.
Tsetti Vaati kunni Vizi Vaarei
Tse pakh Halpaarei Lagay.
( Dina Nath Naadim )




These huge mansion owners ,
O their world inside is differrent.
Those Thatched roofed huts of poor,
Their world inside is altogether differrent.
To the dwellers of this land ,
some of whom are worldy wise
and the rest simple folks ,
I advise" O Kashmiri March on, Progress shall visit thee.
March on brother , your turn shall also come ,
O Kashmiri march on Progress shall visit thee.
( Translation from original kashmiri by A k mota )

MUMBAI VIEWS AND A POEM OF HARIVANSH RAI BACHAN
























Drigh Dekh Jahan Tak Paate hain ,
Tumm Kaa saagar Lehraata hai ,
Phir Bi Us Paar Khadaa Koi ,
Hum Sab Ko Kheench Bulaata Hai .
Mein Aaj Chalaa, Tum Aaogii,
Kal Parson Sab Sanghi Saathi .
Duniya Rotee Dhotee Rehtee,
Jisko Jaana Hai Jaata Hai .
Mera To Hotaa Mun Dag Mag,
Tutt Par Ke Hi Halqoron Se,
Jab Mein Ekaaki Pahunchungaa ,
Manjh Dhaar Na Jaane Kya Hoga .
Iss Paar Priye Madhu Hai Tum Ho
Us Paar Na Jaane Kyaa Hoga
( Hari Vansh Rai Bachan )


The Unending Dark sea roars continuously ,
Upto the last point my eyes can see .
O Heart ! who is this person across this ocean ?
calling every one to come his side .
Should I move today ,
Love! you shall too follow me .
Next all my friends and companions .
The world keeps weeping for those who cross over ,
Still this does not deter those who are on the move.
My heart palpitates , just with the soft turbulence
Near the shore only.
O Heart ! what shall befell thee,
in the midst of this dark oceanic turbulence .
Love ! thy company , wine flows this side
Who knows what lies in that distant land across.
( Translation from Hindi by A K Mota )




PS


MY SPECIAL THANKS TO ANUPAM KHER FOR VIEWING THIS BLOG AND SENDING A WORD OF ENCOURAGEMENT TO ME . ANUPAM JI I AM OBLIGED,INDEBTED AND FLOORED.HOW GREAT OF YOU TO SPARE TIME FROM YOUR BUSY SCHEDULES TO VIEW THIS BLOG PRIMARILY ON KASHMIR .
( A K Mota )

DUSK VIEWS AND A POEM OF HARIVANSH RAI BACHAN































Maati se Thaa jinhe banaaya ,
Phoolon se Thaa jinhe sajaaya ,
Khel Gharondhe chood pathon par ,
Chaley gayey Hain Bachhe Sone .
Saathi Saanjh lagi Ab Hone
Failaaya Thaa Jinhe Gagan me
Vistrit vasudha ke kan kan me
Un Kirno ko Astaachal par
Pahunch Laga hai Surya Sajone
Saathi Saanjh lagi Ab Hone .


( Hari Vansh Rai Bachan )


The tiny houses built from Mud ,
Decorated with flowers ,
Abandoning them ,
Children have left for sleeping.
Love ! Come this way, it is dusk now.

The light that the rays spread in the sky ,
The light that the rays spread in this vast Earth ,
The sun is winding up and carrying these rays
To beautify the area where it is now setting .
Love ! Come this way ,it is dusk now.
(Translation by A K mota from original Hindi )


Late Harivansh Rai Bachan needs no introduction. Born in a Kayasth family from Allahabad in 1907, he did his MA in English and joined Allahabad University as a Lecturer . His wife Shyaama Ji died of a prolonged illness in 1936.In 1942 he married Teji Kour . Bachan went to England in 1954 and did his doctorate from Cambridge university . Later he worked as a producer in All India radio New Delhi. Pandit Jawahar lal Nehru inducted him to Foreign Services as a Hindi Expert. His book MADHUSHAALA is a widely read and translated poetry book of the world .A widely traveled man , Bachan was a personal friend of Faiz Ahmed Faiz . Together they organized many Afro Asian writers conferences .His contribution changed the tone and tenor of Hindi poetry .To know Bachan the man who fought many odds single handedly , I recommend that one should read his autobiographies : Kyaa Bhuloon Kyaa Yaad Karoon and Dashdaar Se Soapaan Tak. He lived with his son Amitabh Bachan ( Living legend of Indian cinema ) in Mumbai after his retirement .I have read many poems on Dawn or arrival of first ray of sun to the world . I have also translated and put up the poem of Pandit Narendra sharma “Jyoti Kalash Chhalke ”in one of my posts. The poem is description of morning beautifully picturized on late Meena Kumari.
Bachan ji also wrote a beautiful poem “Aa Rahi Ravi Ki Savaari ”. describing the arrival of first rays of the sun to the world. For this post I have uploaded some lines from another poem of Bachan ji describing DUSK .This is a wonderful poem of Bachan Ji.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

SIX VIEWS OF KASHMIR AND A POEM OF AGHA SHAHID ALI






























These are some views captured by me on a walk along the Jhelum Bund some days back. I have already conveyed that you do not need to cross Jhelum near LAL MANDI by boats now. A foot bridge has been built over the river at this point now.The Bund is in the process of widening. You may also notice the ZERO bridge . It is closed for Vehicular traffic. Agha shahid Ali's family lives near by to this Zero bridge in Raj bagh Locality . Obviously i shall end this post with a poem of Agha shahid Ali on kashmir



Postcard from Kashmir
Listen
Kashmir shrinks into my mailbox,
my home a neat four by six inches.
I always loved neatness.
Now I hold the half-inch Himalayas in my hand.
This is home.
And this the closestI'll ever be to home.
When I return,
the colors won't be so brilliant,
the Jhelum's waters so clean,
so ultramarine.
My love so overexposed.
And my memory will be a little out of focus,
it is a giant negative,
black and white,

still undeveloped
( Agha shahid Ali )


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